[GTT 280]

...apologies, my mind set is that if something needs replacing, replace it with a specialist part. With you talking about quaife diffs i assumed you were in the modding game. My assumption was incorrect.

Not sure if spending so much on a quiafe is really such a good idea for you either then. If you've not really got the power, then for the cost you won't really see much benefit.

Yes, it will prevent that inner wheel spin, but for £1000+ you'll see more benefit on a high powered car than on a low powered car - it's all relative, so for you i think the gain is minimal.

Cheers,
K.

[slim_boy_fat]

Quote: Originally Posted by GTT 270 (original)

...apologies, my mind set is that if something needs replacing, replace it with a specialist part. With you talking about quaife diffs i assumed you were in the modding game. My assumption was incorrect.

Not sure if spending so much on a quiafe is really such a good idea for you either then. If you've not really got the power, then for the cost you won't really see much benefit.

Yes, it will prevent that inner wheel spin, but for £1000+ you'll see more benefit on a high powered car than on a low powered car - it's all relative, so for you i think the gain is minimal.

Cheers,
K.

You might be right maybe 210bhp is not quite enought to warrant an LSD on a mini. But its possably the best way to spend £1000 on the car to improve the way it goes, maybe a nice coilover set up would be up there too.

Modding a car is definatly a game, played by those who are daft as a brush mainly. I know have been there and done it and still do.

I am slowly realising that cars are a total waste of money and spending anything more that £1000 on a car is daft, it might take another 10 years for me to fully come to terms with it by which time only the very very rich will be able to afford to run cars anyway!!

[GTT 280]

Thanks for insulting a large proportion of the MINI community

Cheers,
K.

[slim_boy_fat]

Quote: Originally Posted by GTT 270 (original)

Thanks for insulting a large proportion of the MINI community

Cheers,
K.

If your insulted by that then you clearly have not read or understood my post properly.

And the mini community are far from the biggest group of after market spenders on tuningparts.

When i am 60 years old i cant see my self thinking wow i wish i had spent more money on that high performance titanium coarted unobtaniam crankshaft with dlc coating and flangerhomed detailing.

I have realiesd you are better buying a car that fit for purpose rather than trying to tune one that fit for another purpose.

Each to his own and as i say i still spend money on tuning parts, ergo i have insulted myself. QED!!

[GTT 280]

..."large", not "the largest".

Cheers,
K.

[slim_boy_fat]

Quote: Originally Posted by GTT 270 (original)

..."large", not "the largest".

Cheers,
K.

You calling me fat.

[alski]

Quote: Originally Posted by slim_boy_fat (original)

You calling me fat.

looks like it, but only from 8,000 miles away

i agree modding is for mugs, if your aiming to get from a to b on a budget
but the whole point of a fast mini is that it is percived as only a mini.... to go faster in something german or japanese is missing the fun factor of the unexpected,
if my lotto comes up yes i will buy an Aston, R8 etc but sure i will have more fun
with an even more expensivly souped up mini

oh i have oem LSD & 1st track day coming nxt wk [work permitting]

[GTT 280]

Quote: Originally Posted by alski (original)

....modding is for mugs

That's a lame comment dude

K.

[k-huevo]

Here is some Quaife install info MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Clutch, Flywheel, and Quaife Install Overview .

I think the Quaife is worthwhile addition all by itself. I feel the difference when I make a quick pass on a narrow road, when I’m driving out of a tight turn, when I’m making a turn on an incline, when I need traction to power through an overcooked corner, and when I do a burn out (two wheels instead of one), the down side is it does nothing for driving in the wet like the OEM and other friction disc types of LSDs.

For a street vehicle and no issues with the clutch, it is ok to keep the stock clutch & flywheel. Go ahead and remove the pressure plate and take a look at the disc. In this photo the OEM disc on top has 1,000 miles of use and the lower disc has 70,000 miles on it. As can be seen, there was much mileage still to be had on the original.


Replace the clutch release bearing and guide tube, plus apply a small amount of the OEM grease (Sachs has a good one also) to the transmission input shaft and guide tube while the gearbox is off, whether you do a clutch & flywheel swap or not. In my case replacing the clutch release shaft’s nylon bushings removed extra play on that piece also.

My MCS is no slouch in the power output department, it’s been down the dragstrip a few times, and I spin the wheels on occasion; the OEM clutch is adequate for street use. The flywheel is heavy however; this is a good thing for keeping the revs high between shifts, but not a good thing for acceleration. When I put the new parts in, the rattle of the old flywheel & clutch was eliminated and pedal effort improved greatly, but I picked up the dreaded intermittent “howl” in first gear take offs. In hind sight, I would have rather kept the rattle. I have some plans for a lightweight flywheel and clutch in the future just to be rid of the occasional howl; this time it will be an all steel flywheel and conventional sprung hub disc.