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Old Jul 3rd, 2014, 08:04 PM
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Hiccup at approx 5k rpm

Hi
I'm starting to give up on my mini some advice would be greatly appreciated

I have a 06 plate Mini Cooper s 75k miles 15% pulley, cooler plugs shorter belt
Mods done around 500 miles ago

When I accelerate hard as soon as the revs would reach the top end my car would lose power and go Into limp mode, I took it to the local garage where they done a diagnostics test and was showing a faulty throttle body, so had it changed.
I collected my car and was driving fine for a day but then the problem was still there but the car wouldn't go into limp mode, no fault codes were showing on diagnostics. I took it back to the garage and was told it could be the coil pack and ignition leads, so had these changed as I still had the factory leads and coil pack. My spark plugs were checked and swapped around

I've picked up my car it's a lot better but it's still
Not right. Now when I accelerate hard there seems to be a small hiccup around 5000 rpm, no fault codes are being picked up
Any suggestions please

John

Last edited by johnworks; Jul 4th, 2014 at 12:17 AM.
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Old Jul 4th, 2014, 07:45 AM
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The first problem you had sounds like a faulty bypass valve & are quite common to fail if its still on the original one at 75k. New bypass valves are around 80ish & should take around an hour or two to change so not too expensive to have done
I think you need to go to a garage though with more knowledge of the cooper s
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Old Jul 4th, 2014, 04:11 PM
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Hi ya

Did you reset the ECM when you done the mods, if not it might be worth doing it this first.
Any engine mods always reset the ECM. Just disconnect the battery neg then poss leave it disconnected for 20-30 min the poss then neg to reconnect. The ECM will take about a tank and a half of fuel to relearn the engine perimeters, it may be seeing an over boost and putting it in to limp mod or even running lean seeing some det and putting it to limp

Does the car feel slow up to 5k or does it just hit a wall or tail off as you get to 5k

You can check the bypass valve with out removing it from the car, find the bpv and push up on the arm In to the diaphragm if you can feel the spring and springs back it should be ok. But there are mods to do to them once you fix the main problem

I would check all your vacuum pipes to start with bpv vacuum link pipe, fuel pressure regulator. Map sensor tube the crack.

Make shore your intercooler is on correctly

What fuel you running on

Where about's are you in uk
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Old Jul 5th, 2014, 05:30 PM
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Thanks for your replies
I will try the battery reset and check the bpv. Where would I find the bpv?
When I reach around 5k it feels there is no power, ithe car accelerates smoothly up til 5k and then a bit of a hiccup, it's not there all the time, then accelerates as normal til the red line. It's almost the same feeling as when the traction light comes on, but midway through accelerating, if that makes sense.
I use normal fuel normally, filled up with shell nitro but that hasn't made a difference


I'm based in the West Midlands mate
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Old Jul 5th, 2014, 06:24 PM
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Ok found the bypass valve, a bit of effort needed to push up on the arm but it sprigs back strong,
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Old Oct 2nd, 2014, 12:04 AM
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I got this sorted so Just an update on this post to help people with a similar issue
The problem started to get worse, with the car cutting out after starting, the revs would drop as soon as started and then the engine would cut out. I had to give it a couple of goes till it stayed started. Also the car would go into limp at lower revs maybe around 2500k. This time the traction light would stay on and the check engine soon light. It was really struggling climbing up hills. It became very tricky to drive.

I had the map sensor replaced and my car is pulling very strong, no flat spots and no limp modes so far.

I hope this helps somebody
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