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  #31 (permalink)  
Old May 7th, 2010, 11:55 AM
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thanks guys...i eventually got it removed by having to be a bit brutal with it....i also took it apart and cleaned the electonic bit...the pump is back on the car now and working fantasticlly, just waiting to drive it some more...i have taken lots of pictures and hope to write a full diy for anyone esle who decides to recon thier pump.

let it be known that even though pulsey advised that it is a professenals job, mechanically "minded" ppl could also easily pull this off.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old Aug 6th, 2010, 10:25 AM
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Hi Jon, did you ever write up a full diy?

Im thinking of taking mine off and cleaning it to avoid having to buy another, it has got very noisy!
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old Aug 16th, 2010, 10:02 PM
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Burned out computer module

[quote=pulsey;3750211]
Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out 900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old Aug 17th, 2010, 11:54 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Shand B (original)
and yet customers are having to fork out 900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......

Thanks for the pics and write up. No one in their right mind needs to fork out 900 for a main dealer solution............cheaper pumps with warranty are now widely available and any good independent garage can fit it for a couple of hours labour if you don't do diy.

Last edited by mab01uk; Aug 17th, 2010 at 10:17 PM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old Aug 17th, 2010, 07:22 PM
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[quote=Shand B;3773537]
Quote: Originally Posted by pulsey (original)
Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out 900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......

Thanks and well done !!!


As you say all that is needed now is a source (at the right price) for replacement control modules.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old Aug 19th, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by mab01uk (original)
Thanks for the pics and write up. No one in their right mind needs to fork out 900 for a main dealer solution............cheaper pumps with warranty are now widely available and any good independent garage can fit it for a couple of hours labour if you don't do diy.

Quite So: I got a used pump for 70 on eBay. It was sold as working, but nonetheless, I stripped it down for a thorough clean. The computer module was absolutely full of crud but still intact and functional. I didnt get time for photos..... but the lacquer coat was much thicker and better distributed than on my failed unit (photographed earlier)
I seperated the electronics completely, brushed the debris for the PCBs with iso-propyl alchohol. Re-assemnbled then put some araldite in the holes where the 4 power feeds (now soldered to the brush terminals) pass through the shroud.
So far so good, and I sent the original (with the burned out module) to ECU to end up with a re-furbished spare.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old Sep 14th, 2010, 03:12 AM
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this is great!!.. i couldve used this info a few hours ago ... I being overly curious decided today to take apart the pump in my wifes car, from the pics its probably good i didnt have the right torx bit and could only get one side off.. when the cover flew off due to the magnetic force(which i had no idea was going to happen because i had no idea what can of worms i was opening) a huge cloud of dust erupted in my face. coughing and blind i ran out of the shop... ha ha.. when the dust settled, i could finally see what the hell mess i caused and wow.. its a magneto thing.. that cant be conducting electricity covered in dust. i dumped out probably 1/2 a cup of this asphixiating purple dust wiped the contacts banged it around to get more dust out, wiped more and put it back together. Bam!! the steering works, for now.. when it goes out again ill give it a proper clean like you have posted.. thanks for the info.. if you can tell me how to get this horrible taste out of my mouth form the dust let me know,,
Rob
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old Sep 27th, 2010, 05:54 AM
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Hi Guys,

This guide helped me a lot. So thank you!

I stripped my pump out yesterday. Cleaned everything I possible could and bleed the system. It's working now! I was having intermittent problems. Pump
would only work after letting the car sit for a few days. Would only work for about 30 min as well. Since last night no problems.

I want to know about the fan that cools the pump. Does it run off a temperature control or is run constantly and does it run at 12 volts?? Mine wasn't running at all last night so I'm a bit concerned about it. Does anyone know?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old Sep 27th, 2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ryan_cpt (original)
Hi Guys,
I want to know about the fan that cools the pump. Does it run off a temperature control or is run constantly and does it run at 12 volts?? Mine wasn't running at all last night so I'm a bit concerned about it. Does anyone know?

It should not run constantly, this link may help:
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Power Steering cooling fan issue

You should also check the fuse:
MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - Power Steering Fan question
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 04:46 PM
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DIY

[quote=Shand B;3773537]
Quote: Originally Posted by pulsey (original)
Pulsey, Thanks for the great pics and guide. As you can see from my pics, I was too late. The ingress of commutator dust shows up red on the preamp board. Yours and many other posts have identified the same cause of failure.
The electronics are not adequately isolated from the motor unit. Although the exit holes for the power connections are quite small, they can clearly allow the metallic dust through. The lacquering is pretty ropey, If I prod about with a continuity tester I can easily make connections on the exposed tinned surfaces. Hopefully I can send the whole motor off for a rebuild. That is, unless anyone can supply the module alone. I will use the appropriate thread (not this one) to vent my frustration with BMW service.
It seems obvious that this pathology is an inevitable outcome of the flawed design, and yet customers are having to fork out 900 for a solution.
Sorry I started venting......


hi,
I cant open the motor house,
How did you manage to open the motor house and see the module?
Thanks
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old Jan 21st, 2013, 03:32 PM
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As others have said, I'm very glad I came across this thread!

The PSP hasn't failed completely on my 2005 cooper, but there have been other odd symptoms that might be explained by the build-up of carbon on the electronics.

Basically, every now and then the electrics in the car throw a bit of a fit, dashboard indicators flashing randomly (the car almost always cuts out shortly afterwards), headlights 'pulsating' and so on. A few days ago as I was parking the power steering cut out, quickly followed by the whole of the cars electronics. It wouldn't start again for a few minutes. I wondered whether it was a battery/alternator issue, but finding this thread it seems as though I'm probably a victim of the same problem, and hopefully a thorough clean of the PSP will at least cheer her up for a little while.

Has anyone else noticed similar electrical symptoms with a failing/dirty PSP or do I possibly have a secondary problem?!
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old Jan 21st, 2013, 06:58 PM
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With a 2005 Cooper you may get free replacement of pump under 'Goodwill' at a MINI Dealer now.
Scroll down:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...yes-no-71.html
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old Jan 22nd, 2013, 09:23 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by mab01uk (original)
With a 2005 Cooper you may get free replacement of pump under 'Goodwill' at a MINI Dealer now.
Scroll down:

Thanks! It's worth a go. Although with 95k miles and the fact that we can't find the service history documents they may be able to wiggle out of it!
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old Feb 21st, 2013, 04:59 PM
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Pulsey
Thanks very much for the guide, extremely helpful, priceless in fact. I am at the crucial stage of separating the controller from the brush plate. You say on the first picture "When cutting these (the connections) you should cut vertically....." What did you use - it looks almost surgical! On reinstatement do they need to be silver soldered?
Cheers
Andy

Last edited by elebub; Feb 21st, 2013 at 05:03 PM. Reason: clarity
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old Feb 21st, 2013, 10:12 PM
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I'm afraid 'Pulsey' has not been on the forum since 2010 according to his forum details......so may not reply.
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