[kfmuller]

I've got a 2005 MCS (U.S. no rear fog). I purchased the rear fog light and the toggle switch upgrade, but I'm having trouble installing the rear light. I looked at the Motoringfile.com install instructions for the complete 2005 rear light install, but it wasn't helpful for my problem.

When you remove the plastic piece that covers the rear fog light hole there is supposed to be a wire or wires in the hole with a connector to attach to the fog light. I see and feel the wires in there, but I cannot see a connector anywhere in there. Has anybody done this mod and if you have, where is the connector for the light?



Thanks,



Karl

[aautobee]

Karl,

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers for the fog light would you? I have looked on my 2nd week august build and have the same situation you do with the taped up wires but no connector? If I find any info I will post it here...

-Andy

[lukebuzzy]

If there is no connector it probably needs a new rear light wire harness.

[lukebuzzy]

I found a diagram in this pdf:

http://www.motoringfile.com/files/2005_taillights.pdf

[kfmuller]

Thanks - I looked at the diagram you reference in your post, but I think this is for folks with pre 05 models who want to put the 05 rear lights in. The part no. for the fog lamp is: 63 24 6 933 275. I spoke with the parts guy at my dealer and he seems to think the connector is in there somewhere, but like I said, I can't find it anywhere close to the hole. The red light looks better than the dummy plate added by the factory, but I sure would like to hook it up to really work. Guess I'll have to take it to the dealer.

[steebo777]

Big bummer on this situation for me. I've got a second week July build 2005 MCS, and have been wanting the rear foggie. Well just found this thread on NAM that pretty much says I am SOL. Oh well, I put the rear light back there for now. It does look better than the black piece of plastic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozbone:
So if your '05 was built BEFORE 10/14/04 what can you do?

Originally Posted by kfmuller:
Spoke to the parts individual at Classic and he said if your car was built between July and 10/14/04 you are SOL.

[lukebuzzy]

Lovely, my Mini was built in the first week of July. Can't we just order the wiring harness and install that?

Luke

[aautobee]

When I remove the black cover, there is a bundle of wires running across that are taped up with electrical tape. Does anybody know what these are? Maybe there will be a retrofit kit that has the wires to splice into these?!?! I will see if I can find anything out tomorrow. I am going to the dealer to pick up the fog light itself.

-Andy

[jonnyyellow]

a few questions..:

1. How much was the rear fog light and the the toggle panel?

2. How do you take out the dummy plate? (does it snap out?, how?, push in?)

3. What does SOL mean? So out of luck?>

[aautobee]

I don't know the $$$ of the the toggle but I think they run about $75, the dealer charged me $23 for the light it self. And yes the blanking plate just pops out (at leats on mine)

-Andy

[steebo777]

Can you buy the wiring to retrofit the rear foggie? That might solve issues. Either that or I'm going to somehow do it myself.

[twouptons]

Quote: Originally Posted by aautobee

I don't know the $$$ of the the toggle but I think they run about $75, the dealer charged me $23 for the light it self. And yes the blanking plate just pops out (at leats on mine)

-Andy

That's what I was just quoted for the pair. The switches were in stock, the light is now on order. There are apparently six different versions of the switch bank, depending on your options...

Has anyone got quotes for install? Or even just "activation"

-Eric

[Gr8Dain]

I just picked up my new switch panel and light ($75 and $23, respectively) last night. I got quoted .5 hrs labor for the activation ($50). They said an extra 1 hr labor for the installation. I went home and put the light in the bumper. 1 minute tops. Of course I had the plug already for it. Dec '04 build. What an improvement!!!

Now to get the switch panel out. I cannot believe that it will take me 59 more minutes to do it. I will probably do it tonight. I just have a hard time paying the dealer $100 for this simple installation. Unfortunately, I can't do the programing. I will use the FAQ to "rip" the knee bolster off and get to the downtubes. Tat is well written and has taken the fear out of my tearing the interior apart

Dain

[Gr8Dain]

OK. Done. It did take about an hour to get the switch panel swapped. But then, I was taking my sweet time to ensure that I did not scratch or break anything. The right up in the FAQ is great.

Just saved myself a bit. Does this count as our first 'mod'? Too bad I have to get it to the dealer for activation. Now I have to take some pics of the installed product.

[twouptons]

Quote: Originally Posted by Gr8Dain

OK. Done. It did take about an hour to get the switch panel swapped. But then, I was taking my sweet time to ensure that I did not scratch or break anything. The right up in the FAQ is great.

Just saved myself a bit. Does this count as our first 'mod'? Too bad I have to get it to the dealer for activation. Now I have to take some pics of the installed product.

I did the lamp itself yesterday. It took me two minutes, since I couldn't get the masking tape off the wires

For those who are wondering how to get the blank out, you can reach underneath the car to the area around the blank. There are two clips on the blank. Squeeze the clips and push, and the blank should pop right out of the bumper. The wiring for the lamp is above the blank. Ours was taped up with beige masking tape (not electrical tape), and folded over so at first I didn't see the connector.

Even inoperative, the red lamp looks far better on the back of the car than the black blank. Makes me think MINI should have used a red reflector rather than the black thing.

I'm hoping to do the switch bank this weekend...

-Eric

[Gr8Dain]

Quote: Originally Posted by twouptons

I did the lamp itself yesterday. It took me two minutes, since I couldn't get the masking tape off the wires

For those who are wondering how to get the blank out, you can reach underneath the car to the area around the blank. There are two clips on the blank. Squeeze the clips and push, and the blank should pop right out of the bumper. The wiring for the lamp is above the blank. Ours was taped up with beige masking tape (not electrical tape), and folded over so at first I didn't see the connector.

Even inoperative, the red lamp looks far better on the back of the car than the black blank. Makes me think MINI should have used a red reflector rather than the black thing.

I'm hoping to do the switch bank this weekend...

-Eric

The lamp was quick. And I agree that they should have come with a red reflector. But then, maybe I would not have opted for the conversion.

Mine was wrapped the same way. I do wish I had smaller hands though. Getting at the wires and unwrapping the masking tape was a little tricky. Did not want to get a knife near those wires, so just used two fingers to play with the tape until it came off.

Wait until you get the switch panel in. It really looks a lot better inside. I did not think it would make a huge difference, but looking at a complete panel rather than the old one is MUCH better.

Good luck with the switch install. If you use the FAQ, I suggest using the method of pulling the dash panels out a little (unclip the lower part of the dash panels) to get the tubes off. I went to remove the cup holders and gate panel at first, but could not get the side mirror clips loose. So ended up doing the dash method. Much easier (for me). And noticed that I had no bolts holding the dash panel on at all

Dain

[twouptons]

Quote: Originally Posted by Gr8Dain

Good luck with the switch install. If you use the FAQ, I suggest using the method of pulling the dash panels out a little (unclip the lower part of the dash panels) to get the tubes off. I went to remove the cup holders and gate panel at first, but could not get the side mirror clips loose. So ended up doing the dash method. Much easier (for me). And noticed that I had no bolts holding the dash panel on at all

Dain

Dain,

Did you have any problem with the hazard lights/dimmer trim rings popping off? I was reading on GBMINI's web site where he had posted a "2005 update" for the tube removal, and the person who had done it for him said their trim rings came off. I was looking at the car last night, and there doesn't really seem to be any way for that to happen, so I was wondering if he was just mistaken or a bit too aggressive when pulling trim...

Since we have no bolts, is the dash panel just a "lift-and-pull" sort of thing then? Are there clips holding it in or just friction and gravity?
The FAQs don't really say (since they're for pre-2005)
-Eric

[Gr8Dain]

Well, the trim rings did not come loose at all. They seemed to be attached to the face plate (gray) which comes off with the rounded piece that is the alloy patina in my car. I did not pull any more that necessarry to get the tubes out from under the panel.

There are definitely clips to hold it on. You can hear them release. In fact, the center piece is overlapped by both side pieces and the center ends of both end pieces came unclipped as well in order to provide clearance.

When the tubes were reinstalled, it simply took a slight bump of my fist to 'pop' the clips right back into place.

I will say that I grabbed the center panel right under the lip directly outside of the tubes and pulled evenly and slowly. I did not want the clips to give and me to end up ripping the entire thing off. I might have been too cautious, but better safe than sorry.

You might try the lower end method by removing the shift gate and cup holder trim. I simply could not get the metal clips for the mirror switch to release without applying a screwdriver and did not want to slip and gouge the plastic.

Good luck.

[duboy]

Thanks for clearing up how to remove the downtubes on a 2005 MCS...Gr8Dain. I tried to follow a pre-05 DIY and was confused when my dash trim wasn't held on by torx screws. I took my poor MCS apart once, got confused with the screws, put it back together, watched a movie, searched the web, and took it apart again :-) it's so painful to see it in peices.

Now that my new toggle panel is installed, things look better, all I need to do is get the dealer to program it.

My question is...there is felt that lines the contact point of the downtubes to the center stack...now that i've taken it apart, and put it back together, i notice the felt peeking out between the peices, is that normal? or did I knock the felt off kilter when I was wrestling with the downtubes?

[Gr8Dain]

I fear that you have knocked the felt out of alignment. I do not have the felt peeking out. I noticed it when I took mine apart, but it is not apparent now that it is all back together. Where exactly do you see it? Maybe you could trim it with an exacto knife (razor blade). Be careful though. I might just take the downtubes off again and see where it has slid. Maybe it has always peeked out and you never noticed it before. Either way, it would bug me until I corrected it.

Good luck,

Dain