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What to look for in a R50??

4K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Amithlon 
#1 ·
Hey, im looking at buying my first car later this week or next and a few R50s have caught my eye, been researching like mad looking for faults, buying guides and everything in between.

Just wanted to see if you guys had any tips on what to look for, the one ive fallen for the most is a '55 reg (late 2005) with 56k, manual transmission with sun roof standard 1.6 Cooper.

Already read to check the control arm bushes, damp in both the boot and footwells.

Look for rust around the door panels and engine compartment(should still be in warrenty for rust cover? 12 years ive read and 2 years on the paintwork)

Leaks in the engine? Read somewhere that there was several common leaks - not sure on how to spot them of how serious they are, also cracks in the water reservoir.

Check all the electricals like you would all cars.

I think i read something about gearboxes on the r50 going, I know the signs of the clutch going is it being extremely heavy and the gear box was less responsive?

Is there anything else I should be looking out for? Or tips to expose any faults which may be troublesome? Its likely coming from a dealer, one im looking at has 3 months warrenty im going to try haggle a longer one

Finally anything significant i should look for in the service history? I will be bringing my dad with me to check over the cars too but i wanted to look out for specific problems which could be troublesome since the last mini he owned was about 30 years ago ?

Dan
 
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#2 ·
Most important items are to avoid all CVT (automatic transmission) R50s, and avoid pre-7/2004
R50s. The earlier ones have a Midlands transmission which is not nearly as durable as the later
Getrag 5-speed ones.

The O-ring for the crankshaft position sensor is a common source of oil leaks - often mistaken for
an oil pan gasket leak - $2 part, but it takes a bit of time to get to it on the front of the engine.

Water (coolant) reservoir leaks are much more common on the R53, as that model has a pressurized
reservoir, whereas the R50 one is not. Both models often have coolant leaks at the thermostat
gasket, but it's a pretty easy fix, especially on the R50.

Control arm bushings will go south every 30-50K miles until they're replaced with Powerflex urethane
ones -- then they last forever. Also look at tie rod ends and inner and outer ball joints while you're
checking out the control arm bushings.

Most power steering hoses eventually start to weep some, but if they're leaking badly, it's a bit of labour to
get in there and replace them.
 
#3 ·
The crankshaft position sensor can be reached if the radiator assembly is put into front end service mode, use 2 x 4" bolts to support the radiator (this will remove the need to drop the radiator completely).

Modmini on YouTube has very good DIY videos and shows how to put a Mini into front end service mode. The attached pic shows where the crankcase sensor is. The leaking O-Ring is often mistaken for a leaking sump. Slide the red clip up to unlock the electrical plug, squeeze the tabs on the end and pull. Remove the 10m bolt and slide the sensor out, replace the O-Ring and reversal of procedure to put it all back.

The Midlands gearbox has a bad reputation but I would bet there are a lot that have not had an issue and have never been on a Mini forum, my Midlands is at 198000km and no issues. Once any gearbox makes a noise or a clutch for that matter, its always best to drop the box and inspect repair before they blow up and the Midlands can be easily rebuilt if the casing isn't damaged, most just need a seal kit as an overhaul.

Change the gearbox oil every 50,000 km's and don't labour the gearbox in 5th gear (if under 90 kph, leave it in 4th otherwise you put pressure/load up the shaft and then collapse a bearing). Many use Redline MTL for the gearbox oil. However, even if you have the Getrag 5 speed, its still a good idea to change the gearbox oil on purchase and again every 50,000 kms.

Forgot to add, check the power steering fluid, it should be green, if its red its the wrong fluid (ATF) and you could be up for a new power steering pump which is expensive. Mini use a specific power steering fluid in the Gen 1, Pentosin CHF 11S - Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid
 

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#4 ·
If you need to replace lower control arm bushings in the future or inner ball joints, its easy to drop the front end out, only 10 bolts and Modmini covers the removal in his R50 clutch video's. It takes about 10-15 mins to drop or reinstall and makes working on parts a heck of a lot easier than on the car. The R50,52,53 are identical as the image shows my R53.
 

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#5 ·
Hopefully I wont have to fit or repair anything for a little while but thanks for the tips. I'll probably looking at the car on the roadside, is exhaust pipes dropping a common problem or holes? Might see if theres a mechanic or shop in the area which will allow me to lift the car and have a quick look underneath or use a curb to squeeze underneath, if i can get underneath or the owner isnt happy with me disassembling the car anything i can look for?

Ive heard kicking the wheels from infront will give an indication of the condition of the control arms?

Steering fluid I'll check, ill make sure I go to my mini dealership stock up on their recommended fluids just incase & also lets me know what im looking for in future.

Ill probably be going next week to look at the cars due to work and a funeral but the 2/3 which are roughly late 05 or 06 with around 50-70k miles, all manual gearboxes to try avoid as many of the major faults

Thanks for everything ?
 
#7 ·
I have a late 05 R50 electric blue, CVT Auto - i rebuilt the electro hydraulic power steering pump @160,000Km (bout 100K miles) for $140 the brushes were all but gone. I replaced the steering pump lines and fluid tubes as well, they were weeping. All the radiator hoses and other rubbers were replaced at 150,000Km (bout 90,000 miles) . I have owned it since new and it is at 190,000Km (bout 120,000 miles). I only use 98 octane and have replaced all fluids every year (i had the brake system totally disassembled and all the sludge behind the pistons cleaned out, all parts and rubbers replaced, lines etc and redone. I have gone through 2 sets of rotors and 4 sets of pads. I think the oxygen sensor is about dead to (signs indicate this), and one of the wheel rotation sensors is intermittent (on hard sweeping bends)- this has a habit of turning the ABS system off - saves me having to do it ! - so i am getting Carly for BMW to sort the errors and stuff. Oil is due in 12,000Km (but i will probably notice the extra noise about 3-5,000km before that) I only used the genuine caltex/BMW oil. The front bushes are now overdue for replacement (not a huge job to replace)
CVT belt will be replaced at 200,000Km. Oh, boot struts started sinking at 5yrs. Tried non oem, forget it, the BMW ones are just totally superior.
Gone through 2 batteries, 3rd one installed just recently. (non BMW - bout half the price and 3 year FULL warranty - non pro rata)
I have always driven it pretty hard and always tried to service it appropriately. Best fuel run 880Km on 50litres = 5.7 l/100km bout 49mpg
At the moment with all the stop/sytart and short runs i am getting 10.5 = 27mpg (UK not US) - i suspect the oxygen sensor is costing me 1-2 l/100 on that though. Previous car was a 76 Mini SS show special (1312cc sprintex supercharged / intercooled / clubman mini K - 1/4 time 14.8s top speed 237KPH - true speed not speedo) - next car - maybe a tweaked clio cup-trophy , should get 310+HP and 4.9 0-100. We'll see.
Best of luck, i still love my mini.
 
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