MINI2 - MINI Forum - View Single Post

punkeyfunky · Oct 10th, 2003, 07:22 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by nonsequitur

Someone in another thread said today that they were trying to "find 35bhp" for the Cooper CVT. They approached the math by subtracted the stock 115bhp from the CVT-rated 150bhp = 35. I like this concept and thought process.

What components are the most effective way to do this 35bhp?

I'm the guy that wants to 'find' the 35bhp.

Whilst I want more grunt, I don't want to go too far yet; that is, I know that I can get away with certain mods, but I don't want to upset my dealer too much as I'd rather keep the TLC/warranty in tact.

I'll be looking at making my MC CVT breathe better, that is more air in, and more air out (induction kit and cat back exhaust). After hearing good things here on MINI2 I'll most likely got for the Pipercross induction kit and a PlayMINI exhaust (UK based, but I'm sure they'll ship to the USA - www.playmini2.co.uk). More in = More out (most of the time!)

I suspect that with more air coming in on the induction side, the ECU will notice the mixture getting weaker, and simply pump in more gas. This should work to a point, and I don't think I'll need to go over and above what the factory ECU fuel map provides - time will tell.

I might well change the wires to help improve the HT side, as well as some other plugs (I'd favour HKS, if they do a plug in the appropriate range, S35i's might be too cold)

I'm not really a huge fan of ECU remaps; the cost involved for such a small power increase is excessive. My Supra's running at 350+bhp on the standard ECU map.
Many manufacturers (say, Ford) use one basic lump to power an entire range of cars; as such, the ECU maps are flexible and allow for tuning/detuning as required. The MINI's engine only really powers the One and the Cooper (forget the MCS in this context, as it's not normally aspirated). So, I'd argue that the standard Cooper ECU map will be already at the best settings, and an aftermarket remap may well detune the engine. I'll only start looking at ECU remapping when I can do it myself, with the laptop in the passenger seat.

I think thats about as far as I can go before I upset the dealer.

Other things I've considered, that are either more pricey or a warranty-voider are:
- gas flow the head, smooth out the insides for better breathing
- lighten the bottom end
- mess about with different cam profiles
- buy a full 'race' system, with sports CAT (gotta meet those emissions regs)
- start losing weight anywhere and everywhere (esp. unsprung mass)

Of course, the CVT is controlled by electronics somewhere - that's something I'd like to play with.

In the long run, I think that the induction kit & exhaust will provide the best 'bang for the buck'. I'm not going to worry about wringing every last ounce of power out of my car as I still want it to be reliable, used for commuting etc. Of course, as power increases, the engine's longevity decreases. Conversely, less power = more life; look at classic VW bugs - low power, low stress engines that go forever.

The only way to do a "real" test on any power gain is to do a dyno run before and after the mods. No idea where I can get the car dyno'd, so that might not happen.
I'll just have to go on feelings/impressions (and stay subjective to avoid the placebo effect) and maybe try and outdrag another standard MC CVT.

I know I've made lots of generalisations and assumptions, so others thoughts are invited

Lee

Oct 10th, 2003, 07:22 AM	#5
punkeyfunky UberGeek Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Milton Keynes Local Time: 07:05 PM Posts: 862 Offline	Quote: Originally Posted by nonsequitur Someone in another thread said today that they were trying to "find 35bhp" for the Cooper CVT. They approached the math by subtracted the stock 115bhp from the CVT-rated 150bhp = 35. I like this concept and thought process. What components are the most effective way to do this 35bhp? I'm the guy that wants to 'find' the 35bhp. Whilst I want more grunt, I don't want to go too far yet; that is, I know that I can get away with certain mods, but I don't want to upset my dealer too much as I'd rather keep the TLC/warranty in tact. I'll be looking at making my MC CVT breathe better, that is more air in, and more air out (induction kit and cat back exhaust). After hearing good things here on MINI2 I'll most likely got for the Pipercross induction kit and a PlayMINI exhaust (UK based, but I'm sure they'll ship to the USA - www.playmini2.co.uk). More in = More out (most of the time!) I suspect that with more air coming in on the induction side, the ECU will notice the mixture getting weaker, and simply pump in more gas. This should work to a point, and I don't think I'll need to go over and above what the factory ECU fuel map provides - time will tell. I might well change the wires to help improve the HT side, as well as some other plugs (I'd favour HKS, if they do a plug in the appropriate range, S35i's might be too cold) I'm not really a huge fan of ECU remaps; the cost involved for such a small power increase is excessive. My Supra's running at 350+bhp on the standard ECU map. Many manufacturers (say, Ford) use one basic lump to power an entire range of cars; as such, the ECU maps are flexible and allow for tuning/detuning as required. The MINI's engine only really powers the One and the Cooper (forget the MCS in this context, as it's not normally aspirated). So, I'd argue that the standard Cooper ECU map will be already at the best settings, and an aftermarket remap may well detune the engine. I'll only start looking at ECU remapping when I can do it myself, with the laptop in the passenger seat. I think thats about as far as I can go before I upset the dealer. Other things I've considered, that are either more pricey or a warranty-voider are: - gas flow the head, smooth out the insides for better breathing - lighten the bottom end - mess about with different cam profiles - buy a full 'race' system, with sports CAT (gotta meet those emissions regs) - start losing weight anywhere and everywhere (esp. unsprung mass) Of course, the CVT is controlled by electronics somewhere - that's something I'd like to play with. In the long run, I think that the induction kit & exhaust will provide the best 'bang for the buck'. I'm not going to worry about wringing every last ounce of power out of my car as I still want it to be reliable, used for commuting etc. Of course, as power increases, the engine's longevity decreases. Conversely, less power = more life; look at classic VW bugs - low power, low stress engines that go forever. The only way to do a "real" test on any power gain is to do a dyno run before and after the mods. No idea where I can get the car dyno'd, so that might not happen. I'll just have to go on feelings/impressions (and stay subjective to avoid the placebo effect) and maybe try and outdrag another standard MC CVT. I know I've made lots of generalisations and assumptions, so others thoughts are invited Lee