Tracking CVTs

[strz0001]

5/02 build CVT failed at 110,642. I bought it and put in a reman CVT and have put 10k miles since.

[mini_macky]

12/01 (2002 model) CVT
21,000+ miles
no problems (knock on wood)

i use it only on the weekends, you can say i drive my CVT pretty hard on fun runs

[courtinnyc]

2004 CVT
42K miles on second transmission...
original transmission was replaced at around 800 miles.

[Sejanus]

Figured I'd bump this thread every time I passed a 10K mark. My '02 just past 70,000 miles today, which means I'm entering into the apparent danger zone for CVTs. We'll see.

At the moment we have 14 currently operating CVTs posted on here and no reported problems after 5 weeks. It's a start.

[cbudt13]

This is a long CVT story but if you have one you will find out how badly BMW dealers treat Mini owners. You will also learn how to get a CVT fix and how to do it yourself. I have a 2002 MC with a CVT. I drive totally in “Manual” mode. Purchased July 2002. In January 2003 the EML light came on and Mini “went into Limp Mode” (BMW terminology), twice. The fix was replacement of a “wiring harness”. not otherwise defined. In Warranty so the fix was fast and easy. In October 2006 (three months out of warranty) AT 46,500 miles, the CVT went into “Limp Mode” and the EP warning light came on. The BMW dealer said the CVT was burned up and it would cost me $6,000 but the good news is that they have the CVT units in stock. Who stocks transmissions??? I elected to have my foreign car specialist replace the CVT Position Sensor and the Range Sensor $640.00. Mini ran great for ten days , then back to Limp Mode and EP. Then the battery died and would not take a charge. Called BMW dealer. “Have it hauled in and we will analyze it.” AAA hauled it thirty miles to BMW. After ten days BMW called and said that the CVT is OK after all it was just the dead battery that messed up the “Fault Codes”. New battery $96.00, no labor charge. Drove Mini home and ran great for five days and then it would not start in Park and would not release the key. Must start in Neutral and leave the key in the ignition. Web search found a Mini owner with the same problem and got a fix from him (more later). BMW wanted me to drive it back in and to pay for analyzing the new problems that started after they installed a new battery and reset fault codes. I mentioned the fix from the web guy and they said “Oh Yeah that might work too!" After all this and talking to my local foreign car specialist, who recently sent his son Eric to Germany to the BMW school, I can share the following information with Mini CVT owners and all BMW owners.
1. Never allow a BMW, product with and auto transmission, to idle for any period of time more than absolutely necessary because the trans circulating pump is driven by the drive line. Idling in stalled traffic etc overheats , and burns up, the trans due to cavitation by the torque converter. Mini owners: Check out your Owner Manual where it says “Do not warm up your Mini, just start it and drive off”. This is why.!!
2. BMW dealers tell you that the transmission fluid never needs to be changed. Wrong, the BMW school teaches the mechanics that the original fluid is “break-in fluid” and must be changed at 30,000 miles and that it is not lifetime thereafter but good for 300,000 miles. Mini owners: did you notice that you have no trans dipstick???
3. When your Mini “goes into Limp Mode” your CVT is fine, don’t buy a new one. It probably is a weak battery that trips the default codes. That is what the EP warning in place of the “D” “SD” or “1’ on the instrument panel means (End of Program = EP) .
4. If you can’t start in “P” or can’t remove the key, your program is telling the Mini that you are still in gear when you are not. Believe it or not the easy fix (confirmed by the BMW dealer) is to pull straight up on the shifter as if you are pulling the CVT up thru the floor. It will pop out ( just like the old Ford Model A did). Put it back onto the spindle that is left sticking up from the CVT and pound it back down into place with your fist or a rubber mallet. This should fix the problem (it did for me). If not, then pull it up off again and remove the round collar and leather boot by hand. You will see a wiring harness connection. Unplug it and replug it to clear corrosion etc from the contacts. Put the collar, boot and shifter back on. This will fix it. You can also have any mechanic do this for you if you don’t want to do it.
5. If you plan to keep your Mini past the 50,000/4 year warranty, buy the extended warranty before it runs out. I tried to buy it now at 46,500/ 4 years + 3 months and balked at the $2000.00 price tag.
I’m selling it and no more Beemers for me ever.

[DOT191]

Quote: Originally Posted by Sejanus (original)

Figured I'd bump this thread every time I passed a 10K mark. My '02 just past 70,000 miles today, which means I'm entering into the apparent danger zone for CVTs. We'll see.

At the moment we have 14 currently operating CVTs posted on here and no reported problems after 5 weeks. It's a start.

We own a 2003 MC. It has the CVT. We took Delivery on 03/01/03. It only has 19,100 original miles. We rarely us the Mini during the Winter Months for long trips. Round trip for me to work is only 7 Miles. No problems with the Car at all. According to the Mfgr. of the CVT the fluid should be Changed at appx 30,000 miles. So, i have a way to go before i do this. The Mfgr also states there is aa oil Drain Plug & a top Filler plug.

[DOT191]

2003 MC with CVT. Only 19,100 original Miles. No problems with CVT. Even though Both Mini & the Mfgr ( ZF Getrieb) state you change fluid at around 30,000 Miles i am considering having it done sooner that.

[RobFriedman]

2003 MC (picked up on May (memorial Day 03) with 59K
driven every day to work (wife) and a lot of Long Island Rallies on weekends. Not ultra fast but just driven.

no problems since software updates at the very beginning.

wondering how worried should I be??? I love the car.. my wife says I should trade it in. (I'ld like to get another one (R56 or the Traveller) later.. but would like to hold onto this.. no engine mods.. just minor interior mods..

I like to call this my 'touring" edition

oh yes.. have driven on the Mountain roads in the White Mtns several times.. again.. no problems ever (other then wondering where the heck we were.. and avoiding moose)

[jazmini]

Jazmini -- 2004 CVT, 20,000 miles, May 2007 -- no problems.

I don't drive that many miles, but do drive to work most days for a short commute of 22 miles round trip. I've got a cat-back exhaust and cold air intake (it doesn't really provide cold air, but that's the old term), but don't drive hard. Occassionally I'll shift spiritedly for a short time, but not really hard on the car, as the only thing that may be considered hard would be my downshifts, which can be in the 3k to 4k rpm range, but usually around 3k, with upshifts around 3k to 4k too. Most of my driving is in D for my mostly freeway commute, but use SD on weekends when not on the freeway.

I'm encouraged that Paul! talked to the MINI dealer, who said that CVTs don't have a high failure rate. I know there is a problem, but Sejanus is trying to find out to what extent it may be, so this thread can help.

[Vanwall]

Just a note on this thread - passed the 100,00 mile mark a coupla days ago, and heading for Arizona this weekend. Jazmini - I, too am running a cat-back and cold air intake - the cat back helped a little on overall HP, but the cold-air made a huge difference in the usable torque. There was a point on many hills where I had to pretty much floor it just to maintain any speed I had, but now if I'm going say, 3,000 RPM, to maintain the same speed, I only have to use another 300 RPM, and that means extra power for emergencies is on tap. The car is much more flexible, and acceleration is better by leaps and bounds. My guess is the HP increase might only be 6 HP or so, but it's enough. The CVT seems trouble-free, and handles the changes with aplomb. I'm also convinced the 'D' setting on the freeway, which is like an overdrive, has helped overall engine life - I bet I'm cruising at at least 1,000 RPM lower than the manual Coopers. Happy Motoring, all!

BCNU,
Rob in Dago

[Sejanus]

Quote: Originally Posted by Vanwall (original)

I bet I'm cruising at at least 1,000 RPM lower than the manual Coopers.

Interesting point. I wonder.

[jazmini]

Quote: Originally Posted by Vanwall (original)

....passed the 100,00 mile mark a coupla days ago, and heading for Arizona this weekend. Jazmini - I, too am running a cat-back and cold air intake - .....Happy Motoring, all!

Wow Vanwall! 100k, that's fantastic! Some CVT MINI's are putting out the mileage indeed. Hopefully, the problems with the CVT are in the minority and most CVTs will hold up well. Time will tell. After reading some recent threads, I'm optimistic. I've made the run from San Diego to Phoenix many times, on I8, so know about the many hills. I had a 1.5L Honda CRX, which struggled with my wife in the car unless you were going really fast to get up the hills, so got a
1.8L Ford Escort for the torque, which helped, but I could smell the transmission fluid get hot if I used a lower gear through the hills (50 miles or so near San Diego), then got a 1.6L Honda Civic, which actually did better as it had much more hp, i.e., 127 vs 90+ in the Escort. I can believe that the CVT will do pretty well I would think, as extra weight and hills don't affect it as much as with other cars. Hope your trip is good. Going this weekend will be much better for traffic than next weekend (Memorial Day weekend). Seeing that you have mods too and are holding up is encouraging! I've felt that adding a small increase in power shouldn't affect things that much. Enjoy!

[Aurel]

2003 with 44000 miles

have a bit of an extended warranty until October 07 or 55K miles as it was a demo when I bought it .. but I think will trade it in before then

been flawless really so far, but these horror stories of failed units and my general bad luck with trannies on previous cars are making me think that way

[joyfulboy]

Sigh...add us to the list of CVT owners being told they need a new transmission to the tune of $8000.

2003; original owner; 80K, regular maintenance, absolutely NO substantial problems prior to now.


I've posted the whole story in the "Attention CVT Owners" thread; any advice is greatly appreciated.

David

[ontheroadagain]

Very sorry to read this. Will go check out that other thread.