[ScottishcooperS]

Hey all,

Iv just purchased a GTT enlarged crank pulley for my cooper s. I was just wondering if anyone has any tips on fitting this item, and is it easy/hard to fit? Any ideas how long it should take to fit and what tools will be required?

Cheers guys
Willie

[s33gav]

I had gtt fit mine. would have though asking them for instructions, tips etc would be the best place to start.

[ScottishcooperS]

Yeah will give them a call.

[GTT 280]

May i ask, why would you purchase such an item without any knowledge of how to fit it?
I take it you know that the crank pulley is deep into the engine bay It's certainly not a 5 minute bolt off, bolt on job. I'd be carefull about taking this to a mechanic and just asking them to "fit it" - if they are unfamiliar then you'll be paying high labour costs and they may not fit it correctly. There are good ways and bad ways....

Cheers,
K.

[ScottishcooperS]

Quote: Originally Posted by GTT 260 (original)

May i ask, why would you purchase such an item without any knowledge of how to fit it?
I take it you know that the crank pulley is deep into the engine bay It's certainly not a 5 minute bolt off, bolt on job. I'd be carefull about taking this to a mechanic and just asking them to "fit it" - if they are unfamiliar then you'll be paying high labour costs and they may not fit it correctly. There are good ways and bad ways....

Cheers,
K.

Karl,

The same reason I purchased all my mods – I didn’t have a clue how to fit any of them at the time but I managed, I always do. There are usually allot of people on here that have fitted such items and are more than happy to post up their own little guides and tips and give helpful advice on where they had specific problems and how to avoid these. For example I got allot of help from past posts when fitting my GTT manifold and there is a fantastic guide that Randy Webb done on fitting the 15% pulley.

Yes I am aware the crank pulley is quite deep in the engine bay and if it takes me 5 minutes or 15 hours I don’t really care.

If you had fitted any items to your car by yourself instead of going to BMW and getting a John Cooper Works kit fitted for you and then going to Roland and getting him to fit the GTT 260 kit then you would know that its allot more satisfying fitting items yourself and then feeling the difference each mod has made. Each to their own though.

Have you seen a nice shiny picture or diagram of a cooper s engine bay or something recently before you know where the crank pulley is situated??

[CC07ERS]

Quote: Originally Posted by ScottishcooperS (original)

Karl,

The same reason I purchased all my mods – I didn’t have a clue how to fit any of them at the time but I managed, I always do. There are usually allot of people on here that have fitted such items and are more than happy to post up their own little guides and tips and give helpful advice on where they had specific problems and how to avoid these. For example I got allot of help from past posts when fitting my GTT manifold and there is a fantastic guide that Randy Webb done on fitting the 15% pulley.

Yes I am aware the crank pulley is quite deep in the engine bay and if it takes me 5 minutes or 15 hours I don’t really care.

If you had fitted any items to your car by yourself instead of going to BMW and getting a John Cooper Works kit fitted for you and then going to Roland and getting him to fit the GTT 260 kit then you would know that its allot more satisfying fitting items yourself and then feeling the difference each mod has made. Each to their own though.

Have you seen a nice shiny picture or diagram of a cooper s engine bay or something recently before you know where the crank pulley is situated??

Ilike your style ,fitting costs are somehting nobody wants to pay. Rolland will let you no how to do it.

[BlueMax]

Willie - I am also very interested in fitting a 3% crank pulley to my 04 MCS (got the JCW 210). A while back I had some ticking noise problems which BMW thought came from the damper pulley. This they replaced under warranty (was not the problem but it gave me some insight into the job). I also like to do things myself, I even built and am flying a kit plane. The problem always comes down to the right tools, the right instructions and time. You have the time and are looking for instructions (which I am sure Roland will provide or you will get from this forum). Tools will be the difficult bit - even BMW techs seems to struggle with removing and replacing crank pulleys and they have the right tools. First of all you will need a tool to compress the belt tensioner spring so that you can remove the belt. Then you will need the correct puller to extract the pulley from the crank shaft. This I reckon will be the most difficult tool to obtain, from reading other posts not just any puller will do and you run the risk of doing some serious damage to the crankshaft end if you are not using the correct tool. Once the damper pulley is off it should be quite simple to fit the GTT collar onto the shaft and then the pulley onto the collar. Here you will need the correct thread locking grades (loctite) and I a decent torque wrench. I am not an expert but this job I think will be best left to the experts unless you can get the proper tools. Please update on the progress, I am keeping a close eye on this thread

[HObzy]

Quote: Originally Posted by BlueMax (original)

Willie - I am also very interested in fitting a 3% crank pulley to my 04 MCS (got the JCW 210). A while back I had some ticking noise problems which BMW thought came from the damper pulley. This they replaced under warranty (was not the problem but it gave me some insight into the job). I also like to do things myself, I even built and am flying a kit plane. The problem always comes down to the right tools, the right instructions and time. You have the time and are looking for instructions (which I am sure Roland will provide or you will get from this forum). Tools will be the difficult bit - even BMW techs seems to struggle with removing and replacing crank pulleys and they have the right tools. First of all you will need a tool to compress the belt tensioner spring so that you can remove the belt. Then you will need the correct puller to extract the pulley from the crank shaft. This I reckon will be the most difficult tool to obtain, from reading other posts not just any puller will do and you run the risk of doing some serious damage to the crankshaft end if you are not using the correct tool. Once the damper pulley is off it should be quite simple to fit the GTT collar onto the shaft and then the pulley onto the collar. Here you will need the correct thread locking grades (loctite) and I a decent torque wrench. I am not an expert but this job I think will be best left to the experts unless you can get the proper tools. Please update on the progress, I am keeping a close eye on this thread

Quite right that.

Getting to it is actually relatively simple, as its one wheel off and the wheel arch out or folded back. Getting the OEM one off is a PITA, to the point where I we had to give up - the correct puller is absolutely essential...

[supercoopers]

I am all for a bit of 'hands on DIY' engine building...I've even rebuilt my own car from the block upwards two years ago before I took it off the road to pursue a different project, but take it from me ScottishCooperS, the crank pulley install is not easy and there are a number of pitfalls.

Firstly, you must have a proper tool to remove the stock pulley, a generic pulley puller is inappropriate. All you'll end up doing is 1) Damaging the counterbalance of the crank and at worst, introduce metal shavings into the oil pan and 2) If you 'pry' on the puley at all it just retracts back because of the rubber dampener and the oil pump housing is not that strong and you may end up making a fracture...you can guess how I know that

The tool itself costs around 200 pounds from BMW. If I were you, I would talk to Roland and ask if you could perhaps watch an install of your crank pulley so that you can have an idea of what goes into the process, but actually getting the tools and with the risks considered, it's a wise choice to leave it to the professionals if you don't want the headache of a damaged crank or broken oil pump housing leaking oil

You also have to get the alignment 100% to avoid belt carnage!

Cheers,

Henry

[roland2003]

Hi guys,for belt removal & stock crank pulley removal we have designed/made our own tooling. We only have one of each tool so we cant lend them out unfortunatly. Fitting of the GTT Crank pulley requires no special tools ,just a butane gas torch or similar to heat the inner Stainless Steel sleeve to around 200 deg C . Both this and the pulley wheel go on as far as they can, upto the shoulder, at which point you get perfect alignment with the other pulleys. We use a small smear of high strength retainer (loctite 271, Permabond A118, Wurth Green) around the crank nose, ditto on the 6 off small bolts, then Medium strength threadlock on the large centre bolt.- No need to put anything on the 'sleeve to wheel 'faces.
Best Regards Roland GTT

[Ant FR]

Quote: Originally Posted by ScottishcooperS (original)

Karl,

The same reason I purchased all my mods – I didn’t have a clue how to fit any of them at the time but I managed, I always do. There are usually allot of people on here that have fitted such items and are more than happy to post up their own little guides and tips and give helpful advice on where they had specific problems and how to avoid these. For example I got allot of help from past posts when fitting my GTT manifold and there is a fantastic guide that Randy Webb done on fitting the 15% pulley.

Yes I am aware the crank pulley is quite deep in the engine bay and if it takes me 5 minutes or 15 hours I don’t really care.

If you had fitted any items to your car by yourself instead of going to BMW and getting a John Cooper Works kit fitted for you and then going to Roland and getting him to fit the GTT 260 kit then you would know that its allot more satisfying fitting items yourself and then feeling the difference each mod has made. Each to their own though.

Have you seen a nice shiny picture or diagram of a cooper s engine bay or something recently before you know where the crank pulley is situated??

Bravo, i fully agrea.

[ScottishcooperS]

Hey guys!

Thanks to everyone who replied......

supercoopers - I knew you would have had an idea about this one, after all you strip and build engines for fun thanks for the detailed explanation mate, I think it might have been you a while back that gave me advice on fitting the GTT manifold too!

BlueMax - Thanks for the reply, i've got myself a pretty good puller tool so hopefully this will manage to do the job (both fingers and toes crossed)....as you say the tools you use are everything when it comes to a job like this. I'll be sure to keep you posted.

Roland - Appreciate the post and ill be sure to use the advice/tips that you have given.

[Ant FR]

also try and get this done within the next 2 weeks as i need to know whether its worth the extra cash as i have provisionaly said yes to having this on my visit to GTT in 2 weeks.

come on scotish get yer spanners out, as nobody else has had it fitted after a pulley so can't advise on the difference this one mod makes.........lol

[GTT 280]

Quote: Originally Posted by ScottishcooperS (original)

Karl,

The same reason I purchased all my mods – I didn’t have a clue how to fit any of them at the time but I managed, I always do. There are usually allot of people on here that have fitted such items and are more than happy to post up their own little guides and tips and give helpful advice on where they had specific problems and how to avoid these. For example I got allot of help from past posts when fitting my GTT manifold and there is a fantastic guide that Randy Webb done on fitting the 15% pulley.

Yes I am aware the crank pulley is quite deep in the engine bay and if it takes me 5 minutes or 15 hours I don’t really care.

If you had fitted any items to your car by yourself instead of going to BMW and getting a John Cooper Works kit fitted for you and then going to Roland and getting him to fit the GTT 260 kit then you would know that its allot more satisfying fitting items yourself and then feeling the difference each mod has made. Each to their own though.

Have you seen a nice shiny picture or diagram of a cooper s engine bay or something recently before you know where the crank pulley is situated??

..we are having a tantrum aren't we

Cheers,
K.

[ScottishcooperS]

Quote: Originally Posted by Ant FR (original)

also try and get this done within the next 2 weeks as i need to know whether its worth the extra cash as i have provisionaly said yes to having this on my visit to GTT in 2 weeks.

come on scotish get yer spanners out, as nobody else has had it fitted after a pulley so can't advise on the difference this one mod makes.........lol

Hey mate,

I’ll definitely have it done within the next two weeks but whether or not I bottle doing the work myself is a different story altogether! Once I’ve had a look around and had a fiddle about I’ll know if it’s a job for the “professionals”

I’ve been on the phone to Roland today and he was a great help as always, he’s sending me a detailed set of instructions, which I’m chuffed about. He says the throttle body and crank pulley should be with me either tomorrow or Thursday

Karl - I wouldn’t so much say “tantrum” but more replying to your question “May I ask, why would you purchase such an item without any knowledge of how to fit it?”

Now you know why I purchased the items, even if your question was a rhetorical one.

Anyway back to the topic at hand…my original post has served it’s purpose in giving me loads of helpful tips and advice from people who have had many different experiences with their MINI’s so im chuffed

[ScottishcooperS]

Just fitted my GTT Throttle body - was very simple and took about 30 mins. If anyone needs any help or advice when fitting one just drop me a pm.

[Aberdeen Al]

I meet need some advice on fitting the throtte body although I'll wait to see if you notice any difference!

[Ant FR]

and the difference of fitting the throttle body, anything noticed at all????

[BlueMax]

So when are you fitting the crank pulley ? What mods do you have on your MCS and yes we would like to know what difference the throttle body made. Cheers

[ScottishcooperS]

Hey guys,

Sorry haven’t been on in a bit. There is not much difference from adding the throttle body, you get better throttle response lower down but nothing major that makes you really notice. At first I thought it felt quicker but after you fit something it can all be in your head sometimes. The reason I bought one is because I’m planning on getting some real power out of my cooper s in the near future and every little helps. If you are someone who is just happy with a smaller pulley, CAI, and exhaust then there is no reason for you to add this modification in my opinion, but as you go up the power the throttle body becomes a bit of a restriction.

My engine mods as requested:

Alta CAI
Alta 15% Pulley
GTT Intercooler & Snoot Boots
GTT Manifold
GTT De-Cat Pipe
Milltek Exhaust

And obviously the Throttle Body and Crank Pulley to be added to the list.

As for the crank pulley Roland just emailed me the fitting instructions a couple of days ago and I’ve had a little look at the job and I’m thinking about either just waiting till I go down and see Roland pretty soon and getting him to fit it or putting it into a garage. Basically I’ve bottled it haha!!