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| First Generation Faults & Fixes MINI faults and fixes 2001 - 2006 |
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| Central Locking Problem: Which Part? Pics inc Hi everyone, Long time viewer here and this forum has provided me with many bits of good advice but im stuck with what part to order to get my central locking fixed. Problem: Seems to be pretty common fault after reading but my driver’s door won’t unlock when I use my remote central locking. I then have to use my key to get in the driver’s side. The door does however lock when I use the RCL when I leave the car. I have read that some people say it’s the central locking actuator, others the module. I have seen these 2 examples on Ebay !BbMhR9!!mk~$(KGrHqQH-DwEqu2YOLdeBKu4PiBj9w~~_12 on Flickr - Photo Sharing! and this 342045509_tp on Flickr - Photo Sharing! When I took the door card off and looked inside this is what I saw 14022010304 on Flickr - Photo Sharing! I have no idea what to order Any advice would be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks, Mike PS, I posted the images as links as they didn't show when I used the [IMG] tag |
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| One word of warning about buying the rotary latch from a breakers - these seem to go faulty very often, so how much life you'll have left in a 2nd hand part is questionable. That said, I paid £80 for the part from a dealer! OK, tips for removing and installing new latch: Firstly, disconnect the wiring loom from the bottom of the latch module - you need to squeeze the edges to disengage it. Now you need to take out the metal rod that is your lock button. It's pushed into a round plastic clip type thing. You can see this in your photo - it's the green bit. Push the rod backwards to unclip and then remove the rod. There are two mechanical cables that need to be disconnected (very similar to the break cables on a push-bike). One is for the external door handle, the other for the internal door handle. The external one runs down to the bottom of module - you need to unhook the end of it. You can see this in your photo. Once unhooked, you need to thread it up and out of the plastic holder. The second one is slightly more fiddly. The module has a plastic flap that needs to be opened so you can gain access and unhook the 2nd cable. The flap either hinges at the top or the bottom - my old module hinged at the bottom, the new one at the top! Best thing to do is undo the 3 torx screws that hold the module in place, located on the outside of the door edge. This will free the module up and you can manouvere it a bit to get at it. Once you've removed the wiring harness and two cables, you can pull the module out. It's a very tight squeeze - keep the module pointing in exactly the same direction as when it's screwed into the door and work it slowly past the black bar (window regulator). It really feels like the module won't fit past this but as long as you have it in the same orientation as when it's screwed in, then with a little wiggling it will make it through. Be prepared to scratch your knuckles up in the process! When you have it out, take a good look at where you have to reconnect the cables etc, just to familiarise yourself. You will need to transfer the white plastic clip that the first cable went through, over to the new module (unless the new one already has one attached). You may also have to transfer the metal hook that the first cable attaches to - my new one didnt have this. Its just one screw. Next thing to do is reattach the 2nd cable. It really needs to be done before you squeeze the module back in. You can do this by unscrewing the 3 screws that hold the inside door handle/tweeter in place and then unclipping it from the door. This will allow you to thread the cable through the door, giving you some slack, and you can pull the cable through and attach it to the module before squeezing the module back in. Make sure you keep the cable on the correct side of the window regulator, otherwise you will get tangled when putting everything back in - you'll see what I mean when you do the job. When pushing the module back into the door, make sure you have it in the correct orientation - the same direction as when screwed in. Slowly wiggle it past the window regulator. Pull the cable back through the door so you can reattach the handle/tweeter. Now reattach the first cable and thread it through the plastic clip. It's a little bit fiddly - you might find it easier to screw the module back in first, although I managed it with the module free. Once the two cables are attached and the module screwed in, make sure you snap close the plastic flap. Reconnect the wiring harness. Now reattch the rod for the lock button. It goes in at weird angles but you'll work it out. Make sure you push it into the clip properly - the clip spins round so you can align it easily. Now test that both door handles actually work. Make sure you try them after locking and unlocking the car a few times. The plastic clip that holds one of the cables was getting caught up on the door frame (I put it on backwards by mistake) and therefore the unit wasnt unlocking properly. When you're 100% satisfied that it's all working properly you can put the door card back on. Hope this all helps, and hope it cures your problem! Good luck! |
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| Wow, thanks for the instructions. I will try to get the part and it fitted this week. Will post back when im finished. Thanks again for your help. Mike Last edited by MINIAC; Feb 15th, 2010 at 03:24 PM. Reason: Remove quote of previous post |
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| Help! Hi guys, ok basically my Mini has started unlocking itself due to the part you have described above being faulty. I have just been charged £60 for the privilege of this knowledge!!! However, they didnt have the part in stock, but its going to cost me £190 for part and fitting!! So i got the part number, googled it and here I am, I really can't afford that, but it's obviously really dodgy because I cant go anywhere at the moment because the car is permanently unlocked, i'm just wondering where to get the part from? Where did you get yours? Thanks Lex |
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| If you don't want to buy new from a MINI dealer then you could try here: Mini Spares UK - Home or MiniMatt|BMW|MINI|Modifications|Parts|Spares|Servi ce|Tuning|Repairs|Racing |
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You can get the Rotary Latch module brand new from a dealer for £80inc - fit it yourself and save £110. It isn't difficult to fit yourself - read my updated 'how to' for full instructions: http://www.mini2.com/forum/first-gen...ml#post3754435 Personally, I'd be hesitant to use a 2nd hand module, purely because they seem to develop faults so often (I'm no expert, just going on the info I've read here on the forum) - I'd be worried that a 2nd hand module would die too quickly! |
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