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Old May 3rd, 2008, 10:47 PM   #1
Badcop
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02 S With No AC???

SO far our coop has lost all cold air!! Ive recharged the R134 and confirmed the Condensor is kicking on, also removed the charcoal filter and still have 0 cold air. Has anyone had this problem and if theres a known fix?
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Old May 3rd, 2008, 11:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
mab01uk
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Do you have Manual air con or auto air con (climate control)? More things to go wrong on auto a/c such as the servo controlled flaps, controls or sensors not functioning properly so the cold air doesn't reach the right places!
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Old May 4th, 2008, 12:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
Badcop
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Quote: Originally Posted by mab01uk (original)
Do you have Manual air con or auto air con (climate control)? More things to go wrong on auto a/c such as the servo controlled flaps, controls or sensors not functioning properly so the cold air doesn't reach the right places!

Its climate control. As for flaps opening and closing, theres no cold air at all. I have good pressure and I have temp shift just no cold air when the ac is on.
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Old May 4th, 2008, 09:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
mab01uk
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On climate control if the flaps (internal to the heater /AC unit) are not being told to open by the control panel and sensors or opened to the correct positions by the servo motors the cold air from the evaporator can't be ducted to the vents by the fan.
BMW diagnostics may be required to confirm the actual fault first as access to some parts of the heater / ac involves removal of some or all of the dash..
Unit is shown in detail here:-
RealOEM.COM * BMW R50 One 1.6i ACTUATOR, HEATER AND AIR CONDIT.
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Old May 5th, 2008, 12:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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You say you recharged the aircon system, was it leak tested before you regassed it? was it low on gas before? If it was, did you have the system vac'd out to dry it out?
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Old May 5th, 2008, 02:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
Badcop
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Aye, it was vac'd then recharged, it wasnt low, but due to its year and the climate shifts we have in Utah, US, it was suggested, it wasnt low to begin with.

As for the diagram, the #3 servo appears to be the culprit, I pulled my glove box last night, and discovered some issues right away. First off, never let a teen ager mess with a car, the PO had installed an alarm that was attached to the recirc box and the screws holding it in had sealed the door shut. Second was there were a bunch of loose wires associated with it that then attached to the the auto locks, after removing all this, the recirc now works, and my auto locks work again

The AC problem still exists though, As far as I can tell right now is the #3 servo (from the attached diagram) is attached to a lever that then extends to the bottom of the climate box. I plan to detach the lever this evening and manually shift it to see if there in lies the problem.
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Old May 5th, 2008, 08:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
mab01uk
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Let us know how you get on.
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Old May 5th, 2008, 10:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
Badcop
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Ok so its a bust and all 3 servos work fine,

Servo 1 controls Outside/Recirc air door
Servo 2 contrls Defrost/dash/floor
Servo 3 controls temp.

I have great air flow, and hot hot air. I also when turning on the AC have cooler air, not cold just cooler than with the heat on.
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Old May 5th, 2008, 10:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
Badcop
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heres a thought, even though my compressor is kicking on/engaging, could it be garbage?
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Old May 5th, 2008, 10:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
mab01uk
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The two A/C pipes running through the engine bulkhead to the evaporator inside the car.............one should be colder to touch once the compressor kicks in?
RealOEM.COM * BMW R50 One 1.6i COOLANT LINES
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Old May 6th, 2008, 05:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
Badcop
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checked last night, even thought the compressor is engaging neither line is cooler than the other, I even rechecked the r134 level and Im still ful, so no leaks.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 09:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
mab01uk
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When the A/C system is operating correctly the pressure pipe (3) - condenser to evaporator (see diagram link below) should be warm before it enters the expansion valve (which is inside the bulkhead), the evaporator inside the car should of course then be very cold (after the expansion valve), the suction pipe (4) out the evaporator back to the compressor should also be cold, the other pressure pipe (1 & 2) from the compressor back to the condenser should be hot.
Pipe / Hose Diagram :-
RealOEM.COM * BMW R50 One 1.6i COOLANT LINES

Check also if the condenser rad electric cooling fan is coming on especially when the car is stationary, cooling fan faults can lead to excessive condenser temperatures which may operate the compressor high pressure cut-out switch.
Check compressor drive belt and tension is ok (no slipping).
Hope this helps as we are running out of the easy diy checks !
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