![]() | ![]() |
| | |
| |||||||
| First Generation Faults & Fixes MINI faults and fixes 2001 - 2006 |
![]() |
| | LinkBack (6) | Thread Tools | Rate Thread |
| |||
| Power Steering Pump DIY My daughter owns a 2001 Cooper with 47k miles. A couple of weeks ago she told me how the steering had "locked", luckily not in a dangerous position and she was able to stop safely. When she restarted the car it performed normally again but was obviously concerned. After she told me I looked on the internet and this site came up and has been a great help. Yes, the pump made a noise when the wheel was turned so I knew a new one was needed. Having seen the prices quoted from Mini or even independant garages I looked into the DIY option. Firstly I bought the Haynes manual to see what was involved and soon realised it was a viable option (the whole job is only 8 sentences). This is my experience of the job. First was to find a pump. I tried a company that reconditioned pumps on exchange but had no luck with them as they never had any any available and not very helpful! Luckily I found GSF who supplied a brand new original equipment pump for not much more than a recon, and it arrived next day. I found the job can be done fairly easily with the front wheels on wheel ramps, a little cramped but safe. Further to the Haynes I would add:- unless you empty the reservoir first be ready for fluid to go everywhere when the hose is disconnected, it runs around the pump then onto the subframe. Also note a new clip is needed as the old one is not reusable. The 2 electrical cables are secured to the pump body with tieclips which will have to be cut and new ones needed for the new pump. Also the tieclip holders will need transfering. With the old pump removed thoroughly clean the location and leave the plugs in the new pump until ready to connect pipe and hose, the smallest bit of dirt or grit could destroy it or shorten its life. The fluid I used was Comma CHF 11S (green) which is recommended for Minis, pour it in slowly then take the weight off the front wheels and turn the steering from lock to lock without the engine running, check the level and then lock to lock with the engine running and the car moving. This should bleed the system easily. The whole job cost under £300.00 including Haynes and fluid and took me about 4 hours. I am not a mechanic but used common sense and followed the book. Lastly please help your pump by not holding the steering wheel on full lock against the stop, only turning the steering wheel when the car is moving (parking etc) and never turn the steering wheel when a front wheel is hard against a kerb. Hope this has been of some help and thanks for the forum. Last edited by ANGLIADELUXE; Oct 23rd, 2008 at 11:57 PM. |
| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to ANGLIADELUXE For This Useful Post: | ||
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
| |||
| Good write up. Personally I think you should have looked into a 'Goodwill' claim from BMW/Mini, might have saved you a bit of money. See this thread http://www.mini2.com/forum/faults-fi...yes-no-19.html and follow my posts (over next few pages) I got mine replaced for c. £100. Bryce |
| |||
| Thank you Bryce. I didn't think to contact BMW/Mini because I assumed the car was too old and they would have no interest, but I see it would have been worth a try. Too late now! Thanks again Neville |
| ||||
| More specifics on changing the Power Steering Pump OK, so I just finished replacing the Power Steering Pump on my '03 MCS. I could not find many specifics on the job, so I am going to try to add some of those here. This was my procedure as I remember it. 1. I used my Mighty Vac to suck as much of the fluid from the reservoir. I couldn't get it all, but at least 90%. 2. Disconnected the low pressure hose from the reservoir (the one toward the front) and again used the Mighty Vac to suck the fluid from the hose. 3. Remove the cooling fan for the pump. (2 13mm nuts) To complete the removal you'll have to disconnect the wire connector, easy release by pushing the lever on the side. 4. Remove the 13mm nut holding the front of the pump down, roughly in between the two that held the fan in place. 5. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the backside of the pump. This is pretty much blind, unless you have some sort of mirror or freakishly small head. You have to come from the backside of the cross memeber and they are at the bottom of the steering rack. You should be able to feel them. The exhaust down pipe made one of them a little tough to get at, but not bad. 6. I used my Dremmel to slot out the hole at the front that the 13mm nut came off. The bracket for the pump was stuck under the engine mount, so I could not lift it out. 7. The high pressure hose is a solid metal tubing that is bolted to the pump with a 13mm bolt. It is a little tight, but you can get it unbolted. There is an o-ring type of press fit for this connection, which you will have to overcome to get it released. Carefully pry it apart. Some fluid will drain out. 8. Now it is just a matter of sliding and twisting the pump around until you can get the pump out. Having the low pressure hose attached made this slightly more difficult, but also made it cleaner. It is also fairly difficult to get the low pressure hose off of the pump while it is on the car. 9. Lastly you can now release the two electrical connections and the pump will be free after you cut the nylon zip ties holding the wires to the bracket. 10. The pump is connected to a bracket which will not come with a new pump, and probably should be removed before sending in to rebuild. Four 10mm nuts and to T30 Torx will separate the pump from the bracket. 11. Now just reverse this process to install. 12. The fluid was available at my local NAPA. Sitting right on the endcap as I walked in the door. I didn't even have to ask for help. $22.50 with tax. 13. I filled the tank, cycled the steering back and forth (while still on jack stands) both with the ignition off and then on. Drove down the street weaving back and forth several times and then checked the fluid level. Eric '03 EB/EB MCS (options 1,2,3,wipe/mirror,HK, Parcel Shelf, Custom Hitch, Rogue Intake & Exhaust, MINI Madness Pulley, Shark Injector ECU) Donate to MINI2 |
| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to ecirwin For This Useful Post: | ||
| |||
| I replaced my PSP over the weekend - the two sets of directions/explanations here were spot on... my only added advice would be to seriously consider slotting the bolt hole in the sub frame - it would definitely ease the removal and replacement for the next round... my process took a little longer than expected (4 hrs total) but I didn't break anything and no parts were left unaccounted for - thanks for the detailed write-ups!! |
| ||||
| It has been a while since I did this, but I am pretty sure it took just the one quart and I had a little left over. Eric '03 EB/EB MCS (options 1,2,3,wipe/mirror,HK, Parcel Shelf, Custom Hitch, Rogue Intake & Exhaust, MINI Madness Pulley, Shark Injector ECU) Donate to MINI2 |
| Thanks for this post from: | ||
| |||
ok great, thanks, i'm thinking to replace the fluid in my cooper S because : 1- the steering makes noise, although i know most minis do. 2- the fluid colour is not red nor green, almost transparent ( like water ) Regards |
| |||
| My old fluid was almost "rusty water" colored... the new Pentosin was green... the liter filled the reservoir with a little left over. It was good the hear the whine again... |
| ||||
| Most of the failures seem linked to the electronic side of the pump, dismantling the motor before a failure and cleaning out accumulated dust and graphite from the brushes area seems to prolong the life or prevent premature failure. Details and pictures on how to here (Post No.3): http://www.totalmini.com/forum/46-20...-failures.html |
| Thanks for this post from: | ||
| |||
| My whine was back after the pump was replaced - and I was glad to hear it!! I agree, the whine is there all the time... I elected to keep my old pump and forfeit the $35 core return - I'll tear it down soon to see what the inside looked like and then have a workable spare ready for the next time... Last edited by ikappedkermit; Jan 28th, 2010 at 03:42 PM. Reason: additional info |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-generation-faults-fixes/163712-power-steering-pump-diy.html | ||||
| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Mini Cooper Miscellaneous Information - SooperCooperInfo.com | This thread | Refback | Jan 27th, 2009 11:24 PM | |
| Powertrain | This thread | Refback | Dec 6th, 2008 10:09 AM | |
| Electrical | This thread | Refback | Dec 3rd, 2008 01:47 AM | |
| Troubleshooting or Repair | This thread | Refback | Nov 22nd, 2008 08:18 PM | |
| DIY | This thread | Refback | Nov 20th, 2008 02:37 PM | |
| After Market Parts | This thread | Refback | Nov 17th, 2008 10:55 PM | |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Rate This Thread | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Power steering Pump replaced-Steering slightly off centre | Rooster | First Generation Faults & Fixes | 4 | Apr 26th, 2010 02:35 PM |
| Power steering pump | GDC | First Generation Faults & Fixes | 0 | Aug 16th, 2005 11:06 PM |
| Power steering Pump | indigorallye | First Generation Faults & Fixes | 15 | Jan 23rd, 2004 01:06 PM |
| Power Steering Pump | virafp | Maintenance & MINI Care | 3 | Sep 15th, 2003 01:31 PM |