[tuscan_thunder]

Hi,

I have a Cooper with a 57i kit on it. I looked at it yesterday and decided the airflow into the engine was a bit poor. the standard air intake is blocked by the bonnet (mini badge).

I have left on the standard air pipe and bent it to aim straight onto the 57i. Looking, i could see that a pipe could run from beneath the car, upwards, onto the induction.

3ft of heat resistant air ducting pipe (£5 from local car shop). ty-rap the pipe onto the engine mount, and drill a wee hole on the underside of the front bumper bit. ty-rap on there.

the pipe is bent to catch air underneath the car and aim it upwards to the kit. it should work because the pipe is in an area of LOW pressure and hence there should be a venturi-effect/ram effect to suck the air upwards. (a lot of drag cars have air intakes in areas of low pressure).

the car definitely pulls harder when above 4500rpm now, especially in 3rd. 4th and 5th. (probably more airflow). i swear its louder too but that could be subliminal!

got to be worth it for only 5 quid? the worst it can do is add a wee bit more cold air onto the filter. and the pipe is flexible so if it gets a knock, then it just either bounces back into shape or you squeeze it back.

[dansmini]

Quote: Originally Posted by tuscan_thunder

Hi,

I have a Cooper with a 57i kit on it. I looked at it yesterday and decided the airflow into the engine was a bit poor. the standard air intake is blocked by the bonnet (mini badge).

I have left on the standard air pipe and bent it to aim straight onto the 57i. Looking, i could see that a pipe could run from beneath the car, upwards, onto the induction.

3ft of heat resistant air ducting pipe (£5 from local car shop). ty-rap the pipe onto the engine mount, and drill a wee hole on the underside of the front bumper bit. ty-rap on there.

the pipe is bent to catch air underneath the car and aim it upwards to the kit. it should work because the pipe is in an area of LOW pressure and hence there should be a venturi-effect/ram effect to suck the air upwards. (a lot of drag cars have air intakes in areas of low pressure).

the car definitely pulls harder when above 4500rpm now, especially in 3rd. 4th and 5th. (probably more airflow). i swear its louder too but that could be subliminal!

got to be worth it for only 5 quid? the worst it can do is add a wee bit more cold air onto the filter. and the pipe is flexible so if it gets a knock, then it just either bounces back into shape or you squeeze it back.

If possible, post up some picks of what you've done here. Sounds interesting to me!

[tuscan_thunder]

i'll see what i can do for pics but no promises i'm afraid. (camera bit duff and i'm no computer dude!)

i'll try to describe a bit more clearly this time:

if you remove the airbox or have a cone filter in, look directly down from it. you can see the ground.

the pipe (flexible) i pushed up from under the car to just touch the bottom of the filter. tightened a ty-rap round the (near) top of the pipe. then linked another ty-rap round the engine mount and linked that rap to the first one. did the same at the bottom through the little hole i drilled in the plastic valance bit. (flat in line with bottom of car).

the hose is bent around 75 degrees at the base so that it faces forwards to grab as much air as poss.

i reckon that this will at least let in a bit more cold air so got to be worth a bash! and for £5! (there is a Ram Air pipe which has a plastic finish top and bottom. costs £24!)

i'll try to have a go at some photos.

[moonshine]

Quote: Originally Posted by tuscan_thunder

i'll see what i can do for pics but no promises i'm afraid. (camera bit duff and i'm no computer dude!)

i'll try to describe a bit more clearly this time:

if you remove the airbox or have a cone filter in, look directly down from it. you can see the ground.

the pipe (flexible) i pushed up from under the car to just touch the bottom of the filter. tightened a ty-rap round the (near) top of the pipe. then linked another ty-rap round the engine mount and linked that rap to the first one. did the same at the bottom through the little hole i drilled in the plastic valance bit. (flat in line with bottom of car).

the hose is bent around 75 degrees at the base so that it faces forwards to grab as much air as poss.

i reckon that this will at least let in a bit more cold air so got to be worth a bash! and for £5! (there is a Ram Air pipe which has a plastic finish top and bottom. costs £24!)

i'll try to have a go at some photos.

hmm. just watch out for a nice big puddle diverting gallons of water through the engine bay and over all the electrics . air filter etc

you can have a look in my gallery for an alternative

all the best,

gerry

[tuscan_thunder]

na min, i think the pipe is too long for that to happen. plus, after the recent floods, everything is fine. water was lying about 8 inches deep in some places and it coped fine.

all the electrics are sealed and i think even the standard filter/airbox is just as prone (or not prone, as the case may be) to flooding as my set up.

the pipe is 3ft and has two kinks in it so i don't think water will travel that far and get round corners.

that's my thoughts.

the car DEFINITELY pulls harder above about 50mph and over 4500rpm.

::edited:: looked at your gallery photos. i have already heated and moulded the standard air pipe to make it point straight onto the filter. it sits about 2 inches lower than your cold air feed.

also, i think the airflow through the bonnet grille is poor. i looked at where the slats in the grille aim to and it's below the standard air intake. plus any air coming in there is bound to be a bit warm from the radiator (i know my pipe will heat a bit from the engine) that's why I took air from somewhere else (ie. under car).

[punkeyfunky]

Quote: Originally Posted by tuscan_thunder

[ snip ]

if you remove the airbox or have a cone filter in, look directly down from it. you can see the ground.

Not on a CVT Cooper.

-Lee

[dansmini]

Quote: Originally Posted by punkeyfunky

Not on a CVT Cooper.

-Lee

That stinks. Sorry, Lee.

[punkeyfunky]

Quote: Originally Posted by dansmini

That stinks. Sorry, Lee.

I'm not beaten yet

I know that I need to suck in cold air from somewhere, it's just a case of where. I've toyed with the idea of shrouding the filter in something, and running some sort of ducting to suck cold air in from the vents under the windscreen/windshield[1]

The other idea, more drastic, is to create a bonnet vent of some kind. I'm less keen on that idea, as it means cutting metal...

Hmm....

-Lee

[1] Depending on whether you speak UK english or US english

[dansmini]

Quote: Originally Posted by punkeyfunky

I'm not beaten yet

I know that I need to suck in cold air from somewhere, it's just a case of where. I've toyed with the idea of shrouding the filter in something, and running some sort of ducting to suck cold air in from the vents under the windscreen/windshield[1]

The other idea, more drastic, is to create a bonnet vent of some kind. I'm less keen on that idea, as it means cutting metal...

Hmm....

-Lee

[1] Depending on whether you speak UK english or US english

Lee,

Let us know what you decide to do. I agree, the hood vent seems most logical and functional, but thinking of it and actually doing it are two VERY different things! Scary!
Perhaps an S bonnet?

[Jeffy]

I have just recently bought an '02 with cvt and I wonder what temp the engine runs at, since the airflow through the front of the car is really limited. I think they should use the lower piece (under the grill) from the S on all models, as it has a larger opening to the stack of heat exchangers. I am thinking about using the right side vent under the windshield as an outlet for engine room heat by making an opening in the sealed box which houses the anti-lock brake pump and plumbing. I believe that the only thing saving the engine from running overly hot is a pretty high flow electric fan, but what if you gave the heat an escape rout as I described? -Jeffy.

[obehave]

Quote: Originally Posted by Jeffy

I have just recently bought an '02 with cvt and I wonder what temp the engine runs at, since the airflow through the front of the car is really limited. I think they should use the lower piece (under the grill) from the S on all models, as it has a larger opening to the stack of heat exchangers. I am thinking about using the right side vent under the windshield as an outlet for engine room heat by making an opening in the sealed box which houses the anti-lock brake pump and plumbing. I believe that the only thing saving the engine from running overly hot is a pretty high flow electric fan, but what if you gave the heat an escape rout as I described? -Jeffy.

I've said it before but not many listen. Opening that hole in the wall lets underhood temps and fumes into your HVAC system. Not a good idea.

I have an S but my fan almost never runs if I don't run the AC.

Read this thread

[Jeffy]

Well, I am listening and don't want to cause a new problem to solve another. I don't want to change the outward appearance of the car, but I will continue to look for a way to cool the engine more efficiently, since I live in south Texas: 95 degrees and air conditioning on. I lifted the car for a look at the underside (was impressed by the obvious effort at chassis and suspension ridgidity), and saw a fan seemingly directed at the power steering pump. I was surprised at how much plastic is behind the radiator. I can understand a fan shroud, but this is too flat against it to be a good shroud. Any input on this? -Jeffy.