[ontheroadagain]

Good points. Well, I never had any issues with my '04 CVT but I did trade her in, last May, just shy of 50k miles- for another CVT, this time an '06 which now has about 21,000 miles on her. Honestly, I wish I'd kept the '04 because chances are she'd be at about 70 plus now and fine.

Hope we'll hear from more of the original CVTers.

[minitoo]

Only 18000 miles in over four years now. I hate having no road or anywhere to go here...what a waste of a great little car. CVT is still original software (car has never been to a dealer for anything) and works incredibly well. I generally start out in SD or manual mode for fun (D is a bit slow) and slip over to D once up to speed. Average 32 mpg on every tank (calculated and the computer is always within .3) and if the road is at all wet the car will spin it's tires (195/60-15) starting out and at the 1-2 flick and shifts instantly on the manual up or down shifts. Maybe it has learned the way I like it but it has been a fantastic piece of engineering so far. I do have an R-Speed exhaust which did seem to help out with the low end torque. I will have to try to get some CVT oil up here some day to change out . Car is a 2/03 build and the only failure has been the HK amp. Did I say I like this car? Now where is the wood to beat upon.....

[Vanwall]

Bought in June '02, and just over 108,000 on her now. No real problems with the CVT, touch wood. Have a Remus exhaust and a ProMini intake that have added a little pep, but mostly it added a little grunt in the midrange. Not really fast off the line as we all know, but still very fun to Manual. Just recently went to Konig 15-inch Rewinds with Kumhos that I got at a Mazda speed shop, and the ride is improved considerably, altho not as quick on the turn in. One thing I noticed is how eerily efficient the CVT is two ways - in cruise-control, it's just so damn smooth with no stepping up and down to mar that - just plain eerie; and even tho I've added those engine mods, at freeway cruise speeds in 'D' it's always at the same RPM for a given speed as it was before the mods - just keeping the fuel mileage at optimum for me, I guess.

We just got back from our latest Border-to-Border-in-no-Particular-Order run up to Seattle and back, and had huge fun on Hwy 1 and the Oregon backroads. The paint is getting chipped up front pretty good, so I know it's well used. ;-) That all being said, I've come to the conclusion that the Cooper, and especially the CVT, is more of a one-person hoss, and riding two-up makes a considerable difference in the performance envelope. That's OK with me, as I spend a lot of time alone in Brooksie - wifey works in the opposite direction from me.

Only real problem is with the engine electronics, but not a serious one per se, just annoying. The check engine light comes on and the then limp mode happens a little too frequently, for no real reason that's apparent - I've had it in a few times to re-set it, and it seems to lead invariably to non-engine related charges, so I usually wait a day or so, or even only a few hours, and it re-sets itself - I had a word with a BMW service rep about this when we had our 325it in for service and he specifically mentioned the self-resetting aspect as very common, and they usually don't even charge for that - interesting MINI hasn't taken up this practice. I think it just gets to hot for the electronics under the bonnet and they get a little wacky.

All in all, still great fun, and I expect to motor on a considerable amount more.

BCNU,
Rob in Dago.

[Aurel]

only put 4300 miles on it since the last post ... still ok!

[JEFF10049]

Update I posted around 30K with no problems. Were now at 54k and no problems at all with the CVT. I am now doing my own cvt services every 15k I started sending out oil sample's after the dealer service at 30k and at 15k after the service they (TEXACO/chevron, Caterpillar, and Shaffer's) said the oil was starting to break down and become no good. So for our driving habits every 15k is when we need to service. Wish I had not went 30k on the first service now!

Also the castrol oil in the engine does not in any way last the 10k recommend service for us. Mostly highway driving around 300 miles per week so if your not sure how far to go on services send off some samples for analysis and see where your at. The castrol oil is shot at 5,000 miles in our mini it is no longer able to keep the important additives in suspension. And showing a high level or wear metals NOT GOOD! Tests were done by Texaco/Chevron, Caterpillar, and Shaffer's all showing very close to the same.
Shaffer's oil last for 7,500 in our mini and is in better shape than castrol at 5,000 mi. And no I don't work for Shaffer's I'm not a dealer or anything but they were doing oil analysis for me and asked me to try there oil so I did and I'm happy with it engine is much quieter thats got to be a good thing.
I have read a lot of arguments about how long between services to go on here but never anybody sending off samples to back there BS.
Jeff

[Sejanus]

Thanks for checking in folks. Jeff you're making me nervous since my driving pattern sounds a lot like yours and I've just been going with the standard service checks. Minitoo you gotta get out more!

[nonsequitur]

Thank you Sejanus; for being persistent and careful with this subject.

67,000 miles now. No mods, except wheels/tires and the visual-only exhaust extension. Our car continues to perform in all the ways we use it: daily driver in a congested commute, grocery runner, weekend exploring, regional business trips (weekly now), autocross, and track days. Each is very different demands and stresses.

No problems, except...

AM radio. Reception has become horrible, unusable at times, with strong interference (or more likely, a weak signal to the radio itself). MINI replaced the radio so it is new, replaced the entire wiring harness (that early issue with some cars), replaced the cables to the aerial and other components, and took the entire system out of the car (all components) to exercise the connections and confirm that everything was installed. "Work" seems to have an effect, but then it falls back to terrible. They've thrown their hands up several times, and just blamed AM generally as bad. As an old US Army Signal Corps guy, this bothers me because it must be fixable; it is either bad equipment, bad signal strength or bad grounding. MINI specifically went through the car and swears that grounding is not the issue. The radio is actually new. OK, that leaves signal so I am having the aerial replaced next. I enjoy NPR and my local jazz stations on FM, or a CD built from our collection, so this has been a project versus a crisis.

Vinyl seats. We're getting stress wear on the driver's seat in two places.

Vanwall's comment on the Cruise Control deserves some support. Spot on, Rob! On road performance is perhaps the best of any system we've owned. It is wonderfully smooth, which converts directly to comfort and fuel mileage. The round trip to Portland (about 400 miles) nearly every week now provides an opportunity to explore this subject. The CVT is what makes this work so well, a neat package. I've even reached my peace with the buttons.

And then for those who have followed us in this very early car through the threads of MINI2, we continue to track the car in car club events around the region. This activity does introduce wear on brakes, but there have been no problems that I can trace to heat or stress. We get the highest lowest gas mileage of anybody around us, about 11mpg typically.

I've become a serious fan of the MINI in the rain, on the track. With DSC off, CVT in Manual, the clutch-coupled gearbox can be driven Very Effectively in the corners and it is huge fun. The car can be throttle-steered, making small directional adjustments more precise than anyone's "automatic". Switching to SD on exit permits that phrase "turbine smooth acceleration" to apply in these low-grip conditions with full throttle, not advised in those other cars out there. Equalized! Car and Driver very clearly show in the rain.

We using purposed tires on purposed wheels. The commute and daily trips use the very light 5.5x15" 7-hole with Continentals package (26lbs, great wear but hard), autocross and track days are more fun on 6.5x16" wheels with Falkan Azenis (32lbs; wonderful predictable grip), and we got another set of 15" 7-hole wheels to mount Dunlop directional snow tires (30lbs; the MINI becomes a tractor). Wheel changes are easy on the MINI and we're enjoying having the right "shoes" for the job at hand.

The MINI still shines, with little real "competition" by small, nimble cars from other manufacturers - yet. I think BMW Group did a good job! Ours continues to perform.

[minitoo]

Jeff,
Thanks for the info on the CVT oil breakdown. I am definitly motivated to get my hands on some and change out soon. I change my engine oil yearly (about 4000 miles) but was hoping the tranny would be OK since it isn't in a combustion atmosphere to get contamintated. Cheap insurance...I'm changing my CVT oil early now. When you change yours out do you go through all the steps as outlined in the Bentley manual or just replace as much as you drained out?

Sejanus,
I do need to get out more. Unfortunately, I can't drive out of here (Juneau, AK) so only have a few miles of road to drive on...and I don't use it in ice, salt, and rocks season as I have a sacrificial 4x4 for that. Maybe a ferry trip is in the works soon to get out of here for awhile.

[nonsequitur]

minitoo If you are going to drive off the boat in Washington, be sure to let some of us know! I still think it would be fun to gather Cooper CVTs for an afternoon of conversation and fun.

[JEFF10049]

[quote=minitoo;3147686]Jeff,
Thanks for the info on the CVT oil breakdown. I am definitely motivated to get my hands on some and change out soon. I change my engine oil yearly (about 4000 miles) but was hoping the tranny would be OK since it isn't in a combustion atmosphere to get contaminated. Cheap insurance...I'm changing my CVT oil early now. When you change yours out do you go through all the steps as outlined in the Bentley manual or just replace as much as you drained out?

Sejanus,
I would not get nervous I'm sure lots of CVT cars with more miles than mine are doing the recommended service. Like I said they told me the CVT oil was "starting to break down" Still had life in it but all three analysis recommend I change it at 15k if I want the best protection.
At 15k is when they saw the oil begin to loose it ability to keep the important additives in suspension.
I'm not a chemist so I don't fully understand what the chemist from Shaffer's is telling me. I get lost talking to him.
But the way I understand it the trans oil is synthetic and synthetic oils have a problem keeping additives in suspension. but are more thermally stable than a conventional oil so the best is a blend of synthetic and conventional. Unfortunately this dose not exist for our CVT So the best we can do is change it out when this starts to occur.
I wish I had some of the 30k oil to send in from my first service to see how bad it was. They told going to 30k would not ever be the direct cause of a failure. but will cause premature wear and shorten the life of the cvt they also recommend a external filter to remove abrasive wear particles from the oil if going longer than 15k. I will just change it.


Minitoo,
I just drain out what I can and refill. This may not be the best way. But it will maintain a certain level of good quality fluid in the trans. If you keep up on services.
To be honest I have not read the Bentley service procedure I imagine maybe pulling the cooler lines and flushing all the old fluid while the return line draws in the new? if your getting all the fluid out each time so there is very little old to contaminate the new I think that would be A better service. But a drain and fill is quick easy and works fine to keep the overall fluid condition in good shape.

Jeff

[Sejanus]

Quote: Originally Posted by nonsequitur (original)

No problems, except...

AM radio. Reception has become horrible, unusable at times, with strong interference (or more likely, a weak signal to the radio itself). MINI replaced the radio so it is new, replaced the entire wiring harness (that early issue with some cars), replaced the cables to the aerial and other components, and took the entire system out of the car (all components) to exercise the connections and confirm that everything was installed. "Work" seems to have an effect, but then it falls back to terrible. They've thrown their hands up several times, and just blamed AM generally as bad. As an old US Army Signal Corps guy, this bothers me because it must be fixable; it is either bad equipment, bad signal strength or bad grounding. MINI specifically went through the car and swears that grounding is not the issue. The radio is actually new. OK, that leaves signal so I am having the aerial replaced next. I enjoy NPR and my local jazz stations on FM, or a CD built from our collection, so this has been a project versus a crisis.

I had the exact same problem and for me it was a crisis since the Giants broadcast on AM. It was espeically bad on that station in fact since it was broadcasting from the Bay Area. The first time Niello had a go at it they seemed to have fixed it, but then it started acting up again. Second time they fixed it and it has so far it's been good since May. The problem is I'm not sure what they did to fix it, and frankly I got the impression they weren't too sure what they had done either. I'll try and see if I can find out for you.

[Sejanus]

[quote=JEFF10049;3147997]

Quote: Originally Posted by minitoo (original)

Jeff,
Sejanus,
I would not get nervous I'm sure lots of CVT cars with more miles than mine are doing the recommended service. Like I said they told me the CVT oil was "starting to break down" Still had life in it but all three analysis recommend I change it at 15k if I want the best protection.
At 15k is when they saw the oil begin to loose it ability to keep the important additives in suspension.
I'm not a chemist so I don't fully understand what the chemist from Shaffer's is telling me. I get lost talking to him.
But the way I understand it the trans oil is synthetic and synthetic oils have a problem keeping additives in suspension. but are more thermally stable than a conventional oil so the best is a blend of synthetic and conventional. Unfortunately this dose not exist for our CVT So the best we can do is change it out when this starts to occur.
I wish I had some of the 30k oil to send in from my first service to see how bad it was. They told going to 30k would not ever be the direct cause of a failure. but will cause premature wear and shorten the life of the cvt they also recommend a external filter to remove abrasive wear particles from the oil if going longer than 15k. I will just change it.

Too late to worry about it now anyway I guess. I'll just make sure it gets done every 15K as well. Thanks.

[nonsequitur]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sejanus (original)

I had the exact same problem and for me it was a crisis since the Giants broadcast on AM. <snip> I'll try and see if I can find out for you.

For us it is (sorry "was") the Mariners on AM1000. We love baseball here, and baseball is on AM.

The reception is horrible, and I'm sorry, the reception changed on this radio system. It's the MINI, not the ethers, not the station, not the fault of AM. If Niello MINI has any hints, I'm ready to hear them. Thank you!

[Sejanus]

Quote: Originally Posted by nonsequitur (original)

For us it is (sorry "was") the Mariners on AM1000. We love baseball here, and baseball is on AM.

The reception is horrible, and I'm sorry, the reception changed on this radio system. It's the MINI, not the ethers, not the station, not the fault of AM. If Niello MINI has any hints, I'm ready to hear them. Thank you!

It is absolutely the MINI. It changed on mine as well. AM reception was never that great, interference under bridges, etc, but it became much, much worse. When the problem started I noticed if the car was standing the static was tolerable, but the minute you put it into gear it got worse and as the car started to move it deteriorated even further.

In any case here's what the write up on the second and successful service attempt says,

"On diversity antenna, no change, ran dedicated ground from trans control unit pin 25 and pin 4 to good ground location. AM reception seems better and when drive or reverse is selected reception does not get worse anymore."

I hope that helps.

[nonsequitur]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sejanus (original)

It is absolutely the MINI. It changed on mine as well

Thanks for strengthening my resolve! It's a wonderful machine, which can be fixed.

Quote: Originally Posted by Sejanus (original)

AM reception was never that great, interference under bridges, etc, but it became much, much worse. When the problem started I noticed if the car was standing the static was tolerable, but the minute you put it into gear it got worse and as the car started to move it deteriorated even further.

Exactly. From my old days working with A[mplitude]M[odulated] radio, it sounds like a lost ground plane where the signal can't establish an amplitude(difference to reference) because there isn't one, producing what we hear as static noise.

Quote: Originally Posted by Sejanus (original)

"On diversity antenna, no change, ran dedicated ground from trans control unit pin 25 and pin 4 to good ground location. AM reception seems better and when drive or reverse is selected reception does not get worse anymore."

A specific, tried-successfully, suggestion from another MINI dealer... That's super!

Thank you, Sejanus.

[ontheroadagain]

Ok, since we've morphed from CVT to AM radio , I'll just say that on my '04 up until the trade at 50k, I never had any AM problems..and don't on my '06. Perhaps this was an issue with older models? I am, I must add, addicted to an NPR station that's AM in my neck 'o the woods.

[oldmots]

Quote: Originally Posted by minitoo (original)

Jeff,
Thanks for the info on the CVT oil breakdown. I am definitly motivated to get my hands on some and change out soon. I change my engine oil yearly (about 4000 miles) but was hoping the tranny would be OK since it isn't in a combustion atmosphere to get contamintated. Cheap insurance...I'm changing my CVT oil early now. When you change yours out do you go through all the steps as outlined in the Bentley manual or just replace as much as you drained out?

Sejanus,
I do need to get out more. Unfortunately, I can't drive out of here (Juneau, AK) so only have a few miles of road to drive on...and I don't use it in ice, salt, and rocks season as I have a sacrificial 4x4 for that. Maybe a ferry trip is in the works soon to get out of here for awhile.

I have been weanting to change my own CVT oil but have the Haynes manual and it has no info on the CVT change procedure. Is the procedure difficult?

[minitoo]

Quote: Originally Posted by oldmots (original)

I have been weanting to change my own CVT oil but have the Haynes manual and it has no info on the CVT change procedure. Is the procedure difficult?

Hey all, thanks for the replies. I've been out on the water this week so slow to get back. nonsequitur, if I do get down someday I'll let you know and try to get together. Do you have many VR/VR cars down there?

The Bentley Manual and MINI service instruction for changing out the CVT fluid have you simply draining the oil, replacing the plug and adding 4.5 liters of fluid. Then while the vehicle is jacked up with wheels removed but the lug bolts replaced to hold the rotors on you are supposed to start the car, let it run ten seconds holding the brake then put it in gear and shift through all CVT modes for 5 seconds each (it doesn't say if this is in Manual, D, or SD or what but says you will hear a hissing noise as air circulates through the transmission). Then you put it in drive, release the brake and maintain engine speed of less than 2500 rpm to allow CVT to progress through all gear ratios. Let it remain in 6 th gear for 3 seconds. Run up to less the 2500 and return to idle twice. Then gradually apply brake and shift to reverse and do the same run up to 2500 and return to idle twice in reverse gear. Then brake and shut down. Then you are supposed to connect diagnostic equipment to measure CVT fluid temp. Leave the car run until fluid temp is between 30 and 50 degrees C and then allow excess fluid to drain out since the heated fluid will have expanded. After this you are done and button things back up.

It would appear that the primary reason for this procedure is to purge the tranny internals of air and then warm up the fluid to expand it and drain excess to guard against overfilling. All this is why I asked if others had adhered to this procedure or merely drained and refilled and gone on their merry way. I once sent an email to a Vancouver dealer inquiring about the proper procedure before I had the Bentley manual or BMW service Cd's and he responded by saying that they just drained and were careful to only add 4.5 liter fluid and never mentioned all the other procedure. Not sure how important or harmful this potential overfill might be but if dealers aren't checking this.....could a potential overfill be why some CVT's have failed prematurely? I could see an overfill creating excess heat, foaming, cavitation, and other potentially damaging effects. Some of you with access to dealer service departments might check on exactly how they are performing this service. Just a thought....

[oldmots]

Thanks for the information, it is very helpful knowing how it works. I also do not know what fluid is used, is it a special one?

[minitoo]

Oldmots,
BMW says the oil is special and I could not find it anywhere in the US with a google search besides the MINI dealers. It is ESSO EZL 799 . BMW part # 83 22 0 136 376. It appears that the smallest containers the dealers get it in is 5 gallons but I've inquired at a couple service departments while traveling and they were willing to sell me five quarts if I brought in my own container.