MINI2 - MINI Forum - View Single Post - New rear disks and pads binding

Joy_MCS · Nov 22nd, 2007, 06:16 PM

Hi,

My R53 MCS (21,000 miles) recently failed the MOT with rear disk corrosion, so I had new disks and pads fitted by a main dealer (who I had taken the car to for the MOT). They used standard OEM parts, which I have checked as correct according to my sales ivoice. After this I noticed my rear wheels were getting very dirty very quickly, and they sounded to binding at low speed. I jacked the car up and could hardly turn the rear's whereas I could easily spin the fronts for 1 to 2 turns. I assumed that this was something to do with the fitting of the new disks and pads and took it back to the dealer - this was 300 miles after the disks and pads were changed (I assumed initially that the noise was bedding in or something, as they had been fitted by a main dealer). I had to pay to have them inspected (although only a tenner as I kicked up a fuss) and the diagnosis was a siezed offside rear caliper. I argued with the dealer and said that I thought this was a strange coincidence given that the disks and pads had just been changed, and that my perception was that the two events were linked (maybe the seal had been damaged when pushed back in). They didn't agree, but BMW agreed to pay for the caliper if I paid for the labour (out of warranty). I still don't understand why both were binding if only one caliper had siezed.
Anyway, I had the caliper changed and still found the rear's to be binding, although perhaps not as bad as before. I slackened the handbrake cable off but this didn't help.
I went back to the dealer and after the car was checked I was told that this is perfectly normal - all they have done is slacken the handbrake cable adjuster so I now have 3-4 clicks rather than 2. I was also told that when I jack the car up, the dangling wheel causes the handbrake to apply slightly, hence why it seems to bind. Is this true, and if so can that cause a problem on the road?
Basically I am still not convinced that the seized caliper is unrelated to changing the disks and pads, and am also sceptical about the binding I'm left with. BTW, I kept the caliper but haven't had a propper look yet (i.e. with the piston out). Does anybody have any suggestions?

Cheers

Nov 22nd, 2007, 06:16 PM	#1
Joy_MCS MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Nov 2007 Local Time: 02:22 AM Posts: 7 Offline	New rear disks and pads binding - is this normal? Hi, My R53 MCS (21,000 miles) recently failed the MOT with rear disk corrosion, so I had new disks and pads fitted by a main dealer (who I had taken the car to for the MOT). They used standard OEM parts, which I have checked as correct according to my sales ivoice. After this I noticed my rear wheels were getting very dirty very quickly, and they sounded to binding at low speed. I jacked the car up and could hardly turn the rear's whereas I could easily spin the fronts for 1 to 2 turns. I assumed that this was something to do with the fitting of the new disks and pads and took it back to the dealer - this was 300 miles after the disks and pads were changed (I assumed initially that the noise was bedding in or something, as they had been fitted by a main dealer). I had to pay to have them inspected (although only a tenner as I kicked up a fuss) and the diagnosis was a siezed offside rear caliper. I argued with the dealer and said that I thought this was a strange coincidence given that the disks and pads had just been changed, and that my perception was that the two events were linked (maybe the seal had been damaged when pushed back in). They didn't agree, but BMW agreed to pay for the caliper if I paid for the labour (out of warranty). I still don't understand why both were binding if only one caliper had siezed. Anyway, I had the caliper changed and still found the rear's to be binding, although perhaps not as bad as before. I slackened the handbrake cable off but this didn't help. I went back to the dealer and after the car was checked I was told that this is perfectly normal - all they have done is slacken the handbrake cable adjuster so I now have 3-4 clicks rather than 2. I was also told that when I jack the car up, the dangling wheel causes the handbrake to apply slightly, hence why it seems to bind. Is this true, and if so can that cause a problem on the road? Basically I am still not convinced that the seized caliper is unrelated to changing the disks and pads, and am also sceptical about the binding I'm left with. BTW, I kept the caliper but haven't had a propper look yet (i.e. with the piston out). Does anybody have any suggestions? Cheers