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| First Generation MINI Exterior First Generation MINI Exterior 2001 - 2006 |
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| Most passenger cars are 60 lb-ft (which I think is 80 N-m). This is easily acheived using the MINI-supplied wrench and applying your upper-body weight to the very end of the wrench. Most people are surprised at how little it actually takes to tighten them to spec. Make sure mechanics don't use air wrenches to tighten your bolts, especially if you have the anti-theft wheel bolts. It may result in their having to be drilled off (happened to me on an earlier car). Chip H. ex-MINI Cooper S owner and all around good-guy |
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| The torque number for lugnuts is basic owner's maintenance information that should be in the owner's manual for the car. I am disappointed that it is not there. For the VW Golf I owned that had 17mm bolts the recommended lugnut torque was 85 ft-lbs (115Nm). For my Volvo with 19mm bolts it was 90 ft-lbs (120Nm). What size are the wheel bolts on the MINI? You could call your dealer and ask a mechanic to look up the proper number in the MINI maintenance manuals, to be sure. Jerry |
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| Talking Torque. These figures came from my MINI dealer, however, if you look at page 128 of the Owners Handbook you will see the torque setting of 100 Nm for the compact spare wheel. Why the difference? No idea, but its only 5Nm difference. I do know that the mechanics always apply a lot more torque than 105 Nm as I need to apply a far higher torque to remove the wheel studs. Better safe than sorry I guess. |
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| Re: Talking Torque. Well, to a point. If you over-torque the lug bolts unevenly you run the risk of warping the hubs, and in extreme cases you may never get the bolts off again (will need to be drilled off). I was also going to say you'd have the joy of struggling with the wrench while changing a flat by the side of the road during a rainstorm... but with runflats (and no spare!) that's not likely to happen anymore. Chip H. ex-MINI Cooper S owner and all around good-guy |
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