MINI Cooper Forum banner

New car, one key, programming a replacement

77K views 25 replies 19 participants last post by  SeanC 
#1 ·
Hi this may seem like a strange question, however a neighbour of mine has just bought a 2002 mini cooper, however it only came with one key.
I've told her it should be possible to program a new key,(I already program new keys for the R40 Rover/MG which shares the same EWS 3 unit) however, without seeming daft, where is the EWS located on the R53 :).
Also would I be right in assuming the remote function of the fob is programmed in a similar fashion to the 75/ZT, which uses RDS requiring the input of two barcodes, but using INPA?
Cheers
Brian :)
 
#4 ·
According to USA Bentley Mini manual it behind the small lower dash panel on right of steering column, trim panel unclips by pulling on top edge, (although it shows opposite for a LHD car)
This is the EWS module:
RealOEM.com BMW R50 Cooper EWS CONTROL UNIT/TR MODULE/SUPPORT

Quote from another Mini2 post:
Each key has a small cylindrical module inside it. If you open your remote key you can see it. The plastic key has it embedded in the upper end. This chip is powered by a coil around the ignition key and transmits a rolling code to a module known as the EWS (Engine immobiliser). The range is measured in inches. The EWS is shipped knowing 10 chip codes. You should have received three chipped keys with your car and the remaining seven chips are stored in a BMW vault. Each chip code can be individually disabled by a BMW dealer. If you need key number 11 the EWS unit needs to be replaced according to BMW. In fact third party remote start system require a cylinder from a key inserted into a second hidden coil to appease the EWS system.

The EWS and the DME (Engine management computer) share a separate rolling key. If they do not match the DME will not operate the engine. So plugging your EWS into your friend's MINI does nothing unless you have a BMW dealer's programming computer to re-sync the EWS and DME. And swapping both the EWS and DME will run into a conflict with the other electronics like the BC1 (Body computer) and the IKE (instrument console) which verify embedded numbers with each other.

A separate but related system is the ZKE body electronics which support up to four registered remote key transmitters at a time. This is not related to the EWS system, just remote lock, unlock and comfort opening. Also included is the MINI OEM alarm system. It activated/deactivates a motion sensor and tilt sensor based upon a lock/unlock signal from the BC1. So even a disabled key has the correct physical cuts to trigger an unlock signal in the driver's door keyhole. They just cannot use the remote or drive the car if it has been disabled in both systems.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/general-discussion/45599-mini-immobilizer-ignition-system.html#post592766
 
#5 ·
According to USA Bentley Mini manual it behind the small lower dash panel on right of steering column, trim panel unclips by pulling on top edge, (although it shows opposite for a LHD car)
This is the EWS module:

Quote from another Mini2 post:
Each key has a small cylindrical module inside it. If you open your remote key you can see it. The plastic key has it embedded in the upper end. This chip is powered by a coil around the ignition key and transmits a rolling code to a module known as the EWS (Engine immobiliser). The range is measured in inches. The EWS is shipped knowing 10 chip codes. You should have received three chipped keys with your car and the remaining seven chips are stored in a BMW vault. Each chip code can be individually disabled by a BMW dealer. If you need key number 11 the EWS unit needs to be replaced according to BMW. In fact third party remote start system require a cylinder from a key inserted into a second hidden coil to appease the EWS system.

The EWS and the DME (Engine management computer) share a separate rolling key. If they do not match the DME will not operate the engine. So plugging your EWS into your friend's MINI does nothing unless you have a BMW dealer's programming computer to re-sync the EWS and DME. And swapping both the EWS and DME will run into a conflict with the other electronics like the BC1 (Body computer) and the IKE (instrument console) which verify embedded numbers with each other.

A separate but related system is the ZKE body electronics which support up to four registered remote key transmitters at a time. This is not related to the EWS system, just remote lock, unlock and comfort opening. Also included is the MINI OEM alarm system. It activated/deactivates a motion sensor and tilt sensor based upon a lock/unlock signal from the BC1. So even a disabled key has the correct physical cuts to trigger an unlock signal in the driver's door keyhole. They just cannot use the remote or drive the car if it has been disabled in both systems.

Thanks for that, will have a dig around under the trim tomorrow, so leaves the question of the remote part :D
Brian :confused:
 
#6 ·
Replacement key programing...

A few months ago I bought a used '05 Mini (R52?). It only came with one key what has concerned me for some time because of the chance of losing it and then being totally out of business. A few days ago I bought a fully programable key from my local Mini dealer for about $150. I NOT interested in hearing about any cheaper options!!!

They had to order it AFTER I gave them a copy of the title with the vin number and a copy of my driver's license.

Today I receive the key in the mail with the offer to drive about 25 miles to my Mini dealer so that he could program the key for me. Instead, I found the following procedure on the internet and it works great. It only took me about 30 seconds to program the key. I don't know if this procedure works for all recent Mini vehicles, but it works for my '05 for sure.

1.) Close all doors

2.) Switch the ignition switch to KL-R (first turn), switch back off within 5 seconds and remove the key

3.) Within 30 seconds, press and hold the unlock button and at the same time, press and release the lock button (3) times. (Must be completed within 10 seconds)

4.) Release both buttons. The doors will lock/unlock to signal a successful initialization.

5.) If additional keys need to be initialized, repeat steps 3-4 within 30 seconds

6.) Switching the ignition to KL-R completes the initialization
 
#7 ·
A few months ago I bought a used '05 Mini (R52?). It only came with one key what has concerned me for some time because of the chance of losing it and then being totally out of business. A few days ago I bought a fully programable key from my local Mini dealer for about $150. I NOT interested in hearing about any cheaper options!!!

They had to order it AFTER I gave them a copy of the title with the vin number and a copy of my driver's license.

Today I receive the key in the mail with the offer to drive about 25 miles to my Mini dealer so that he could program the key for me. Instead, I found the following procedure on the internet and it works great. It only took me about 30 seconds to program the key. I don't know if this procedure works for all recent Mini vehicles, but it works for my '05 for sure.

1.) Close all doors

2.) Switch the ignition switch to KL-R (first turn), switch back off within 5 seconds and remove the key

3.) Within 30 seconds, press and hold the unlock button and at the same time, press and release the lock button (3) times. (Must be completed within 10 seconds)

4.) Release both buttons. The doors will lock/unlock to signal a successful initialization.

5.) If additional keys need to be initialized, repeat steps 3-4 within 30 seconds

6.) Switching the ignition to KL-R completes the initialization
I had an exact same experience with my 05. This procedure works, but at #5 you need to reprogramme both keys. I didn't do my original key the first time, and it then didn't work. Repeated for both keys and all good.
 
#8 ·
Hi, I recently bought a Cooper S (r53) only with one key and that one had the fob not working, I was told by the dealership the Cooper came to the dealer with that only. They ordered me a new one and it came today. How can I program it since I read a lot ot threads regarding this issue and I have not got any lock. My brand new key it is supposed to be the one that charges with the ignition and has 3 buttons ( close, open, trunk).
Maybe Im doing something wrong can you guys give me any advice?
 
#22 ·
May be time to call a key specialist as you have tried everything else. The chip in the new key may/may not be good and you will need equipment to test its signal. The disabling is where the ECU in the car is locked to prevent more keys being added, probably as an anti theft device. The only way to re-enable will be by a diagnostic tool with this ability. There are a lot of specialists in this field, Yellow Pages or Google etc may find you one.
 
#10 ·
I purchased a non remote key from mini store last month!But from the first day of a problem:The key is inserted, the engine does not start when manually turn off the car door locks automatically open in two seconds after the door lock,Even after the start of the engine, manually shut down the locks the same open automatically after two seconds.The car is moving, the door lock remains open.Stop and start up the car, the normal door locks should be automatically locked, but still automatically unlock after two seconds,But if I use my Master key is no such problem.Can you teach me how to solve?Thanks!

2006 mini cooper
 
#15 ·
Dsc

I just bought a used 2014 mini countryman 6 speed, love the car...the other day i was on a small incline at a stop sign sitting on ice/snow. when i tried to move forward my wheels startd to spin, however, when i tried to accelerate (which is what Ive always done in past vehicles) instead of the tires spinning hoping to help pull me through the ice/snw, the car slid to one side and the engine would not accelerate even when i floored it. My question:does the DSC Dynamic Stability Control have something to do with that? My second question: according to my manual , it states that in some cases you will need to disengage DSC in such cases, and it also shows in the manual that the DSC switch to be located next to the Traction toggle switch, however, there is no such switch located in my car. Any thoughts?

thanks,

norm
 
#16 ·
You might get more answers by posting a new message, rather than adding your question to the end of an unrelated thread. Maybe a moderator can move it?

The manual suggests that DSC and traction control can be switched separately, but I've not found that to be true (I wonder if that's only true in Cooper S models?) as the press-and-hold technique on the DSC button has no effect on my cars different from just pressing it. But switching off the DSC will also switch off the traction control.

I've only had a button marked 'DSC' but if you have one marked 'Traction', I expect that is the same one.

Since you say 'tires' I imagine you are in the USA, in which case you may be a more experienced winter driver than many of the members of this forum who are in Britain.

So if you have winter tyres, then switching off the traction control to get a little bit of wheelspin will help.

It may be worth saying for anyone in Britain, who will generally use ordinary/summer tyres in winter, wheelspin will not improve traction on snow, so switching off the traction control is not a good idea for them.
 
#19 ·
StarFlyr, thanks for the answer back. Yea, it does not have the badge in the rear, but does have the exhaust tip embossed with JCW, as the dash also has the stiching. A stabilizer bar in the engine compartment also says JCW on it. My landlord is the guy responsible for my interests in Mini, as he rolled up in one he purchased and the rest is history. I wanted one! We tried going online for a VIN verification but could not verify, He says it still could be a JCW, as Dealers often add the JCW package after a purchase. I'll learn more I'm sure, as time passes. Back to the key issue, it's the only key that came with the car. Guy who sold it to me buys and sells cars from auctions. Said he had to buy the key and have it cut. Does start car and open the door manually, but not remotely. Could it be the battery in the fob needs more charging? This weekend I'll spend more time in the car, as I just got it and only driven it about 30 mins.
 
#21 ·
I'm a little suspicious of this key. The only place you can get a key that is assured of working with your MINI is at a dealer. They check your license and registration/title and then order you a key. It comes already cut and with the correct EWS/immobilizer chip, and if it has a remote in it the necessary paperwork to allow them to program your car's computer to recognize the remote signals (cars are programmed, not keys).

There's lots of places that you can get a blade cut and maybe some that can also "burn" the correct EWS chip for you, but I'm still a little suspect of this key's origins. Can you post a picture of it? There is a "non-remote" style of key for this year of car, maybe that's what you have.

Val
 
#23 ·
Cicero Locksmith should be able to make a plain key for you. A buddy of mine is a mobile locksmith and he can do it; he showed me some other keys he's made that are the same style as ours. Obviously it wouldn't start the car, but you can then hide your fob key in the car, and your "door" key is waterproof.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top