Need replacement for rear license plate lamp socket

[rik6147]

@ Rik: Mine would have failed inspection, too if we hadn't fixed it. That was the whole reason we started this last year (it failed then). Like I said, should have done them both the first time!
So, I see you are in Boston. Have you ever gone to Minis On Top? If not, Google it and come join us this June. Lots of fun to be had![/quote]

Omg thank you sooooo much for uploading pics of your latest upgrade, you are my savior!!! Re: Minis On Top i'm not familiar with it considering I just bought my MCS this past summer but it definitely sounds like a blast. I just joined MinisOnTop's Google groups, Mt. Washington June 17-18, 2011 I will mark my calendar.

[LTLBRIT]

Great! See you there!

~Mrs. G.

[scotty153]

Mini Cooper Super White SMD LED License Lamp (No Error Code) CarGym.com

just found these, do you think something like this would solve all the problems with the numbeplate lights and also be a good upgrade, ive had 2 housings in mine and the problem keeps happening and dont want to glue cover in for when the bulb pops then its a nightmare to change

[Gem]

UPDATE replaced the strim and the boot lid has started rusting behind the strip (tiny bit where the housing of the bulb sits in, its interesting to see that the foam on the old strip was so thin and the new one had quite a thick foam backing so i can see why the water can get the back. also the bulbs click and sit tight on the new one so for the length i own the car it should last, it was simple plug and play.
i will not jetwash the back end ill be sparing with water toi try and minimise the risk/amount of water that may get in!!!

[jpyeck]

Nice job with the photos and how-to!

I have tried this process with two different lamp holders (one festoon, one other) and 12V / 5W bulbs for each. For some reason, I can see ~12V across the terminals with the bulbs out, but when I plug the bulbs in, the bulbs are not lit and my voltage drops to zero. I'm fairly certain I have the wiring connected the same way it was originally since the trunk switch still operates.

I understand from my research on this that you need to match wattage or the ECU throws a fault code. That's why I went with the 12V/5W bulbs. Can anyone see where I may have gone wrong or missed something?

Thanks in advance!

[LTLBRIT]

@Scotty153: I don't know if those would cure the problem or not because I can't see how they are attached (wiring or plug into existing socket). As for glueing the lens cover on, the moisture also comes in from the seal behind the whole unit. That's why we put silicone over the back of our second repair.

@jpyeck: The boot latch is a separate set of wires so it SHOULD still work as long as you didn't touch them. I had some trouble figuring out voltage measurements when I did them...they weren't what I expected, but I don't recall what I found. It was a while ago.

I never had any error codes related to the lights before or after either fix, whether they were working (lit) or not. I wish I could give you an answer, but without digging into it myself there's no way for me to know what's really going on in there. Sorry. The only thing I can suggest is to make sure all they wires are in tact and the socket terminals are free of ANY corrosion. I wish you luck.

~Mrs. G.

[Barrat]

Great guide. I had the same problem with one of my number plate lights on my MCS 03, and had a go at fixing it yesterday.

I did not replace the whole unit, instead I took a piece of metal and soldered it to the two wires. This has seemed to do the trick for now.

On another note, I was quoted around £80 for a new boot lid, but you could look out for a used one online (any colour). It is then possible to swap the painted trim around as I took mine apart when I first found the problem in hope I could get to the electronics.

The painted trim seemed to be held on with some glue (to me looked like sealant gel as used in kitchens and bathrooms). I carefully picked and peeled it off with the painted trim and then stuck it back on using a hot glue gun.

[theone]

Mine went about a year ago, LED replacements are brilliant & look amazing!

They replace the whole unit and LEDs should last a whole lot longer than any standard bulb, they advise you seal them in with some kind of silicone type sealant just to make sure.

I blame all the salt out the UK roads for destroying my original ones!

[LTLBRIT]

Barrat: Glad to help. You'll have to let us know how your trim holds up with the hot glue.

theone: I had read that LED bulbs were giving some people false indications of a lamp out because of the low current flow. You'll have to give us a link to the product they used that replaces the whole socket if you can. It's the tough part to find. I'm sure any readers would love another alternative solution!

Thanks to you both for sharing your stories!

~Mrs. G.

[Tr0nic]

that's strange the plastic in front of my light bulbs is missing, the both !

[rjones]

Hi Guys

For MINI 2005 Copper S

I have no pictures but I do have an extremely easy repair for this problem.

It's UK based so sorry for our other friends.

The corrosion usually occurs at one 'end' of the festoon bulb - doesn't matter if both gone as this will work for both ends as well.

They are single piece copper electrodes and pass through from the light housing to the back of the unit

Please follow instructions elsewhere to remove the whole number plate light unit and back panel and multi plug - it is easy - just be careful.

As others have said you then need to expose the wiring on the rear of the affected bulb

Take care doing this - there is no need to cut or damage anything as the protective plastic back plate will come off easily with patience, and then clips back on afterwards.

Ok this is the new bit.

Take the wiring off the affected electrode - there are 2 mini connectors. Before you try pulling them off, gently lever up the wires themselves a small distance as they are kept in place by some little plastic clips that stops them falling off - moving off themselves. No effort needed here just a small screwdriver to get in there.

Ease off the connectors - they do come off - again gently does it - maybe start them off by slowly prying with the screwdriver to start them sliding.

Once removed move them out of the way.

The corroded copper electrode can then be pushed out of the plastic clip.

Just go to the bulb side and gently work at the electrode with a thin screwdriver - again patience is everything and it will just push through - it is only an interference fit - once started again it starts to come through easily - when it was made it was only pushed through.

Once out you need to source a suitable replacement for the copper electrode.

This is the UK bit - don't know where you other guys would get this.

Take a 13 amp domestic plug - take the fuse out of it and expose the fuse carriers.

Using the carrier furthest away from the 'live' pin, remove it (it's the one that's loose and just comes straight away from the plug with the fuse in it and has the live wire screwed to the base.).

Remove the fuse holder by cutting it away at the side/bottom - you will end up with a U shaped piece of copper that used to hold the fuse.

Carefully straighten out into an L shape - one side will be longer than the other - doesn't matter which way - I used a vice to flatten the sides once I had opened it up with pliers - use 2 pliers - one to hold and one to bend so that it bends at one of the existing bends - slower the better here - to will not fail if you take your time.

Using a junior hack saw, gently cut down the shorter side - you are reproducing the blades for the mini connectors to be pressed back onto.

On the long side, equi-distant from all sides drill a 1/8 inch hole - this will be the locator for one end of the festoon bulb - you end up with a small hole at the very end of the longer side.

Believe it or not, if you have down the sawing bit correctly, the new 'blades' at the short end are a perfect fit for the connectors and slip straight on - if not just ease with a needle file - you probably won't need to. Do this whilst the whole thing is in your hand as it makes the next bit easier,.

The longer end of the L - the one with the hole drilling in it - push it through the slit in the plastic where the old connector was pushed out of and carefully seat it back in place.

Gently push the wires back into those small plastic clips I told you about earlier - the new electrode is now sat perfectly in place - the interference fit is perfect and needs nothing else.

Turn the unit back over, and you have the new electrode.

Place your festoon bulb in place - you can gently adjust the electrode as you need.

With the unit in my hands, from start to finish, including thinking time about the sources of the new copper electrode this fix took 30 minutes, including getting the unit back in place after testing.

Saved me £200 as it just failed it's MOT on that only

It will work on all the electrodes so if more than one gone fear not.

It does not damage anything at all and keeps everything original and allows very easy repair to bulb

PS if you want smear silicon ( not setting type) over back of new electrodes before putting the base plate back on)

Wish I had taken pictures but needed to do it for a re-test today

Good luck it really is very very easy and saves ££££££££s

Ne need to cut anything up save a spare 13 amp plug.

Happy Motoring

[LTLBRIT]

rjones: Thanks for your version of a fix. Everyone has their own way of repairing this little unit, as you can tell by the different posts. If you can put up a picture of the item you used for the repair (or a link to where you bought it), I'm sure that will help others (especially in the U.K.) in making their own repairs. Glad it worked out for you. It's a shame the sockets themselves can't be purchased for replacement.

My latest solution to this problem has been to buy a 2012 Cooper S with a maintenance plan. Motor on!

~Mrs. G.