My daughter owns a 2001 Cooper with 47k miles. A couple of weeks ago she told me how the steering had "locked", luckily not in a dangerous position and she was able to stop safely. When she restarted the car it performed normally again but was obviously concerned. After she told me I looked on the internet and this site came up and has been a great help. Yes, the pump made a noise when the wheel was turned so I knew a new one was needed. Having seen the prices quoted from Mini or even independant garages I looked into the DIY option. Firstly I bought the Haynes manual to see what was involved and soon realised it was a viable option (the whole job is only 8 sentences). This is my experience of the job. First was to find a pump. I tried a company that reconditioned pumps on exchange but had no luck with them as they never had any any available and not very helpful! Luckily I found GSF who supplied a brand new original equipment pump for not much more than a recon, and it arrived next day. I found the job can be done fairly easily with the front wheels on wheel ramps, a little cramped but safe. Further to the Haynes I would add:- unless you empty the reservoir first be ready for fluid to go everywhere when the hose is disconnected, it runs around the pump then onto the subframe. Also note a new clip is needed as the old one is not reusable. The 2 electrical cables are secured to the pump body with tieclips which will have to be cut and new ones needed for the new pump. Also the tieclip holders will need transfering. With the old pump removed thoroughly clean the location and leave the plugs in the new pump until ready to connect pipe and hose, the smallest bit of dirt or grit could destroy it or shorten its life. The fluid I used was Comma CHF 11S (green) which is recommended for Minis, pour it in slowly then take the weight off the front wheels and turn the steering from lock to lock without the engine running, check the level and then lock to lock with the engine running and the car moving. This should bleed the system easily. The whole job cost under £300.00 including Haynes and fluid and took me about 4 hours. I am not a mechanic but used common sense and followed the book. Lastly please help your pump by not holding the steering wheel on full lock against the stop, only turning the steering wheel when the car is moving (parking etc) and never turn the steering wheel when a front wheel is hard against a kerb. Hope this has been of some help and thanks for the forum.
Last edited by ANGLIADELUXE; Oct 23rd, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
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More specifics on changing the Power Steering Pump
OK, so I just finished replacing the Power Steering Pump on my '03 MCS. I could not find many specifics on the job, so I am going to try to add some of those here. This was my procedure as I remember it.
1. I used my Mighty Vac to suck as much of the fluid from the reservoir. I couldn't get it all, but at least 90%.
2. Disconnected the low pressure hose from the reservoir (the one toward the front) and again used the Mighty Vac to suck the fluid from the hose.
3. Remove the cooling fan for the pump. (2 13mm nuts) To complete the removal you'll have to disconnect the wire connector, easy release by pushing the lever on the side.
4. Remove the 13mm nut holding the front of the pump down, roughly in between the two that held the fan in place.
5. Remove the two 13mm bolts from the backside of the pump. This is pretty much blind, unless you have some sort of mirror or freakishly small head. You have to come from the backside of the cross memeber and they are at the bottom of the steering rack. You should be able to feel them. The exhaust down pipe made one of them a little tough to get at, but not bad.
6. I used my Dremmel to slot out the hole at the front that the 13mm nut came off. The bracket for the pump was stuck under the engine mount, so I could not lift it out.
7. The high pressure hose is a solid metal tubing that is bolted to the pump with a 13mm bolt. It is a little tight, but you can get it unbolted. There is an o-ring type of press fit for this connection, which you will have to overcome to get it released. Carefully pry it apart. Some fluid will drain out.
8. Now it is just a matter of sliding and twisting the pump around until you can get the pump out. Having the low pressure hose attached made this slightly more difficult, but also made it cleaner. It is also fairly difficult to get the low pressure hose off of the pump while it is on the car.
9. Lastly you can now release the two electrical connections and the pump will be free after you cut the nylon zip ties holding the wires to the bracket.
10. The pump is connected to a bracket which will not come with a new pump, and probably should be removed before sending in to rebuild. Four 10mm nuts and to T30 Torx will separate the pump from the bracket.
11. Now just reverse this process to install.
12. The fluid was available at my local NAPA. Sitting right on the endcap as I walked in the door. I didn't even have to ask for help. $22.50 with tax.
13. I filled the tank, cycled the steering back and forth (while still on jack stands) both with the ignition off and then on. Drove down the street weaving back and forth several times and then checked the fluid level.
'03 EB/EB MCS (options 1,2,3,wipe/mirror,HK, Parcel Shelf, Custom Hitch, Rogue Intake & Exhaust, MINI Madness Pulley, Shark Injector ECU)
I replaced my PSP over the weekend - the two sets of directions/explanations here were spot on... my only added advice would be to seriously consider slotting the bolt hole in the sub frame - it would definitely ease the removal and replacement for the next round... my process took a little longer than expected (4 hrs total) but I didn't break anything and no parts were left unaccounted for - thanks for the detailed write-ups!!
ok great, thanks, i'm thinking to replace the fluid in my cooper S because :
1- the steering makes noise, although i know most minis do.
2- the fluid colour is not red nor green, almost transparent ( like water )
Most of the failures seem linked to the electronic side of the pump, dismantling the motor before a failure and cleaning out accumulated dust and graphite from the brushes area seems to prolong the life or prevent premature failure.
Details and pictures on how to here (Post No.3): http://www.totalmini.com/forum/46-20...-failures.html
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