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R53 Cooper S - Steering Issues

6K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  NigelK 
#1 ·
Hi,

I'm back with a Cooper S after 10 years away, just picked up a 2005 one for very little money that has 'some issues'. The plan is to use it as a road going track day car and the first issue to overcome is the steering. It has a number 3 issues and I just wondered if anyone could provide any assistance with the following:

Power Steering - Quite simply it doesn't have any! I'm well aware of the PSP issues and its first on the list. When stationary there is pretty much no noise from the PSP at all which leads me to believe the pump is completely dead. The only thing I need to check is the 100a fuse but I understand this is a nightmare to access (underneath the engine bay fuse board) - is the fuse likely to have blown?

Clicking on the steering wheel - when turning the wheel from lock to lock there is a clicking/grinding noise apparent from the steering column itself. This is only audible from inside the car. Am I right in thinking this is therefore the upper steering column? Is this is difficult to change over?

Grinding noise - again when turning the wheel but whilst moving at slow speeds there is a lot of grinding noises from outside the car. Almost sounds like a tyre rubbing on something (which it isn't). If I move the steering wheel whilst stationary the suspension top mounts move slightly as well. I'm sure I read somewhere that this therefore points to a bush somewhere but I cant find the thread about it. Which bushes/bearings are likely to cause steering issues/noises?

Any other threads that may help if anyone can point me in the right direction would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mat
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Hi Mat, if your PS is gone, it will feel like your trying to turn the rudder on the titanic ! and you wont hear any whine.

I doubt that you have blown the 100 amp fuse, you only require full power (amp) when you hold the steering on full lock, what has most likely happened is that the controller board attached to the pump has died.

Easy way to change the pump is to drop the sub frame, inspect all power leads for chafing and swap the pump out. If you watch Modmini on YouTube where he replaces the clutch on an R53, you will see how to drop the sub frame out (an easy job).

Whilst the sub frame is out, you can access the shocks and drop them so you can then replace the upper shock mounts (from around mid 2004 onwards they changed to the more fragile design, you will also see tears in the rubber around the top of the mount). The shock tower mounts are not expensive compared to the early design and not difficult to replace but also check your front towers for mushrooming.

Again, Modmini on YouTube has a video on shock tower defenders which when installed will help to pull the deformed metal back (you shouldn't need to hammer them down).

Get all this sorted and if you still have a clicking steering column, then you can investigate further

Time to drop the front end is around 20-25 mins in a driveway, makes it far more easier to replace the PS pump (watch the Modmini video on how to bleed the pump after replacing).

Drop the shocks and replace the mounts is around 20-25 mins per shock so your looking at a mornings work to do the pump and shock tower mounts, and reinstall the front end.
 
#3 ·
Thanks very much for the detailed reply, much appreciated.

I've watched his video on replacing the PSP with the subframe in place, dropping the subframe looks a little out of my comfort zone :) I can hear the PSP though it seems too quiet to me. I can also turn the wheel lock to lock with one hand whilst stationary. I'm guessing if the PSP had failed then this would be impossible, what do you think?

From doing some more research I understand the noise I'm getting is top mount related and I've watched a couple of videos so am comfortable with doing those. The top mount defenders are a great idea so I'll be doing those at the same time.
 
#4 ·
Top mounts are easy to do but be careful with the pinch bolts on the hub carriers as these can seize and snap if your not careful. Give them a good soak in penetrating oil days before hand and work them out slowly and if they tighten up wind them back in a touch so you don't put too much pressure on them. Also when refitting the pinch bolts use some Cooper grease on them to aid future removal. I snapped one before and it was a bloody nightmare drilling the broken bolt out!

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
The grinding/shudder are the top mounts

The pas pump should be audible when turning at idle.

Unfortunately the internals of the pump get filled with carbon dust from the brushes & road grime.

Some people can pull them apart & clean them that can fix the problem.

A cope/paste from another site....

Welcome to my Mini Cooper hobby page. I would like to share my experiences in doing repairs all by myself on my 2003 Mini Cooper S.

I started from oil leaks, powersteering pump rebuild and leak repair, power door lock actuator rebuild and Transponder key programming. I will try my best to keep my posts updated as well as pictures posted on my adventure doing all of this during my spare time.

Power Steering Pump repair:



I know that this will be the most expensive repair of all, vendors on ebay charge $200+ for a rebuild. While the hardest part of the work would be taking the pump out of the car, Rebuilding it isn’t that bad at all as long as you can solder and have the right tools for the job.

Disconnect the carbon brush copper wire from the board, this will let you separate the board completly from the motor assembly.

Once you have removed the pump and dis-assembled it, you will just need to blow off the carbon dust build up on the control board inside the pump, this is the main culprit of the pump failure, actually the controller fails to function because of the circuit board being shorted out by the conductive carbon powder from the brushes.

After cleaning it with air, spray lots of contact cleaner to the board just to make sure it will be ready for the next step.

Once the contact cleaner dries off, need to spray some clear coat paint on the board and make sure that you tape off the contacts of the socket where the connector is going from the car(you get the idea). This step will prevent the carbon build up to short out the legs/contacts on the pcb again, making our fix semi permanent and alot better than what the guys at mini cooper designed it to be.

Let it dry for a day or two and re-assemble everything and make sure to tighten up the bolts and good luck intalling it back in the car.

I have mine working for 2 years now since I rebuilt it. (about 30,000miles still going strong)

Things you’ll need for the activity:

Set of metric socket (start from 8mm upto 18mm)
Set of torx driver, preferably socket type(you can attach to an impact driver)
Impact Driver(I have the 18v DeWalt DC827) makes life so much easier
Socket extensions
soldering iron and lead and flux(will use this to re-attach the brushes of the PS motor)
Clear coat in spray can.
Air Compressor or air spray can
Paper clip(will need this to re-install the carbon brushes
Rubber mallet (to reinstall the motor shaft)
 
#8 ·
Thanks guys.

The pump is audible, but only just really. I remember them being much louder.

Looking again yesterday and the strut mounts are actually sticking out beyond the strut towers so they are well gone I think!

I think I'll tackle those first with some replacement struts from a breaker and then move on to the next job!

I've read about the PSP repairs. I think I'll just go for a replacement unit from a breaker but then strip down my old one and keep it as a spare.
 
#11 ·
If anyone wants a set of 'under' tower defenders 'my man' had some sets made up. They are 3mm mild steel. Finish-wise they are just flashed over with matt black spray paint. So you can finish them as you wish.
He charges £30.

Delivery is:
UK
Small Parcel, signed for, 2nd Class £4.00

Australia
Air £15.85

USA and Canada
Air £14.90
 

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#16 ·
Wow, I just chucked that post in to this thread, completely off topic. No problem folks, I can sort it out for you. I've rung him and he only has 2 sets left but he will make up some more. Probably take about a week. Hopefully that is OK - they are more nice to have, to be fitted when you next get round to dropping the struts.

Astro, where are you in Kent? They are in Tonbridge.
Milpol, better get yours off as they have a way to travel. I believe they take 4-5 days to Oz. You may already know this but they need to be sent to Oz one set per package. They weigh 1.04kgs per set, two takes them over the magic 2kgs and the price rockets to about £60. I suppose for a bulk buy of 5 sets it would be more economical in one package.
Sean, no problem.

Couple of things to point out:
Finish
I thought they were flashed over with paint but they are just an 'oiled finish'.
Model Fit
The very early R50s (2001 -2002?) apparently had slightly larger strut top bolts. They will fit OK but the holes will need filing out slightly larger to fit (or drilling if you have the necessary). Otherwise they are fine for all models up to the last convertibles in 2008.
 
#22 ·
Hi Nigel,
I am in Ashford,
Not worried about the finish as they wont be seen by many once fitted

Tonbridge is still about 45-60 mins away from me so posted would be preferred please

PM Me when ready with payment details and I will paypal if that OK,
and give address details at the same time..

You may want to start a new thread and have a bulk order made,
maybe upto 5 mm is dooable..::wink::
 
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