[batou]

Ok, I need some direction on where best to spend my money to meet what I want. So far the car (a 09/2003 Pre-Facelift S) has been upgraded as follows:

Engine -
ALTA 15% Pulley Reduction
ALTA Dual Stage Panel Filter
NGK Range 7 Iridium Spark Plugs
(Just got a Works GP Intercooler ready to fit too)
Braking / Handling -
EBC Grooved & Dimpled Front Discs with Green Stuff Pads
Goodyear Eagle GSD-3 215/40/17

I'm happy with the handling, and in fairness having only had one twitch from the rear and a touch of power understeer here and there I don't think I'm quite pushing the limit on that front. The grip in full wet conditions is astounding, massive change from OEM tyres.

Stopping feels strong enough but a little less pedal travel and a firmer feel would inspire a little more confidence if anything. But the slight upgrade in brakes and the better tyres feel much better than stock.

Power wise the car pulls nicely from a standing start and made 200bhp/167whp & 180ft/lbs without the GP intercooler. This seemed like a huge jump from stock and I'm mostly happy with that but could do with a few improvements.

Throttle response could be much improved, smoothness and a little less yo-yo'ing. Even though the power and torque is there it still feels like I should drop a cog as the response is not enough. The car was running quite rich as well and I have the A/F figures at home.

I'd like to see around the 220-225bhp mark as a long term goal, or at least a jump that feels like another 20-25Hp.

So where is best to direct my money if I'm looking for the following with minimal risk to reliability...

• Improved throttle response, more instant
• Less yo-yo'ing and more smoothness
• Less braking pedal travel & firmer feel

?

The ideas I've gathered from on here from others are:

• JCW 380cc Injectors
• Milltek Manifold or Catback
• GTT 2-3% Oversized crank
• 05' Spec Cooper S/JCW/GP ECU
• Braided Brake Hose Kit (Goodridge/Stoptech)

Few things:

I'm scared of remaps.... I guess there maybe some headroom as the car is running rich but I worried about straying from an OEM map and using a generic "universal" map at £300/400 is.... a lot!

Noise.... I would be happy with the Milltek catback, after hearing one it sounds great. However, both manifold and cat back would probably be too much. Even just the manifold with the stock cat back could be too much (?) I'd like to keep it civil under 3000rpm living in a built up area.

I'm loathed to change my current brake setup (pads/discs) until they need servicing, only just had them done about 3000 miles ago and brake fluid changed. Looking back knowing what I know now I would have probably gone with the GTT spiroslots, but hey it's a learning process.

My nearest sponsors are 1320 (80miles) and Minispeed (30 miles), cheers

[r1_kde]

Hi

I would advise the following cheap mods

* Braided hoses
* One ball conversion or new exhaust, check my post about exhausts!
* Maybe change to a face lift blower?? 10bhp there
* have a crank pulley for some extra torque

TBH I would go for a different intercooler though the GP is good. If money is ok consider a CAM from 1320 or maybe a JCW head off ebay and a CAM??

Get the Bypass valve looked at! Don't forget new plugs a shade cooler

What about a larger throttle body, 2 ways about it, buy one done or if you know anyone get one modified.

[THEWORKSMINI]

The yo-yo'ing effect will be reduced by adjusting the bypass valve. BMW factory set the valve slightly open the result of this is less/reduced boost at light throttle movements. Give me a shout I can help you with this and any other tuning ventures, you are about fifty mins away from me.

Lee

[batou]

The one ball is a bit too loud, I like the milltek and you get the bonus of looking more "worksey" if you get me. Braided hoses looks like a no brainer, whats fitting like on these things?

I have thought of a face lift blower and eyed a few up on ebay. I might buy one in the later part of this year as the labors quite a bit to change one over I'd imagine. I'd be surprised to see 10hp from one, though??

The 2-3% crank pulley gives the effect of a -17% SC pulley right? Any adverse side effects from one of these? It would be a GTT item as I can't see any others that have an interference fit.

Bypass valve.... Hmm, that is something I've wondered but I having the mechanics to know what I'm doing with the bypass valve thanks for the offer of help Lee, I guess thats deffo one point of call.

I was thinking of asking BMW to reflash my ECU to the latest software too, not only is yo-yo'ing a bit the ASC is a bit strong. It used to feather the power through now it just kills it all on most occasions.

[r1_kde]

Hi,

If the one ball is too loud thats cool, did you see my post about the exhausts by torque flow? they could do a full system at a good price.

A facelift blower is supposed to give 10bhp but who knows, it would make sence at higher speeds. fitting is under £200 I think it is about £180 at a tuner.

A crank change will give you about 17% if you use a 2% and will have more torque than a 17% reduction on its own. probably best to go with GTT or Alta

You really should get the bypass seen too, also along the lines of boost loss maybe some new intercooler boots...

Don't pay BMW to play with the ecu, you would be better off resetting it.

[batou]

Quote: Originally Posted by r1_kde (original)

Hi,

If the one ball is too loud thats cool, did you see my post about the exhausts by torque flow? they could do a full system at a good price.

They are too far from me for it to be worthwhile, I had a look on the site and wasn't that keen on the designs tbh. I've heard the Milltek and it fits the bill for sound and looks plus it's tried and tested by many on here.

Quote: Originally Posted by r1_kde (original)

A facelift blower is supposed to give 10bhp but who knows, it would make sence at higher speeds. fitting is under £200 I think it is about £180 at a tuner.

I thought it was the mix of the new blower and ecu software (better ignition/fueling etc) that gave the 7-8bhp over the pre-facelift? I know it's better for boost though so it's a maybe, like I say more towards the end of the year.

Quote: Originally Posted by r1_kde (original)

A crank change will give you about 17% if you use a 2% and will have more torque than a 17% reduction on its own. probably best to go with GTT or Alta

Cool, I like the sound of that... just interested to hear if there are any draw backs. Deffo GTT as it is alloy but with a steel fitting (as the shaft is steel) whereas the Alta is all alloy and an alloy to steel fitting is well... tbh, poor engineering right?

Quote: Originally Posted by r1_kde (original)

You really should get the bypass seen too, also along the lines of boost loss maybe some new intercooler boots...

Yea, I really wanna do this but I'm at a total loss as to doing this myself. I've seen the thread instructions but wouldn't know where to start. Boots seem expensive but I have thought about that.

Quote: Originally Posted by r1_kde (original)

Don't pay BMW to play with the ecu, you would be better off resetting it.

I've reset it before and it made little or no difference, I heard of at least one other person who had their pre-facelift flashed with a post (2005) software and it alleviated most if not all of their ASC issues. It also had updated fuel/ignition mapping with still enough built in safety. I don't think it cost much to have that done either.

Cheers for the responses

[r1_kde]

Don't know about the map in terms of the new one as I am in a JCW with a 2007 map. your correct about the steel to steel, it does ware less. also steel and some allys can create a catalyst between the two.

I have not done the bypass either but I know I need to, if anyone from the midlands wants to help me... I could do it but experience is always good. When I tried it last, it rained and rained, so I got halfway through and put it back together as I was freezing and wet.

[DaFlake]

Quote: Originally Posted by THEWORKSMINI (original)

The yo-yo'ing effect will be reduced by adjusting the bypass valve. BMW factory set the valve slightly open the result of this is less/reduced boost at light throttle movements. Give me a shout I can help you with this and any other tuning ventures, you are about fifty mins away from me.

Lee

I had deleted this as the post came across as being promotional but I was PM'd by Lee and he informed me that he would be doing this for free and is only offering his help. For what it is worth, the yo-yo can be resolved with the valve adjustment. I installed a Detroit tuned valve and the car is highly responsive. However, I do miss the subtle transition of the old valve. I am holding on it just in case I change my mind.

[MINI-Morgan]

Lets think....

A flowed head and cams might make a nice difference

Changing the supercharger will only help slightly and is slightly more effiicient. Worth the money on ebay? I'm not convinced myself....

Defiantly take the bypass valve out and adjust so that it closes correctly with no leakage Also check for the good old broken spring...

What brake fluid are you running? Dot 5?

All depends how much you want to spend finding more ponies

[BigShow]

I'd wait to find out what spec 1320's customer car is and copy that!!

http://www.mini2.com/forum/engine-dr...-272-6bhp.html

[batou]

Haha, now thats a tad mental!!! That RMW head, sure does sound interesting

The power is really something long term, I'm no rush, and I plan to keep this car for as long as £££ will allow, I love it!

In the short term I'm looking to make it more responsive and feel "quicker", so having looked at a few threads I think I'm gonna whip out the BPV and have a butchers at that. Theres a few revisions of it on RealOEM so if the spring is knackered and the part isn't too dear I might fit a new one.

The charger is not really a priority and I'd see it as a possible change if this one fails.

I just had a brake fluid change at BMW under TLC so I'm in no hurry to change that unless it's necessary when changing to braided hoses. I understand it's better that standard and even better still when temperatures go up but it's mainly cost.

[r1_kde]

You don't need to change all your brake fluid for a line change! just wip off your wheels, take off the brake line put new on then start to bleed the brakes.

I think the spring will be fine in the bypass but if not I have a spare...

maybe its worth getting the blower now as prices will soon start to rocket, I think in 4 years time we could be looking at £400 on ebay for a use blower.

[arvin]

Personally, i think you should sell your car, buy a cooper, then turbo it

[r1_kde]

That's sounds a bit of a silly comment, for the money he could have 300+ BHP without the though of his engine/gearbox blowing up...

Don't get your common sense or is it a joke? The way you are pushing your idea for this turbo a few of us will be hoping you do it soon. then 1320 will be able to sell another engine...

[arvin]

lol i was jokin relax

[James]

Quote: Originally Posted by arvin (original)

Personally, i think you should sell your car, buy a cooper, then turbo it

Why would he downgrade to a cooper first? I don't understand that Why turbo a cooper when he has a supercharged S already??? makes no sense!!!!

[r1_kde]

ok cool

[batou]

Well I fitted the GP Intercooler on Saturday, I had a look at doing the bypass but I bottled it. I knew I could probably get it to bits to look at but I got the feeling I'd struggle putting it back. Taking the horns off the charger and removing the TB etc... ahh well.

Went out for a good spirited drive and afterwards, where the old intercooler would pretty much melt the skin off my hand it was just warm to the touch. As far as a difference, well it does feel more responsive, I'm not sure how but after giving it the beans for an extended period it seems to feel stronger and pull better. Overall I'm pleased, in fairness I got it to safeguard the engine so I guess its a bonus. I would have gone GRS but this was less than half the price .

I have a GTech pro that I've used now and again and gave it a quick go on one stretch and it reported 0-60 in 6.39s and 14.64s @101.2 Mph for the 1/4mile. This was one try on a road surface that wasn't favorable, with quite a bit of loose stones on the surface so had to feather the power through 1st and 2nd. I've never been serious about the Gtech but I guess it's better than a mate with a stop watch .

Few pics (Std intercooler on the right for comparison)...