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Old Jun 19th, 2004, 09:14 PM
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BluMiniMe
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Naples Italy
Posts: 33
Local Time: 10:48 AM
Italy
Quote: Originally Posted by obehave
Why not use a potentiometer and dial it in?

Yes, exactly Ob. I found that with a pot resistor on my 2000 Dodge I could dial in how much temp offset I wished-- turned it off in winter, and turned it up in the summer. Using a multi-meter connected to the IAT, and probe thermometer in the manifold, one could generally plot temps to resistance, and find a resistance value that will have the IAT sending a value 10, 20, 30 degrees lower than actual.

Small/subtile detonation will not hurt anything as long as it is not allowed to occur often, or allowed to continue long-- hence my question about the knock sensor. Good to know its there to prevent knocking.

My overall goal here is to tame the fuel dump that occurs above 5k RPM with my 19% pulley while running my factory ECU. Manufacturers always build in a little fluff as a safety precaution. I'm thinking that I can take advantage of that?

I'm hoping someone has played around with this and can share their findings.

'03 IB/W MCS 19%, MTH, 380cc injectors, Typhoon, Borla Race, OBX Header, Pilo coil, Ryephix #2, DIY Snoot port, H-Sport Springs & Arms, 19mm Swaybar, Catch Can, Alta SS, Alta Pod w/boost & A/F, 35% Tint, DIY Blue Dash lights, Focal speakers
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