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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Feb 7th, 2005, 08:39 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by twouptons
I did the lamp itself yesterday. It took me two minutes, since I couldn't get the masking tape off the wires

For those who are wondering how to get the blank out, you can reach underneath the car to the area around the blank. There are two clips on the blank. Squeeze the clips and push, and the blank should pop right out of the bumper. The wiring for the lamp is above the blank. Ours was taped up with beige masking tape (not electrical tape), and folded over so at first I didn't see the connector.

Even inoperative, the red lamp looks far better on the back of the car than the black blank. Makes me think MINI should have used a red reflector rather than the black thing.

I'm hoping to do the switch bank this weekend...

-Eric


The lamp was quick. And I agree that they should have come with a red reflector. But then, maybe I would not have opted for the conversion.

Mine was wrapped the same way. I do wish I had smaller hands though. Getting at the wires and unwrapping the masking tape was a little tricky. Did not want to get a knife near those wires, so just used two fingers to play with the tape until it came off.

Wait until you get the switch panel in. It really looks a lot better inside. I did not think it would make a huge difference, but looking at a complete panel rather than the old one is MUCH better.

Good luck with the switch install. If you use the FAQ, I suggest using the method of pulling the dash panels out a little (unclip the lower part of the dash panels) to get the tubes off. I went to remove the cup holders and gate panel at first, but could not get the side mirror clips loose. So ended up doing the dash method. Much easier (for me). And noticed that I had no bolts holding the dash panel on at all

Dain
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Old Feb 8th, 2005, 08:20 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gr8Dain
Good luck with the switch install. If you use the FAQ, I suggest using the method of pulling the dash panels out a little (unclip the lower part of the dash panels) to get the tubes off. I went to remove the cup holders and gate panel at first, but could not get the side mirror clips loose. So ended up doing the dash method. Much easier (for me). And noticed that I had no bolts holding the dash panel on at all

Dain

Dain,

Did you have any problem with the hazard lights/dimmer trim rings popping off? I was reading on GBMINI's web site where he had posted a "2005 update" for the tube removal, and the person who had done it for him said their trim rings came off. I was looking at the car last night, and there doesn't really seem to be any way for that to happen, so I was wondering if he was just mistaken or a bit too aggressive when pulling trim...

Since we have no bolts, is the dash panel just a "lift-and-pull" sort of thing then? Are there clips holding it in or just friction and gravity?
The FAQs don't really say (since they're for pre-2005)
-Eric
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Old Feb 9th, 2005, 01:56 AM
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Well, the trim rings did not come loose at all. They seemed to be attached to the face plate (gray) which comes off with the rounded piece that is the alloy patina in my car. I did not pull any more that necessarry to get the tubes out from under the panel.

There are definitely clips to hold it on. You can hear them release. In fact, the center piece is overlapped by both side pieces and the center ends of both end pieces came unclipped as well in order to provide clearance.

When the tubes were reinstalled, it simply took a slight bump of my fist to 'pop' the clips right back into place.

I will say that I grabbed the center panel right under the lip directly outside of the tubes and pulled evenly and slowly. I did not want the clips to give and me to end up ripping the entire thing off. I might have been too cautious, but better safe than sorry.

You might try the lower end method by removing the shift gate and cup holder trim. I simply could not get the metal clips for the mirror switch to release without applying a screwdriver and did not want to slip and gouge the plastic.

Good luck.

Last edited by Gr8Dain; Feb 13th, 2005 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Feb 12th, 2005, 05:27 AM
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Thanks for clearing up how to remove the downtubes on a 2005 MCS...Gr8Dain. I tried to follow a pre-05 DIY and was confused when my dash trim wasn't held on by torx screws. I took my poor MCS apart once, got confused with the screws, put it back together, watched a movie, searched the web, and took it apart again :-) it's so painful to see it in peices.

Now that my new toggle panel is installed, things look better, all I need to do is get the dealer to program it.

My question is...there is felt that lines the contact point of the downtubes to the center stack...now that i've taken it apart, and put it back together, i notice the felt peeking out between the peices, is that normal? or did I knock the felt off kilter when I was wrestling with the downtubes?

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Old Feb 13th, 2005, 11:57 AM
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I fear that you have knocked the felt out of alignment. I do not have the felt peeking out. I noticed it when I took mine apart, but it is not apparent now that it is all back together. Where exactly do you see it? Maybe you could trim it with an exacto knife (razor blade). Be careful though. I might just take the downtubes off again and see where it has slid. Maybe it has always peeked out and you never noticed it before. Either way, it would bug me until I corrected it.

Good luck,

Dain
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old Feb 14th, 2005, 02:13 AM
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Dain,

if you are sitting in passenger seat or driver seat, you cannot see the felt. When you move your head to the middle of the MINI and look, you can see it then. I have a feeling it has always poked out a little andthat I just never noticed it until i was paying a LOT of attention to the new look of the toggle switch panel. i may be able to take a small card and just stuff the felt back in a bit. we'll see if it bugs me, i doubt it will. Thanks!

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old Feb 14th, 2005, 02:38 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Gr8Dain
Well, the trim rings did not come loose at all. They seemed to be attached to the face plate (gray) which comes off with the rounded piece that is the alloy patina in my car. I did not pull any more that necessarry to get the tubes out from under the panel.

There are definitely clips to hold it on. You can hear them release. In fact, the center piece is overlapped by both side pieces and the center ends of both end pieces came unclipped as well in order to provide clearance.

When the tubes were reinstalled, it simply took a slight bump of my fist to 'pop' the clips right back into place.

I will say that I grabbed the center panel right under the lip directly outside of the tubes and pulled evenly and slowly. I did not want the clips to give and me to end up ripping the entire thing off. I might have been too cautious, but better safe than sorry.

You might try the lower end method by removing the shift gate and cup holder trim. I simply could not get the metal clips for the mirror switch to release without applying a screwdriver and did not want to slip and gouge the plastic.

Good luck.

Dain,
Silly question: did you pull the negative battery terminal or did you do it live?
And did you have to reinitialize anything (windows, etc.)?
-Eric
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Old Feb 14th, 2005, 03:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by twouptons
Dain,
Silly question: did you pull the negative battery terminal or did you do it live?
And did you have to reinitialize anything (windows, etc.)?
-Eric


No question is silly. And No, I did not disconnect the battery. I assumed that the electronics would be 'plugged' in via harness. And they were, so it just took a second to figure out how to unplug it. Slide the latch toward the side like a basket handle and the plug will simply come out.

And all electronics worked just fine once the new panel was installed. I feared that there might be an issue, but they tested out just fine.

I still have not taken the car to the dealer to get the light activated, but will soon.

Dain
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 06:13 PM
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part number ?

Does anyone have the part number for the toggle switch upgrade, and does this upgrade come with a new faceplate + switch or are they separate?
I understand there are different faceplates - mine currently has DSC + front fogs.
I'd like to get the numbers since the local dealer did not know them and told me it couldn't be done on an '05 ( I think he was confused by 09/03 MiniAftersales bulletin ).

Thanks,

Ashley
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Old Mar 7th, 2005, 06:27 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by kishinoa
Does anyone have the part number for the toggle switch upgrade, and does this upgrade come with a new faceplate + switch or are they separate?
I understand there are different faceplates - mine currently has DSC + front fogs.
I'd like to get the numbers since the local dealer did not know them and told me it couldn't be done on an '05 ( I think he was confused by 09/03 MiniAftersales bulletin ).

Thanks,

Ashley

I don't have the numbers on me (I'll get them when I get home if I remember).

The whole switch assembly is a single unit. The only difference between the one you have now and the new one is the extra switch and label. My dealer (Hank Aaron south of Atlanta) knew the one to get and knew it would work. Essentially they need to know you have DSC (vs ASC+T to get the label right) and the front fogs (though why you would get the rear and not the front is beyond me...).

Watch your build date, though, as some of the early 05s didn't have the correct wiring. If that's the case, you have to replace a good bit of the wiring in the back IIRC.

I did my switches (finally) last week. It took about 20 minutes thanks to Dain's updated instructions. Prying off the center trim is a bit hairy as you keep dreading it will do something ugly (like snap in two...). Then it just pops and loosens (loosening the trim on the outside helped a lot, too).

Now does anyone know what to do with a 5-switch panel I don't need anymore?

-Eric
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Old Mar 9th, 2005, 04:43 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by twouptons
I did my switches (finally) last week. It took about 20 minutes thanks to Dain's updated instructions. Prying off the center trim is a bit hairy as you keep dreading it will do something ugly (like snap in two...). Then it just pops and loosens (loosening the trim on the outside helped a lot, too).

Now does anyone know what to do with a 5-switch panel I don't need anymore?

-Eric

I have a spare toggle panel as well. I am glad my post helped you. I also agree that the hardest part is getting over the fear of ripping the dash piece off. And the two ends cam up on their own when I pulled on the center one. Getting the knee bolster back up was a little tricky for me to get the pins in the right places, but 'whack' and it went right in. I hate beating on a new and nice car.

Dain
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Old Mar 13th, 2005, 07:01 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by kishinoa
Does anyone have the part number for the toggle switch upgrade, and does this upgrade come with a new faceplate + switch or are they separate?
I understand there are different faceplates - mine currently has DSC + front fogs.
I'd like to get the numbers since the local dealer did not know them and told me it couldn't be done on an '05 ( I think he was confused by 09/03 MiniAftersales bulletin ).

Thanks,

Ashley

Ashley,
Sorry for the delay - I kept forgettting to look at the box until I got in to work...
The part number for the one we got (which replaced DSC + front fogs) is 61 31 6 917 993
There are a bunch of other numbers on the box, but I think that's the one you're looking for.

-Eric
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 12:58 AM
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Thanks for the part number!

Thanks for the part number Eric. I was sweating for a minute there about the build date, since the date on my door pillar says 10/04 and reportedly the cutoff was 10/14/04. But, under the rear cover I see there's the connector with the masking tape, so we're good to go. Next stop, the Mini dealer. Thanks!

Ashley
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 01:21 PM
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I have the same part number for my switch panel. The light itself was part 63 24 6 933 275. I just got back from the dealer. I had them activate the light as well as code the car to make noise when the fuel is low. I also made them note in my file that I have the typical white wear marks on my conv top. But I digress ...

The best part about my trip this morning .... F O C !!!! Sterling MINI did right by me. No charge for the activations. I fully expected to pay 1/2 hour labor charge. I thought they might try to up it to a full hour since I asked for 2 things to be changed.

A dealer doing work for FREE!!!!!!!! I am still in shock. Thanks Tradd. I really appreciate it.

Dain
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Old Mar 26th, 2005, 07:39 PM
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Additional pointers on rear flog light installation

The rear fog light and panel are, and I'll get it activated next week. Here's a couple of things I noticed, which I will also send to the DIY author. Many thanks to the same author !

a. The rear light number has changed. It was 63 24 6 933 275 and is now 63 24 7 166 015. Not a big deal , since their system pulls up the new number if you give them the old one.
b. Suggestion - before pulling out the knee bolster, put a couple of strips of masking tape on the downtube to prevent scratching. Also, this will allow you to pull straight out which means you're pulling more directly on the pins which hold it in place.
c. When pulling the knee bolster out, be careful where you pull on it. The bolster is actually two parts glued together. When you pull on it to remove it, reach your fingers around a little deeper to grab the back portion of it. Otherwise, you may hear a crack ( like I did ) as the two parts come unglued.
d. My Mini ( '05, 10/04 birth date ) did not have any of the retaining screws for the fascia on either side. It doesn't feel loose at all though so I did not try to install any.
e. When re-installing the fascia around the speedometer, remember that it needs to be completely flush, so don't be afraid to give a sharp whack to seat it properly.
f. When re-installing the bolster,I started by engaging the left hand side hinge point, then the middle and then flexing it a bit to get the right hand one in.

Thanks again to the DIY authors!

Ashley
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