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Old Dec 22nd, 2007, 11:22 AM   #21
r1_kde
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Well after clicking the link for your manifold several times I did a search and presume you ment this one

http://www.mini2.com/forum/1320autos...00-500bhp.html

That is a nice bit of kit, could save a lot of time, I presume its a tig welded stainless? looking at the setup next to it, does it place the turbo at the top or the bottom of the engine? ideally I am looking to place my turbo at the bottom.

for information; I will be removing the blower entirly and thebypass is just a wide diameter pipe with a flange on eaither end, one couples to throttle and the other to the inlet horn. I do worry about the intercooler after the tb as I have never done it this way before... I am sure it will be ok but I will need to test, as always I produce my setups as low as possible - "I do the work" I am aiming to spend about £3K all in.

My last project was to supercharge a celica 11zfe block for £1.5k all in, I managed it but then needed to spend £500 cleaning up after, but it ran very well.




I have just about finished my 1.0 corsa with an LPG tank in, "the commuter" once that is done the mini is off to live at the garage.

well off to wash the mini and plan the a little more! out comes the CAD
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Old Dec 22nd, 2007, 01:46 PM   #22 (permalink)
Tüls
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that manifold is a top mount design...

ussually the TB is the last thing before the intake manifold...


good luck... make sure you start a thread so we can watch the fun! LOL
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Old Dec 22nd, 2007, 07:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I will start the thread!

I think I am going to continue with the original plan, but I would like to keep the throttle before the intercooler, I will have to look into this more, else I will be re-designing everything, maybe I will be using a real charge cooler PWR type.

What other turbos are being used? I was torn between the T25r and the T28r of which I went with the latter.

I just hope this will be an easy conversion for me... I will be having also a GTT stg4 head and the 1320 cam as I am sure they will work together well. oh well time will tell! I would have started the conversion but my central heating broke down "Gutted" there goes 4K not spent on the car...
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Old Dec 23rd, 2007, 06:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I use a T25 flange.. with a GT2871r... allot of folks have been using GT2860r and GT2860rs (aka the disco potato)... GT28 would be as small as I would go as any smaller starts to become a bottle neck... but with a ported head it spools quite nicely... in the end I know what I like from all the testing etc.. but it's tough to ever say what is best for what YOU will like... sure I can tell you what I think is best... you might thing it's pants and visa versa
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Old Dec 27th, 2007, 03:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
chuntington101
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ok then guys lets have a wish list for the turbo kit.

first off

Tubular manifold or cast iron one?? both could be divided/twinscroll (help spool up) and both could flow the same if designed well.

high or low mount turbo?? which would be easier to manufacture and which would everyone prefer to see??

external or internal gated turbos???

keep the top mount or go for front mount?? top mount could be ceaper and you could always go for a chargercooler but front mount would work better.

new intake manifold or keep the stock one??

would you want a bolt on kit, ie inc. injectors and such forth, or a DIY kit where you find all the little bits and bobs??

how much power would we all like to see??

cheers chris.

PS. dont want to ofend 1320 juts trying to see waht everyone wants.
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 12:15 AM   #26 (permalink)
Paul Webster
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Chris,

Good addition of questions and you'll find it very hard to offend me

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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 03:05 PM   #27 (permalink)
chuntington101
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Quote: Originally Posted by 1320autos (original)
Chris,

Good addition of questions and you'll find it very hard to offend me

thats good then!

me personally, id like to see a turbo kit with.....

a tubular manifold with twin scroll and low mount turbo(bit like the up and down ones fitted to the Evo). manfiold would NEED TO HAVE BRACING FOR THE TRUBO TO!! dont want cracked manifolds.

external gate would be nice but might be a bit tight down there.

keep the top mount so you could run a chargecooler or the Bell creation RMW US is coming out with

cos of the above you may as well keep stock manifold

i think a bolt on kit would be nice!

would have to make over 400bhp to be competitive!

thanks Chris.

PS. thats another point, what size downpipe would everyone want?? i recon if a 2.5inch could fit in there it would be good. might need to offset the turbo location a little to help with that. what is the size of the flang on the back of the GT28s??
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 06:49 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Could you pull your engine out and get it rebored or honed and fit pistons Chris?

Top mount is okay for the Cooper S boys but what about the Cooper / One who want the sleeper look and keep there bonnets, and yes we have a few customers enquieries like that.

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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 07:55 PM   #29 (permalink)
Loui
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In relation manifolds, a couple of mates of mine who have built bonkers creations including an 8v 1.6 Nova Turbo, a 4x4 Mk3 GSI 2.0 T astra, have used this guy to build them manifolds:-

Sevs - Specialist Engineering Vehicle Services

Apparenlty SEV is very well known in the ford world,has been known for his cossie pictured, an a RWD RS Turbo An certain people say you cant make manifolds with out this process an that process, i say cods wallop

Plus i still like that fireballed one as its proven, 80 odd conversions says a lot to me, plus the figures which have been backed up at tha track
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 07:57 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 1320autos (original)
Could you pull your engine out and get it rebored or honed and fit pistons Chris?

Top mount is okay for the Cooper S boys but what about the Cooper / One who want the sleeper look and keep there bonnets, and yes we have a few customers enquieries like that.


I thought we had this convo the other day LOL
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Old Dec 28th, 2007, 09:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
Paul Webster
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Yup we certainly did, I think there is defintley going to a rise of high powered Minis in the UK in08.

I also think a 9 sec 1/4 mile is on the cards in 2008

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It's not how much you spend but how well you spend it
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 04:25 PM   #32 (permalink)
Paul Webster
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Another question;

If you are turboing your Mini will it be your second car ?

Will it be your every day driver?

Will it be a track slag?

If a track slag would you use an aftermarket ecu like an Emerald or would some people go to a Motec??

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It's not how much you spend but how well you spend it
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 08:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Some say

That no one man can build a turbo only Mini in there garage

Some say

That he is to young to accomplish this and he hasn't a machine / welding shop

Some say

That he is one of the most intelligant Mini owners you'll meet

All we know is he's called Ryehile

Project Log: MM2urbo

Enjoy

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It's not how much you spend but how well you spend it
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 12:08 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Here's the secrets to Tig welding a manifold for any of you guys wishing to have ago your selves...

When welding exhaust manifolds or inlet manifolds in Stainless steel or steel you need to purge the pipes, this isn't difficult what so ever!! Basically you fill the pipe work internally with pure argon at aprox 15 litres per minute on your flow gauge.By doing this will allow the penetrating to look like the weld on the outside i.e. nice and clean because there is no oxygen to affect the weld. This helps to keep any restriction down to the minimum, maximise the flow and is much stronger. I’ve enclosed some pictures of some tests I did to prove this point.






You can see the difference straight away.You can use the same Argon bottle your welders using by T'ing off the regulator. The purge pressure is so low your welder won't be affected!!! oh and while on the subject of purging you can't pruge aluminium, only steel/stainless steel.

Remember to put the argon pipe at the bottom of the manifold this makes the argon work its way to the top, why? Pure Argon is heavier than air so by purging at the bottom will force all the air out so no air locks. Masked off all joints that have been lightly tacked, and mask off the ends of the pipe work but leave a couple of small holes to allow the argon to escape - very important!!

Personally I would use schedule pipe, this has a thicker wall adding strength, but saying that there are some every good exhaust manifold manufactures using thin wall pipe with no problem, its personal preference. I'm just about to finish off an exhaust manifold with external waste gate for a classic mini that has an Audi TT engine and gearbox installed!!! I've used schedule pipe which is 4mm thick, but with full penitration, pic's to follow...

Happy welding

Graham

Last edited by MINIAC : Dec 30th, 2007 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Make images clickable thumbnails
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 04:08 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Test


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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 06:05 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Interesting post Graham. We purge tig our manifold in the way you describe. We also turned up a stepped bung to support the argon pipe and seal at the lower end. We prefer to use thick wall cold drawn steel as is better than stainless for turbo manifolds being less likely to crack . (It wont ever rust out btw).
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 08:39 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Interesting post Graham. We purge tig our manifold in the way you describe. We also turned up a stepped bung to support the argon pipe and seal at the lower end.

Yeah Roland you can use tapered/conical rubber bungs (I've used both), but masking can work just as well depending on conditions. What folk do forget and is very important is to purge the tacks too, if this wasn't done while making pharmaceutical equipment or pressure vessels you'd be in all sorts of trouble!! Another point is to use the right purge pipe, nylon pipe only other types of 6mm pipe will and do allow oxygen through the wall of the pipe. I was in this industry for 15 years, but I'm in the aerospace industry now....

Graham
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 09:35 PM   #38 (permalink)
Loui
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Quote: Originally Posted by GRSmotorsport (original)
Yeah Roland you can use tapered/conical rubber bungs (I've used both), but masking can work just as well depending on conditions. What folk do forget and is very important is to purge the tacks too, if this wasn't done while making pharmaceutical equipment or pressure vessels you'd be in all sorts of trouble!! Another point is to use the right purge pipe, nylon pipe only other types of 6mm pipe will and do allow oxygen through the wall of the pipe. I was in this industry for 15 years, but I'm in the aerospace industry now....

You are a fountain of knowledge Graham
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 09:31 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Interesting post Graham. We purge tig our manifold in the way you describe. We also turned up a stepped bung to support the argon pipe and seal at the lower end. We prefer to use thick wall cold drawn steel as is better than stainless for turbo manifolds being less likely to crack . (It wont ever rust out btw).


Are you the innovator off turbo manifolds using cds Roland?

.

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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 12:12 PM   #40 (permalink)
chuntington101
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here is something else 1320. what about a manifold like this one for the Civic???

http://www.turbokits.com/images/full..._turbo_kit.jpg

would this make things easier?? would def look much cooler than the down low manifold.

thanks Chris.
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