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| Hi, I think once you have used "goo" it does cause problems in repairing a tyre. If you have a slow leak, eg a nail or something similar, and are within reasonable distance of home, you would be better pumping to tyre up, driving again until the light comes on, then pumping up again etc. At least that way the tyre can be fixed. Cheers Robbo Mods: GO MADDIE and SPARKY! |
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| Yeah agree Robbo. For a slow leak driving to your local tyre outlet would be a far better option that using the goo. As I said, hopefully I'll never need to use this goo. Although, it is worth noting that the instructions for the Slime say it will last up to two years, implying that all will be right with the world once your tyre has been sealed. But I don't really trust that theory too much. I'd only ever use the goo in the instance of severly punctured tyre with no garage in sight. Like out the back of Thredbo for instance. *Touch wood* ![]() Also, after Eden when some bozos had let our tyres down completely it would have been great to have had a portable air compressor handy. That way we could have at least had some of the tyres pumped up before the NRMA guy arrived! |
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| Yeah, like he said I did remember seeing another product that you actually put into a tyre before you get a puncture, ie as soon as you get a new tyre, so that when you do get a puncture, it seals it without you having to do anything. The bottle said something like it would not have any impact on the tyre compound and could remain in the tyre for the life of the tyre. They also claimed that it helped to balance the tyre as it remained liquid until it came in contact with atmospheric air. Not sure that I believe this though - it could just as easily unbalance the tyre but hey, I'm no tyre expert. Oh and I got mine for $35 as they hadn't programmed in the bar code when I got mine so they just plucked a figure out of the air. Terribly nice of them I thought. I'd say that's more like asking for it big time Cheers Andrew Jan 06 MCS Checkmate |
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| I've spoken to a bloke who sells that kind of stuff for motorbike tyres and he reckoned it had no adverse effect on the balance or performance of the tyres. It was pretty expensive stuff though. I guess every time I ride my bike I'm tempting fate as I haven't carrried a spare ever! Have most of you guys ditched the run flats? If so is it because they are expensive or not up to the job? Tux |
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| Both. While I took some convincing, in the end it was pretty hard to justify $300+ per tyre for the runflats when really good performance tyres are around $200. The difference in grip between the runflats and my new tyres is a lot more noticeable than I initially thought it would be. Jan 06 MCS Checkmate |
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| I rang round Canberra tyre places in December and the cheapest I could find the OEM runflats for was $275 and that was H rated Dunlop 3000A DSST's. The proper V rated Dunlop’s were $300 while the Goodyear NCT 5's in the V rated were more expensive again. I got my Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3's (W rated) for $195 and so far they have been great. I got 45,000 from my NCT 5 runflats and they still had a bit left on them but from what others have said, that seems to be unusual - must be cause I drive like a nanna Jan 06 MCS Checkmate |
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