MINI2 - MINI Forum - View Single Post - For anyone who has lowered their R56S ...

msh441 · May 9th, 2007, 06:00 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Impulsive (original)

msh441, are you absolutely sure that the fronts can be adjusted to within spec? If the rears need new adj. end links, for sure, then so be it. I only want to do it once and do it right for as little as possible.

Lastly, as guppy asked, will there be any issue with factory shocks/struts after lowering 1"-2"?

Well, when I had my re-allignment done, the figures showed everything on the front end was back within recommended specs. But I unfortunately don't have a "before and after" figures to compare what, if anything, exactly changed... so I can't say it's exactly the same. I will say that there is no visible camber angle on the front (positive, or negative).

With the stock shock bodies (sport or standard), that decreased amount of travel due to lowering will allow the shocks/struts to bottom under the hardest hits (just as most lowererd MINI's have done in the past, too). I believe the different valving from the Sport Suspension might help this a little as they compress at a slower rate and appear stiffer... but it can still happen if you don't watch for the potholes. So take it easy on the rough stuff.

You can avoid bottoming by going with a strut with a short shock body... but then you run the risk of the tires rubbing the fender wall if bottomed and not properly set up/adjusted (ie. if youre allowing for more travel with a smaller shock, the wheel and tire still need to go somwhere under compression, right? You may not bottom, but the tire may rub. So which is worse?).

Quote: Originally Posted by Impulsive (original)

One more reason why I'm pressing the camber issue ... Off the NAM site, someone posted "I saw three of the R56 MINI's in a garage preview for our club at our local dealer this afternoon. The mechanic told us that both the front and rear toe in and camber are adjustabe."

If he believes, assuming this applies to the 'S', both front and rear are adjustable, is there any way to confirm dropping the car 1"-2" can be done without hurting stock camber settings?

For clarification, there is a hex-head pin in the top of the strut tower that once removed, allows for a small amount of adjustment in camper op top (as reported by Grassroots Motorsports-as they intentionally added some negative camber for their autocross setup). That said, I left mine in, and again, according to the alignment machine (and the feel of the front end) it's spot on.

I don't believe the rears are adjustable without an end link replacement (I'm 99.9% sure on this one). Again, there is some visible negative camber present after lowering. It's no worse than any other spring-lowered MINI I've seen (or stock BMW, for that matter - they ALLWAYS have a good deal of negative camber in the rear). Overall, it's not a bad thing and greatly improved the handling on my car. If it bugs you, go for the springs and just get the adjustable links to dial it in the way you want. I just didn't think it was necessary, myself.

If you can get Ryephile to answer some of these questions here, or over at NAM, he may be able to give you some better numbers than I can (just search over at NAM and see where I asked a lot of these questions myself before lowering). I also posted the actual alignment measurements over there of my car once it was lowered (if you're able to interprit them-'cause it's kind of greek-to-me).

Hope this helps a little.

May 9th, 2007, 06:00 AM	#12
msh441 MINI2 Senior Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Pacific NW Local Time: 03:45 PM Posts: 439 Offline	Quote: Originally Posted by Impulsive (original) msh441, are you absolutely sure that the fronts can be adjusted to within spec? If the rears need new adj. end links, for sure, then so be it. I only want to do it once and do it right for as little as possible. Lastly, as guppy asked, will there be any issue with factory shocks/struts after lowering 1"-2"? Well, when I had my re-allignment done, the figures showed everything on the front end was back within recommended specs. But I unfortunately don't have a "before and after" figures to compare what, if anything, exactly changed... so I can't say it's exactly the same. I will say that there is no visible camber angle on the front (positive, or negative). With the stock shock bodies (sport or standard), that decreased amount of travel due to lowering will allow the shocks/struts to bottom under the hardest hits (just as most lowererd MINI's have done in the past, too). I believe the different valving from the Sport Suspension might help this a little as they compress at a slower rate and appear stiffer... but it can still happen if you don't watch for the potholes. So take it easy on the rough stuff. You can avoid bottoming by going with a strut with a short shock body... but then you run the risk of the tires rubbing the fender wall if bottomed and not properly set up/adjusted (ie. if youre allowing for more travel with a smaller shock, the wheel and tire still need to go somwhere under compression, right? You may not bottom, but the tire may rub. So which is worse?). Quote: Originally Posted by Impulsive (original) One more reason why I'm pressing the camber issue ... Off the NAM site, someone posted "I saw three of the R56 MINI's in a garage preview for our club at our local dealer this afternoon. The mechanic told us that both the front and rear toe in and camber are adjustabe." If he believes, assuming this applies to the 'S', both front and rear are adjustable, is there any way to confirm dropping the car 1"-2" can be done without hurting stock camber settings? For clarification, there is a hex-head pin in the top of the strut tower that once removed, allows for a small amount of adjustment in camper op top (as reported by Grassroots Motorsports-as they intentionally added some negative camber for their autocross setup). That said, I left mine in, and again, according to the alignment machine (and the feel of the front end) it's spot on. I don't believe the rears are adjustable without an end link replacement (I'm 99.9% sure on this one). Again, there is some visible negative camber present after lowering. It's no worse than any other spring-lowered MINI I've seen (or stock BMW, for that matter - they ALLWAYS have a good deal of negative camber in the rear). Overall, it's not a bad thing and greatly improved the handling on my car. If it bugs you, go for the springs and just get the adjustable links to dial it in the way you want. I just didn't think it was necessary, myself. If you can get Ryephile to answer some of these questions here, or over at NAM, he may be able to give you some better numbers than I can (just search over at NAM and see where I asked a lot of these questions myself before lowering). I also posted the actual alignment measurements over there of my car once it was lowered (if you're able to interprit them-'cause it's kind of greek-to-me). Hope this helps a little. Founding member of R56 Anonymous: "Hello. My name is Mike. I'm a driving enthusiast... and I still like the R56"