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Old Jan 1st, 2007, 06:08 AM   #121
Sejanus
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Often they just seem to fail without warning, but I'd get that car into the shop ASAP.

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Old Jan 5th, 2007, 03:05 PM   #122 (permalink)
mpeteritas
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Took the car in to Mini. CVT is failing (not completely dead yet). They quoted $6250 to replace the transmission. I complained about the price (of course), so they went to Mini corporate and Mini agreed to cover half. This tells me that enough of these have failed to set a precedent for how help the customers out. So, the final cost will be $3125. Its still a lot of money, but its not as bad as it could be I guess. I just want to get rid of this car and get a manual transmission. The CVT really sucks to drive, and now we can see that it is not reliable either. Its not like we were racing in this car or something... Its my wife's car and she drives pretty conservatively and she never uses the "sport mode". We also had the proper service done at the right times.

While the car was in there, they found that one of the upper strut mounts was cracked. Replacing both of those to the tune of $500. Just rubbing some more salt into the wounds...

So what's the consensus on the 2007 minis? I see that the base model is now a 6 speed manual, which makes more sense for this car (so its not at high RPMs when driving over 60mph). Once they are more readily available this spring, we may get rid of this CVT lemon and get a new one, manual trans this time... Interestingly, the car is also yellow...

-mark
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Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:14 PM   #123 (permalink)
Aurel
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So, for those of you that did the Fluid change out of warranty, what was the charge for it?
I was just quoted $375 by my dealer ... have 41K on the odometer and am in for the Inspection II right now ... I passed on the fluid change to see if this a correct price ... seems extremely high for tranny fluid ...
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Old Feb 10th, 2007, 09:13 PM   #124 (permalink)
Jeffy
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67,000 miles, no problems...

I change the trans fluid myself and use 2quarts 0w30 engine oil and 2quarts ATF instead of the factory stuff. When this trans breaks, I will fix it myself. At that time I will be able to impart to you what goes bad on CVT's and maybe how to improve them. I haven't had any ill behavior in my '02, and my only complaint is that it responds and shifts too slowly- normal stuff for CVT's. I would like to know what chip is good for improving the slow cvt response and time between shifts. Otherwise, I say to change the fluid twice as often as is recommended- especially if you do it yourself, which saves a ton of money. I also need to find out how much the filter is blocked up with contaminants- maybe the filter should be changed more often. Anyway, so far, so good for me and my 67,000 mile '02 MC. -Jeffy.
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Old Feb 12th, 2007, 06:13 AM   #125 (permalink)
minitoo
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Jeffy,
How dd you ever come up with the idea of mixing engine oil and ATF instead of just getting the factory stuff from a dealer? Did you have some assurrance that this combo would work properly? Sounds like it has been working for you though. I will be needing to change my own fluid and a dealer is days away and not sure if I can get the proper fluid shipped without paying some ridiculous hazardous materials shipping charges. Your solution is of interest....thanks.
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Old Feb 13th, 2007, 04:22 AM   #126 (permalink)
Jeffy
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I came up with my fluid formulation with some informed logic. The ATF has the sulfur content that is a good lubricant for gear sets and it is proven- American transmissions using good old red ATF would last well over 100,000 miles without ever changing the fluid at all. I decided to add the thin film synthetic engine oil because it's more slippery and temperature stable. A primary component in the CVT is a drive belt, made of steel, and lubricated by a spray nozzle, so I want a lubricant that will prevent the wear that could result from the drive belt riding on another steel surface. I prefer slippage to breakage, also, so when I take off hard from a stand-still or a full-throttle down shift, there may be a small amount of slippage especially since I have maybe 20 more horsepower than originally. I live in south Texas, where it gets really hot, so high temperature lubrication is critical. I now have over 68,000 miles and drive it like I stole it, so it obviously works. To everyone: good luck with your CVT- I hate to hear that someone has to pay an exorbitant price for a transmission replacement. -Jeffy.
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Old Feb 13th, 2007, 07:09 AM   #127 (permalink)
minitoo
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Thanks for the info Jeffy. It was the wet clutches that I would have been most concerned with fluids being compatabile but with that many miles on your car it would appear that you have hit on something that works better than the specified fluid has for some folks. If you keep your car long enough do let us know when you finally need to repair it. Maybe you'll be setting a new CVT mileage record....
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Old Mar 31st, 2007, 02:08 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Generally people post with their problems so it is hard know if they are the majority or not. I would just like to end my time on this thread on a positive note. I have just sold my 2003 Cooper CVT with 64000 miles after 4 years of trouble free ownership. Yes I bought a 2007 R56A.
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Old May 15th, 2007, 03:31 AM   #129 (permalink)
Vanwall
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Just hit 100,000 miles on the clock, and just as much fun today as it was five years ago!

BCNU,
Rob in Dago


Brooksie, the 2002 BRG & W Cooper, lets me sit in the drivers seat sometimes.
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Old May 15th, 2007, 04:06 AM   #130 (permalink)
cafemoc
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Congrats to 100k

Rob,

Fantastic! Happy 100k miles for you.
I am at 83k miles, and am looking for replacment now.

I had great time driving MINI though.

-- Toshi


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Old May 15th, 2007, 05:05 AM   #131 (permalink)
Mustang7302
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As i posted in the "Attention all CVT Owners" thread, ours died Friday night. The dealer wants $4600 for the unit and another $2600 for labor, all before taxes. I have told them to contact the regional rep to see what they'd do to help cover costs.

The car had a humming/grinding noise for close to 10,000 miles before failure. It's been concluded that it was the pump that failed and it now pours fluid out of the front seal.

I am looking at other means of getting this issue taken care of. What's this I hear of a shop in the Houston area?

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