[MINIAC]

Now that I've fitted a Scangauge, I'd like to know how to make the best use of the gauge readings to determine whether there is a problem.

VLT (Battery Voltage)

The User Manual is pretty clear on this one:

Quote:

Normal running battery voltage is between 13 and 15. When the engine is off it should be between 11 and 13. Voltages higher than 15 volts can damage batteries and electrical components. Voltages below 13 when the vehicle is running could indicate poor charging of the battery. Voltage below 11 when the engine is off could indicate a low battery charge or a shorted battery cell.

WT (Water Temperature)

Again from the Users Manual:

Quote:

A vehicle with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water will not boil over until about 265 degrees F at sea level. This will be reduced at higher elevations.

What coolant temp should you see cruising at highway speeds?

MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

I know the reading has to be adjusted by subtracting air pressure relative to altitude to determine boost. Do you correlate this reading to TPS (Throttle Position Setting) or LOD (Engine Load) or some other reading to determine if you have a boost leak?

IGN (Ignition Timing)

Anything to watch for here?

[MINI-Morgan]

Would be interested to see a graph of ignition timings to see if the advance is pulled as the revs come up.

[sam_a156]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINIAC (original)

VLT (Battery Voltage)

WT (Water Temperature)

What coolant temp should you see cruising at highway speeds?

MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

I know the reading has to be adjusted by subtracting air pressure relative to altitude to determine boost. Do you correlate this reading to TPS (Throttle Position Setting) or LOD (Engine Load) or some other reading to determine if you have a boost leak?

IGN (Ignition Timing)

Anything to watch for here?

My two pennies:

WT - at least during the winter conditions here, it seems to sit at around 87C = 156F

MAP - I am only looking at the absolute value of this at WOT and close to red line. I am typically seeing up to 32.5 absolute reading, i.e. 32.5-14.5 = 18 PSI boost (4th gear, WOT, close to redline). I guess you should just figure out the normal amount of boost for your mods (pulley, crank pulley etc) and compare the readings to see if you have a leak. (though I recommend having somebody else in the car - it is a bit hazardous to keep looking at the Scangauge @ WOT, 4th gear and close to redline)

IGN - still trying to work this out myself. To my knowledge timing is adjusted e.g. when the intake air temps raise too much. Don't know what kind of readings I should be expecting though.

[MINIAC]

Quote: Originally Posted by sam_a156 (original)

... though I recommend having somebody else in the car - it is a bit hazardous to keep looking at the Scangauge @ WOT, 4th gear and close to redline.

YUP ... reading the gauge should definitely be left to the co-pilot.

[Berthil]

I have the Scangauge too, I look at intake air temperature, water temperature, iginition advance and open/closed loop.

It's interesting to see how soon the open loop is engaged. This means that the Oxygen sensor is not regulating the mixture. In open loop the mixture is regulated by internal stored mixture tables.

The ignition advance I also didn't work either, but I think the ScanGauge is too slow to capture ignition advance (and MAP) correctly because of the slow OBD protocol.

[MINIAC]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINIAC (original)

MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

I know the reading has to be adjusted by subtracting air pressure relative to altitude to determine boost.

No need to do the math any more

Scangauge XGauge Boost

[BigShow300]

Been meaning to go out and do this! Thanks for the reminder.