I need help with overheating - MINI Cooper Forum

First Generation MINI Cooper S MINI Cooper S 2002 - 2006

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 2014, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy I need help with overheating

OK, so my mini cooper started overheating, we have since replaced the thermostat, water pump, fan, radiator and expansion tank to no avail. It starts overheating about 30 min. into my drive, if I turn off the a/c and rev to 2000 rpm the temp gauge goes back down to normal operating temp. Started creeping back up at a red light but once I started moving, gauge went back to normal. Coolant is at perfect level and is boiling in the expansion tank, but the temp gauge is showing normal. We are at our wits end. Need new plugs, but they aren't bad, no smoke from exhaust, no water in oil. Please help!

Last edited by LoriP; Jun 7th, 2014 at 08:12 PM. Reason: add year and make
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 7th, 2014, 08:29 PM
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Hi ya and welcome firstly

What year is your car ? Or what R series if you know

Let us know and we can help :-)
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 2014, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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2006 S convertible, R53

Last edited by LoriP; Jun 8th, 2014 at 02:27 AM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Jun 8th, 2014, 02:16 PM
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Hi ya

Are the first and second stage cooling fans working ?
To check the second stage cooling fan is working if you turn on your AC while the engine is running the fan should cut in after a little bit to cool the AC rad.

To check the first stage disconnect the black plug for the rad fan there are there wires ( plug located near bonnet latch on chassis leg rh as you look at the car)
Go between the brown wire and one of the red wires you looking for continuity if it ok good do the same with the other red wire if this is ok good.
If one of the wires has no continuity you need to have a look at the fan resistor.

If the fan does not cut in when you turn your AC on look at your fuses and relays in the engine bay fuse box.

If all of this is ok test your water temp sender you can do a resistance verses temp test. your fist stage fan should cut in at 105 deg c coolant temp.

Make shore your supercharger belt is ok you should have one hole visible on the locking tang if not it needs changing as you know if the belt is slipping it will not drive the sc which drives your water pump.

Failing all that you need to pull off your water pump and check the oil in the water pump drive end of the super charger the seals fail in the sc and then the oil is drawn in to the sc and then the gears run dry and wear out and cause cooling problems

Have a look at this link post 304

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...r-pump-13.html



Hope this helps
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