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| Australia For Australian social and region specific discussion |
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| Hi All, For those interested, the Australian Motorkhana Championship is on at Oran Park 23-24 October. Entry forms & supp regs should be available at www.miniclub.com.au If you want to enter & can't find them, let me know I can send a copy I've entered hope to see some more MINI's there! Craig |
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| hate to be the one but...... -How much inc. install -Is it a JCW or custom job? -Do you know the added weight? -How come you wanted it RTA registered, was that basically to drive it on the roads or is rego needed for some events? Nick |
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| I will leave install costs up to robbo. Mods are as per Robbo's Sig, basically Hartge kit and others. RTA rego means you can happily drive to club days, practice days and do road targas without having to tow. Just means that even in the short trip up to the shop to buy milk and bread your insured....... Stay tuned for info on the JCW Roll Cage..... .... ... ..... 2002 BRG MCS with more mods than can remember The thieves choice in race cars ![]() 2005 BEP MCS stock standard and staying that way |
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| Hi, The cost is around the $6k mark. That includes everything. I hand them the car, they work out how to pull everything apart, fabricate and fit the roll cage, put all the body work back together, get an engineers certificate etc etc I could have got one much cheaper from Bond's for around $2 - 2.5K, but that would have been a basic 6 point only, not RTA legal, and I would have had to disassemble all the car myself, and then put it back in again once the cage was in Also, that would have been constructed from a heavier material.I did consider the JCW roll cage, which is a nice cheap and simple option. This has some advantages, as it can be fitted without cutting or removing the dash etc. However, it is a basic 6 point design, and doesn't really help with structural rigidity as much due to the fact it is bolt in and the position of the mounting points. Seeing as I was certain that the cage was going to be a permanent fitting, I decided to go the whole hog My cage is a custom design, with additional cross bars, taxi bar, gussetting etc for extra strength and rigidity. The cage has been designed so that the front and rear mounting points are close to or are attached to the strut towers, to add rigidity. In effect the cage acts like one huge strut / sway bar Also, a major concern was the fact that in the categories I want to compete in in rallies, you need all door trims, roof lining etc intact, so the cage had to be designed around this.I don't know the added weight. However, I doubt it would be much more than the weight I have saved by changing the front seats, and taking out the rear seats. I wanted RTA registration for the reasons Stu said. I can drive the car to and from track days, drive on mini club days etc, without needing to tow the car. I don't use the car as a daily driver, but if my other car is off the road for whatever reason, I can drive it. Also for tarmac rallies such as East Coast Targa and Targa Tasmania your car needs to be road registered. Cheers Robbo Mods: GO MADDIE and SPARKY! |
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| Officially Greenstuff is a street pad only which is designed to reduce brake dust. So its temp range is i believe the same or a fraction lower than the factory dust makers. Greenstuff is rated to 450deg Redstuff to 600 and yellow/black to 800 and blues up to 900deg c The green stuff will fall apart if they are allowed to get over 450deg c and will create hotspots on your discs if you do not do a cool down lap or so with limited braking. Plus if your running standard rotors with greenstuff they will not be able to VOID the heat properly as the Factory pads stay cooler due to there high Carbon compound. The kevlar/copper in the green stuff holds the heat far longer. Plus as was mentioned by Robbo and Stu, braking hard and late is the best thing to do. then get off them and let them cool for the next application. if your a long braker you will hold your heat to long and then when cooling the disc will warp. Good discs will either create small cracks in them in a star formation from the center out or will not have any side affects. A standard or poor quality disc will warp as they where never designed to hold heat over an extended period of time. Hope thats of help Swamos |
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| Excellent post.. Cheers ![]() I really am easier on brakes than most of the people I drive with. If 6 mini's drive down the same mountain, at roughly the same speed, and only 1 ends up with warped disks, then there is a problem. Once at the bottom of the hill, I ease off and completely stop using the brakes for 5 k or so. If that isn't enough, then they are not much use to me. From what you've said it sounds as though they might be alright with ebc disks. They definately don't work with the factory ones. ![]() Sounds like they I'll get the disks machined again if they have enough meat in them and put the factory pads back on Another 2 hours gone... might do an oil change at the same time... |
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| Unless you have bought them already i would warn you away from the EBC rotors as well. DBA 542KP are the best thing for the price at the moment.. EBC rotors are very noisy things... and from my experience crack to much. Just be carefull if you go the EBC rotors. |
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| Got the Galfer pads sitting on my desk. $355 delivered to my door. Just gotta swap out the "red stuff" crap and change my brake fluid to be ready for Oran Park on Saturday. I can advise with 100% confidence that the Galfer pad / DBA rotor combination works really well even under track conditions Pricey though BMW E36 M3R Alpine White - Engine : 6 cylinder; DOHC 24 valve Capacity : 2990cc Power : 243KW @ 7000 rpm Torque : 323NM @ 3900rpm Produced : Jan - May 1995 How many :15 ONLY |
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AMG have one set of Alta Big Brakes left for anybody looking for real stopping power - $3500.00. They were over $4k when I bought them. No regrets, they have been excellent on both track and road in all conditions. I will be keeping mine for our next MINI and replacing them with the originals on JCWMCS. |
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