| Tags: map, tuning |
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| | #1 |
| Crapping in the woods... Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Sydney Local Time: 10:16 PM
Posts: 1,757
Offline | Tuning without a remap I'm about to venture into the world of MCS tuning, and have questions regarding the ecu maps. How important are they? Can I upgrade the parts on my car without going for a remap? The mods I'll have are: 15% pulley, CAI, NGK sparks, Nology Hotwires, JCW exhaust, and considering a header (either MTH or Mini-Madness) and 380cc injectors and GRS intercooler. So... if I do all that.. would I need a remap? I recognize that the car may not be working at it's most efficient without one, but also how long could I go without updating the ecu? Thank you. ![]() |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Overly excited!! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Worcestershire Local Time: 12:16 PM
Posts: 1,236
Offline | I have a JCW with a Pully, manifold, CAI, GRS intercooler as well as a few other things from GTT. Didnt need a remap. I know Roland from GTT runs a standard map on his MCS, except it has a slightly higher rev limit, and hes running over 260bhp. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| THE STICK Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Worcestershire WR15 Local Time: 12:16 PM
Posts: 3,070
Offline | It all depends on the car. Roland will tell you that some stock cars maps seem to fuel modded cars far better than others...some require the standard map reflashed to get them to keep the fixture at a safe level but others don't. Also if you fit bigger injectors you don't nessiserily need a different map...all that happens is that the injectors can push more fuel in at a given time. The map will usually cope...but TBH a remap might give you that little bit more from the mods. R |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| MINI 2 Sponsor GT Tuning Join Date: Jan 2004 Local Time: 12:16 PM
Posts: 2,736
Offline | Hi Guys, yes we have about 12 different maps here for our car,but the one we use is stock with a bit more idle speed due to the Fidenza flywheel. Fuelling is excellent using JCW injectors ,maintains 14.7:1 in closed loop and 12:1 at full revs with WOT. You must use a wide band sensor/digital meter, mounted BEFORE the cat, and test on the real road/track to achieve actual loads,airflow,cooling etc.A sniffer up the tailpipe on the RR gives all sorts of false readings/delays. If you adjust 'to this' it could be miles out. Timing is the area that may /may not need altering. How do you know? you do the other mods first then try the car to see if (and at what rpm) the car pinks. If necessary the timing can be retarded. Or in some cases you can even advance beyond stock but is less common and has to be done in very small increments. Keep using the 99 Ron guys ,its not recommend for smoothness or power ,but engine protection under full sustained load. (and at present I have no shares in Shell V or Tesco 99) Best Regards Roland GTT ![]() |
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