Replacing Thermostat & Housing - Is it Easy or Hard? - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 2008, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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DIY Replacing Thermostat & Housing - Is it Easy or Hard?

Hi
I've browsed this forum since I bought my Mini Cooper in 05 but now out of warranty I need to call on the help of the forum to avoid dealer costs......

Firstly I noticed the expansion tank coolant level was down to minimum so topped it up, but 2 weeks later it was low again. At the same time I noticed some water on the floor under the car and traced it to a wet patch at the back of the engine half way down on the right as you look at the car from in front of it. In other words below the exhaust outlet nearest the near-side of the car.

Reading online it looks like it is the common fault of thermostat housing leaking. However I will go and get the dealer to confirm.

If it turns out to need replacing, I am wondering how easy or hard the job would be. It seems to be held on by 3 bolts, but also seems to be very difficult to get to. Has anyone done the job?

I know I should go and get a Haynes Manual really but your advice appreciated first.

Martin
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 2008, 03:24 PM
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Its easy to chanege, as you say it is only held on with 3 bolts (10mm headed), but there are 2 hoses to disconnect (not exactly difficult!)

The only thing to remember is that there are 2 bleed screws for when you refill the cooling system, one on the radiator top hose and one on the top heater matrix hose (to the left of the battery compartment at the bulkhead)

Just put up a post if you need any more help.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 2008, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for quick response! Do you know how much stuff has to be removed before you can get to the 3 bolts?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 2008, 07:44 PM
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I have done it without removing anything else, but it is a bit of a fiddle! It should only take 5 minutes to remove the battery, battery box and ECU so long as the mounting bolts for the box are not seized solid. Then you will have plenty of room to access the housing.

"Allow me to explain... Understeer is when you hit the armco going forwards, Oversteer is when you hit it going backwards!"
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 2011, 05:38 PM
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Hi, I want to have a go at this as my car has the same issue. Is there a guide / how to, with pictures on the forum ? If yes, does anyone have a link as I have tried the search function with no joy ?
TIA
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 2011, 06:48 PM
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 2011, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for the guides. I Have now had it done by a BMW mechanic pal who replaced the housing aswell as the stat and gasket for Ł60. He said it was obvious to him this was the issue and all appears to be well on the coolant front at the moment. Fingers crossed it stays that way.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 2011, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by C.Noble View Post
I have done it without removing anything else, but it is a bit of a fiddle! It should only take 5 minutes to remove the battery, battery box and ECU so long as the mounting bolts for the box are not seized solid. Then you will have plenty of room to access the housing.
In such case, do you remove the battery without having to provide an alternative power source? Do not you lose any computer data if you just remove the battery? I have similar problem with my MINI 2003 and just hesitate to remove the battery, being afraid of not being able to restart the car later.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2011, 12:20 PM
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In such case, do you remove the battery without having to provide an alternative power source? Do not you lose any computer data if you just remove the battery? I have similar problem with my MINI 2003 and just hesitate to remove the battery, being afraid of not being able to restart the car later.
no you dont have to provide an alternative power source for the car, as every is well stored on the ecu, eg fault lists and the likes if you have any. i only recently changed the coolant and a water temp sensor the one that screws in to the side of the head and is connected with a two pin electrical connecter, reason for this the fan was not coming on and she was overheating in traffic but was perfect on the motor way, the coolant was never changed eater as i bought the car second hand for my girlfriend, changing it made some difference to the temp gauge as it was all ways at half even if it was left for a hour to cool. now it is just under half. i have a load more to do to the car fuel filter, power steering pump, change the breaking fluid and a few other bits to keep it right as the last owners never looked after it in general.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 2011, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackStripe View Post
Hi
I've browsed this forum since I bought my Mini Cooper in 05 but now out of warranty I need to call on the help of the forum to avoid dealer costs......

Firstly I noticed the expansion tank coolant level was down to minimum so topped it up, but 2 weeks later it was low again. At the same time I noticed some water on the floor under the car and traced it to a wet patch at the back of the engine half way down on the right as you look at the car from in front of it. In other words below the exhaust outlet nearest the near-side of the car.

Reading online it looks like it is the common fault of thermostat housing leaking. However I will go and get the dealer to confirm.

If it turns out to need replacing, I am wondering how easy or hard the job would be. It seems to be held on by 3 bolts, but also seems to be very difficult to get to. Has anyone done the job?

I know I should go and get a Haynes Manual really but your advice appreciated first.

Martin

Its easy to replace
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