Wiring help please: Wires from footwell lights to the doors?

[Paul]

I'm thinking of attempting to retro fit the puddle lights in the MINI, and I'd like some advice on a neat and tidy way of getting wires from the footwell lights into the door cards.

I'd also like really basic advice like the best ways to splice and get power from the lights, and what type of wires etc. to use. Talk to me like an idiot if you must, as I need help on this!

[zoooooom]

Quote: Originally Posted by Paul Mullett

I'm thinking of attempting to retro fit the puddle lights in the MINI, and I'd like some advice on a neat and tidy way of getting wires from the footwell lights into the door cards.

I'd also like really basic advice like the best ways to splice and get power from the lights, and what type of wires etc. to use. Talk to me like an idiot if you must, as I need help on this!

OK here you go .first you must remove both doors while standing on one leg and singing the German nation anthem,then you must put you left leg in your left leg out..............need I go on??

[Paul]

Was looking for something a LITTLE more believable than that. If possible.

[phoggberg]

Moss Motors used to provide two plates, that have 4 speing loaded bittons. You mount them in the door and frame near the hinge, and when the door is closed the buttons touch, and current can flow. However the connection is broken when the door is open, but you could use a capacitor to be charged up when the door was closed and use the lack of current on the witch button to energize the circuit and light a high brightness LED as the puddle light.

I can cjeck my catalog when I get home from work

[jwardell]

Yknow I was just installing dynamat in my door this weekend and stuck my head in there and realized it's pretty easy to get to the back of the grommet where the wires come in. I bet this would be very easy. Yes, you should have no problem running a positive wire from the footwell light the short distance through the existing rubber door grommet/harness and into the door. Then I guess cutting the hole in the bottom of the door panel to mount the new light in. Doesn't seem like it would be too tough.

[Paul]

The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?

[Paul]

Quote: Originally Posted by jwardell

Yknow I was just installing dynamat in my door this weekend and stuck my head in there and realized it's pretty easy to get to the back of the grommet where the wires come in. I bet this would be very easy. Yes, you should have no problem running a positive wire from the footwell light the short distance through the existing rubber door grommet/harness and into the door. Then I guess cutting the hole in the bottom of the door panel to mount the new light in. Doesn't seem like it would be too tough.

That was my plan.

I'm assuming I'll have to completely remove the door cards to do this?

[Root Ginger]

Quote: Originally Posted by Paul Mullett

The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?

The easiest thing to do is to buy wire that looks the same as the wiring that already exists for the footwell lights. The internal wire thickness is the most important thing (called guage) and making sure it will handle the amount of amps you're gonna stick down it.

To be honest I'm no expert myself but the job you're looking at is pretty simple, although it is going to involve you lying upside down with your head in the footwell and your feet out the door to feed the wire to the grommit. Head rush time

My advise is to stop the footwell lights from lighting when the door is opened by holding the roof light switch down for 5 secs. If you don't, you will find that the footwell lights are blinding when you're working down there. Even better stick some tape over the bottom part of the light which will still allow some light to reach the footwell from the top of the light. Thus allowing you to see where you're working. Sorted

[jwardell]

Don't worry too much about the wire...even speaker wire will work. You're not dealing with a lot of current. Note how small the other wires are. (It is more important for high current items like stereo amps) If you want to be picky it's more the casing to concentrate on, standing up to temperatures even fire. But again, probably anything will be fine.18-20 guage should be fine.

No need to cover the bulbs while working--just remove them (Especially if you will be soldering the wire!) If you are wrapping the wire, be sure to electrical tape any exposed connections.

I might try it all myself if only I saw a true use to the puddle lights. Hmm but maybe some LEDs in the door handles like the 05s...OH GREAT now you have my mind thinking! Perhaps in the spring when it is warm again.

[GBMINI]

Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!

[Paul]

Quote: Originally Posted by GBMINI

Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!

That's scary!

[tnoy66]

Quote: Originally Posted by GBMINI

Josh,
I am confused by your advice - but I respect your skills so maybe I have missed something?

From my experience, the wiring from the door goes to a connector which plugs into a mating connector in the car body. There is no continuous rubber grommet/tube to push a wire through from door to car.
When I tried this to run new speaker wires, I had to get the plug & socket apart (very difficult without removing the door), then drill holes to allow new wires to be shoved through both parts and along the rubber tube into the door.
I did achieve it, but I would not suggest attempting it unless you are REALLY serious about lights!

Paul, mikeythemini shows how to fit wires this way on his site, in his mirror DIY
http://www.newministuff.com/diy_folding_mirrors.htm

I've done it before on other cars, fiddly but do-able. Just take your time and drill carefully.
Don't forget we need pics of you doing this

[GBMINI]

Quote: Originally Posted by tnoy66

Paul, mikeythemini shows how to fit wires this way on his site, in his mirror DIY
http://www.newministuff.com/diy_folding_mirrors.htm

Yes - that nightmare of disassembly & reassembly is exactly what I was talking about. Go and open your door and look at the space you have to work in ...
I suggest buying a flashlight instead

[phoggberg]

Quote: Originally Posted by Paul Mullett

The Moss plate idea sounds interesting, be good to learn more about that.

For the "basic" wiring, what type of wire do I need (is that a stupid question)? I've never actually purchased wire, I guess it has different ratings for power etc?

Paul, Sorry it took me a while to get back on line tonight ....

As far as wiring sizes, below is the IEEE standard for current carying capacity. If you don't know how much current the circuit will carry, find the fuse carring the circuit, then multiply that value by 133% and that is a goo number to work with. For example if all the lights on the circuit are fused with a 10Amp Fuse
if you figure 13Amps maximum you will have overkilled the circuit by a bunch, but you will be very safe. So use the Gage wire that will handle 13 Amps, or 14 Gage. Use Copper multistrand, as it will flex with out breaking.

Maximum steady-state load (A) Minimum wire size (AWG)
30 < Load < 40 No. 8
20 < Load < 30 No. 10
15 < Load < 20 No. 12
10 < Load < 15 No. 14
7 < Load < 10 No. 16
Load < 7 No. 18

Regarding the Jamb=Tac connectors, I was wrong Moss doesn't carry them Victoria British does, but they don't sell through the web, so I found that Eastwood does, they are about $30 apiece, and you will need two per door. These are 4 wire version, they also make a two wire version which may be cheaper. You can order these on line at http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...&keyword=60134

but I these will break contact when the door is opened, and that is when you want them to work. Probably better for running the stereo to the doors neatly.

[Paul]

Thanks folks.