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Old Mar 26th, 2008, 12:44 AM
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Front Seat Removal Guide DIY - R53

[size="2"]Front Seat Removal:

Tools Needed:
Socket Ratchet
T45 Torx Bit & Holder
Side Cutting Pliers
Adjustable or Mole Grips
6 Zip Ties



1. Either keep the keys away from the ignition or disconnect the battery.

2. Pump the seat to the highest point using the higher/lower lever on the seat, this will give you more room to work when undoing the bolts.

3. Slide the seat back as far as it will go on the runners, unclip the blue and yellow plugs under the seat (airbag and seat belt tensioner). When these are dis-connected simply grab hold of the plug that is still attached to the underside frame of the seat and twist, it should unclip.



Note: Onthe above picture I have the airbag resistor installed already, more info later.

4. Each seat is held in place with 4 T45 Torx bolts, one in each corner. Using the ratchet, T30 torx bit Undo the front two bolts.



5. Slide the seat forward then tilt it forward, undo the rear torx bolts.



[font=Arial][size=3]The seat can now be removed but be careful not to snag the wires and keep the seat in the tilted position for ease of removal.

Note: If you are installing JCW seats then follow these next steps for removal of the runners from your original seats to the new JCW seats. If you are installing aftermarket seats then follow the guidelines with your sub-frames.

6. Each runner is held in place with 4 T40 Torx Bolts, That’s 8 on each seat. Remove the front two…



Now the rear two….



[font=Arial][size=3]Repeat this on the other side of the seat.

7. One wire will remain attached to the seat from the runners/ linkage, that is the wire that allows the seat to be tilted when you depress the lever on the seat.
Follow the wire from the linkage to were it is attached on the seat, grap a pair of pliers and un-hook it on from the seat leaving it on the linkage.



The linkage is now fully free to be removed and placed to one side.

The seat belt tensioner now needs to be removed.

8. Snip all the zip ties that are holding the tensioners wire in place, if you didn’t twist the clip in the first few steps to remove it, do that now and feed the wire free from the seat. Undo the one T45 Torx bolt that is hold the unit in place.

[center][center][b][font=Arial][size=2]That is

Last edited by ScottyBoy; Feb 27th, 2009 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Sep 4th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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DIY

Thanks for the useful and detailed information, was a big help. A couple of corrections, the seat bolts are T40, not T45 (Step 4). The plugs under the seat for airbag etc also had a clip on each cable that needs to be removed before the seat comes out as they are attached to the underside of the seat, maybe were added to later 1st gen cars? Cheers.
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Hi, thanks for the guide.

my car is currently down, but im am in need of acquiring some precise dimensions regarding the seat sliders mounting holes in the car floor.

so what i need if someone can give it to me (since im planing to make a custom seat adapter for a bucket seat), is the position of holes in the floor. their width and their length.

Thanks in advance
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Have you not got your own car to measure?
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Old Oct 17th, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by ScottyBoy (original)
Have you not got your own car to measure?

i do but its not here, its in the work shop, 40km away and im not currently able to go there...
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