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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Dec 25th, 2006, 05:00 PM
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Think that this may help you.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old Dec 25th, 2006, 10:33 PM
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My lights come on with my full beam....they are as somone put ''better than daylight !!''

You don't have to cut any wires. You just ''tap'' into the live wire on the right hand head lamp with a supplied Scotch Lock....its a sort of clip you slid over one existing wire and then you insert a new wire in the other side of it. You then get a pair of pliers and squeeze a sort of tiny guillotine ( bad spelling ) blade that cuts the insulation of the wires and makes a contact. Its even easier than I make it sound , honestly. Im not kidding, you need a small drill (5mm) a pare of snips and a few tiny ti-wraps to tidy up the wires. A piece-o-cake mate. You get an idiots guide to the instalation...the only thing that confused me was that the written instructions say conect the wires to one terminal and the diagram you also get says the opposite !! It don't make any odds which way you put the wires in question as its just a switch (a relay with four terminals with numbers on ) .....you'll see what I mean when you read them through.

It took longer to drill and fix the brackets to the grill.....here's a tip, lay a sheet over the engine , or a coat or somthing as you will without doubt drop the tiny nuts they supply to fix the brackets with and they just drop into the engine bay and are lost forever in the nooks and crannys. I also dropped the cover off the battery terminal in the engine and it took ages to poke it out with a cane.
You also have to run the wire across the bonnet....it says to remove the sound insulation but you need a tiny phillips to get the screws out ans mine were chuffed up already so I managed to fanny the wire through without much bother.

Im no mechanic mate but I did a good job acording to the wife!! ha ha

You' ll do it easy, just set aside a couple of hours and get some spare M4 nuts and bolts from Do-it-all for when you drop the fiddley little buggers as you only get just enough in the kit (thats if you get it from Bolt on Bits on ebay)

Any bother mate don't hesitate to ask. anything to be of assistance.....

It's gotta be yella'
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old Jan 3rd, 2007, 10:11 AM
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Yeah, the dust sheet across the engine is a must to reduce the loss of screws! Time and patience is key but you will get there!

rustysuss, this may also help but not sure if yours has numbering on it as the diagram below was based on a Wipac setup as I notice 85 & 86 are different on Phoenix's diagram:

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  #19 (permalink)  
Old Jan 4th, 2007, 02:05 PM
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er i jus scotched conected mine into the hi beam wire i have no relay fuse or anythin am i in the mess now
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Old Jan 4th, 2007, 02:37 PM
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I got one of those hand riveters from halfrauds they are much easier then using the nuts and are only about 15 quid!!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old Jan 4th, 2007, 07:55 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by feybrand (original)
er i jus scotched conected mine into the hi beam wire i have no relay fuse or anythin am i in the mess now

you really are best to use a relay with an in line fuse then if anything goes wrong then your fuse will blow, not your electrics!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old Jan 5th, 2007, 10:51 PM
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Ive got a riveter too but persivered with the little nuts and bolts, rivets can be a *** to drill out sometimes if you ever need too, ie. if you want to paint the brackets or owt like that.

You really need an inline fuse. Get one from Halfords and run it from the battery to the relay terminal or cut the wire you have already and splice it in. I once shorted my electrics fitting a radio in an old VW Derby and I saw the wires in the dash melt before my eyes. It failed the test later and it had to be scrapped.

It's gotta be yella'
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old Jan 8th, 2007, 11:48 AM
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You definitely need the fuse, you don't want to flash your lights one day and the whole car just die on you!

I would also advise sealing your scotch connector even if it is just using a load of electrical tape as you don't really want it getting wet!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old Jan 7th, 2008, 08:04 PM
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My wife has a 53 reg cooper and i bought her some wipac 5" spots for xmas, do i need to take the car to bmw for them to install and programme or can i get a local mechanic to do the job
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old Jan 7th, 2008, 08:11 PM
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I just bought my wife some wipac 5" spots for her Mini 53 reg and ive been told that i need to get BMW to programme them to the car at a cost of £150.00 is this true or can i get a local mechanic to do the job please help .......................she is giving me hell over it
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Old Jan 8th, 2008, 06:23 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by RAY666 (original)
I just bought my wife some wipac 5" spots for her Mini 53 reg and ive been told that i need to get BMW to programme them to the car at a cost of £150.00 is this true or can i get a local mechanic to do the job please help .......................she is giving me hell over it

A local mechanic will be just fine

Scott
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old Feb 4th, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Hi guys, does anyone know what size screws I need to fit the standard brackets to a R50 2002 cooper? Ive bought the spotlights and brackets used on ebay but there are no screws, I have seen a few posts mentioning to make sure I dont screw through the second skin of the bonnet & to use self tappers for all holes, but then I seen others that mention nuts n bolts! Please help!
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