| Tags: bolt, changing, stuck, wheel |
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| | #1 |
| Formerly known as MiniVee Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Calgary Local Time: 12:06 PM
Posts: 1,318
Offline | Changing my wheel, bolt wouldn't budge So I finally get around to changing over to my winter tires tonight. All goes well with the first 3, until I get to the right front wheel. One of the bolts is STUCK. Badly. And it is the lock bolt. After a LOT of grunting and sweating, and with a 1" drive I happened to have, I was finally able to get it to start budging. It was stiff the whole way out. Once I got the bolt out, I inspected the threads, suspecting the shop may have cross threaded it, but it appeared fine. It did have a bit more rust on it than the others though. I ran one of the other bolts through the hole a couple of times to see if that would clear it out, with only limited success. I had to work to get a bolt back in there again. Should I be worried? Is there something I can do to loosen it up a bit so I don't have this same problem again? Is my lock bolt now toast due to "stretching"? ![]() www.MINICalgary.com |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| May '08: Bye bye Mini2... Join Date: May 2004 Location: Kernow, near England Local Time: 07:06 PM
Posts: 4,512
Offline | That's an odd one. If the thread appears okay, my instinct would be to remove the bolt and put some copper grease on it and re-insert. Tigger. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| I'm avin 'oops | what is happening is the surfaces are bonding the grease will help also maybe spray some pentrating fluid (WD40) onto it, leave for a while then insert / extract a few times then add the grease ![]() More Air + More Fuel = More Power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Obsessive Not Compulsive Join Date: May 2004 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Local Time: 12:06 PM
Posts: 396
Offline | A number of my wheel bolts were the stickiest they have ever been, when changing to winter wheels a couple of weeks ago. Seems unusual as I did not drive the car any differently or longer distance this past summer. They did appear to have more visible rust than ever before. I sprayed them all with WD40 and popped them back in, hopefully next spring they will come out a little easier. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| I'm avin 'oops | erm WD40 is an oil hence it is also called pentrating fluid However, I would not use just that on a set of bolts that may seize unless I was regularly going to undo and re set. Copper Slip grease would be better hence the reason I said both earlier ![]() More Air + More Fuel = More Power!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| I miss my MINI | WD-40 does contain oil (light mineral oil) and can be used as a light lubricant (mostly marketing) but I would never recommend it to use on anything other than rusty door hinges. The primary ingredients in WD40 is solvent based, hence the word penetrating. This is what allows the oil to get in. It can damage paint (clear coat damage is questionable as the WEB site claims to clean tar off of a car. I personally wouldn't do it.) and does not do well under high heat conditions. The best way to clean the lugs is to pull them, use a steel brush to clean them and then apply the copper paste. WD40 has a job, just not in the lug department.\ This wasn't a ding on you, just a ding on the product. I don't like WD40 as it is used WAAAAYYYY to much and when not needed. ![]() Global Moderator ![]() |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Back in a MINI Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Hampshire Local Time: 07:06 PM
Posts: 15,028
Offline | WD = Water Dispersant The company have marketed WD40 as an oil (wrongly IMO), but its main job is to disperse water. Its great for distributor caps on classic Minis on damp mornings though, but shouldn't be used to lubricate metal on metal contact ![]() ![]() |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Shizzak ma blizzak? Join Date: Nov 2005 Local Time: 12:06 PM
Posts: 414
Offline | Correct, and the 40 is because it was the 40th formulation that finally worked! Vee, I wouldn't be worried too much if the threads looked fine. The stock lock bolts are crap. I got rid of mine long ago. |
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