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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Advice on replacing the radiator.

Hi. Ive just got the motor back together and running after a failed head gasket and all seemed fine till the next day when the radiator decided to empty out all its coolant. It might be split due to lack of antifreeze so probably needs replacing. Can anyone shed some light on replacing the radiator, is there a how to anywhere? Will i need to remove the front bumper and cross member?

Once the leak is fixed whats the best way to fill the system with coolant. Previously ive filled the expansion tank and filled the system via the small bleed screw on the front left of the engine while massaging the bottom hose to release air. This seemed to work ok but was reading earlier about some kind of bleed screw/allen key on the front right of the engine near the thermostat housing somewhere? Whats the best way to do it?
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 11:23 AM
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Hi ya

I pulled the front end off last rad I done does not take long to do

Interior/Exterior :: Girl's Guide to Removing Bumper, Carrier, and Front End (MFE) - North American Motoring


This is a link for the coolant filling and bleeding it very important with these minis
When you are filling it make shore the heater is set to hot and fan is on low and make shore you bleed it good and proper :-)

http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenan...screw-plz.html

Hope this helps
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Old Feb 18th, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Yeah i took the front bumper skin and cross member off to change the rad. Its really easy to do. To fill and bleed the system i filled the expansion tank which does not seem to drop in level until the thermostat opens later in the process. But to fill the whole system fully i filled via the bleed screw near the rad above the alternator. With the engine running and both bleed screws removed i kept filling until coolant started flowing from the screw to the back of the engine near the battery then fitted the screw. Then i massaged the bottom rad hose to remove trapped air from the radiator and kept filling the system via the front bleed screw until it would take no more coolant and no further air was released. Then with the system full i replaced the screw. Around this time it was evident the thermostat had opened as all the hoses and rad started to get hot. The resevoir may drop a little at this point so make sure it is topped up. Then take the car for a drive and check the levels at every trip for the next couple of days.

This method worked great for me with red hot heaters and no temperature issues.
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