Hi all

I wonder if you could help me out here. I've started to replace my OEM pulleys with Alta replacements (15% s/c and +2% crank), and I don't have a haynes manual! If you guys could help answer these questions it would be much appreciated...

1. How do I pin/lock the flywheel?
2. What direction is the thread of the 15mm crank pulley bolt, left/right hand?
3. How much heat can I use on these pulleys to remove them? I don't want to damage any seals.
4. Does anybody have a picture of the BMW tooling used to remove the crank pulley? Or if you're reading this Roland, would you mind showing me a picture of yours? I promise not to tell anyone what it looks like :o)

Unless I crack this tomorrow, i'll be driving to work next week in a Toyota Corolla 1.3 GS, please don't let this happen to me!!

Lister

Nevermind. I've found most of what I need to know here...

http://www.mini2.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-tuning/146558-lightened-crank-pulley.html

LOL

I feel for you chap!

Hope you manage to get it sorted!

i did a serach on here for how to remove the pulley did it myself was a long ish job but very managable. All i used to remove the existing pulley was a set of pulley draws. They only just to say fitted but i had to keep moving them on to various places as the pulley did bend and become mangled but it came off no problems!

Me too, Richard!! :o)

Unfortunately, I didn't manage to get the crank pulley off so my Mini is still on axel stands on the drive.

Supercharger pulley is off now and new one fitted, I used the Alta pulley clamp and made my own pulley puller from a flat piece of steel and a large nut and bolt, it's very effective, I didn't damage the original pulley at all.

Now i'm just a little stuck with the crank pulley. I have a large crows foot pulley puller which I think will work, however, the M6 bolts I am using with the puller are too weak and the heads keep snapping off :o( To be honest, this is driving me nuts, but I know I will feel good when it's all finished.

Philly c, did you use a 3 legged puller on the crank pulley? I have that type of puller but I don't know if I want to risk damaging the crank.

Fitted my GTT 3% crank pulley on Saturday. The puller used was the BMW tool, luckily I could get hold of it through a ex-BMW service tech that has opened his own garage and still has contacts to loan tools. I was surprised at how much force needed to be applied to pull the pulley off the crank. No wonder you are struggling. Would not like to have attempted the job without the correct tool. Sounded as if something was breaking as the pulley started to move - a few loud clacking noises. Will post a full review later. Good luck, can imagine it is driving you nuts!!

There are oil seals behind both pulleys so be wary of heat.

Says the man who loves to wield a blow torch ;) :rolleyes: LOL

Hope you get it off...The difference will be hugely grin inducing when its running. I can't wait for my GTT crank :D

Running an 04 MCS 210JCW. The GTT 3% CP is a must have!! With the right puller no heat is required to remove the pulley and luckily the blow torch is wielded on the GTT sleeve away from the engine. 200 deg C is quite a lot to heat it up to but the heat is conducted onto the crank upon installation - I followed this up by quickly applying wet rags to the area. Wonder how much heat the crank seal can take before getting damaged? When are you getting yours Richard? What mods are you running, had a quick glance at your profile and could not see it. I also installed the GTT hybrid airfilter and tensioner stop recently. Review to follow when I get time.

Thanks for the advice guys. Would be nice to have the right tool. I'm still trying to find some bolts long and strong enough to use with my puller.

Look forward to your review BlueMax.

The above information regarding keeping the crank from moving is inaccurate. I tried everything mentioned and the crank still moved. The pulley bolt would not even budge when an impact wrench was used on it.

Surely someone has a more thorough and accurate DIY instruction guide they could share.

Unless your changing for a ATI/BMW damper i wouldn't change it. We lock the crank with a spectial tool from BMW.