My MOD has now been returned to the garage 7 times due to the engine overheating. It'll run for about 30 miles an then loose all it's water. It's had new thermostats, two new head gaskets, one new head, new software. Now i've got it back again it has very little boost from the turbo (and an accompanying whining noise from the turbo or very close to it).
Anyone experienced anything similar?
It's one of the first built (delivered July 03) and has 40K on the clock.
In my experience of Diesels, you have to try hard to get one to overheat, so there has to be something seriously wrong. It's obvious that the biggest problem is the dealer, so have you tried getting the opinion of an independent garage?
Is the water being forced out of the header tank? Does the temperature guage rise before that? If the water comes out without the temperature rising, you could have a faulty pressure cap or the garage doesn't know how to fit a cylinder head and each gasket has leaked.
The cooling system is very simple. It's got a centrifugal pump with one moving part. If the pump works and there are no big blockages, it won't overheat. The new thermostats mean that it is unlikely to be stuck closed.
I would check that the radiator stays cold until the temperature guage is at or near the middle, then the radiator should get hot very quickly as the thermostat opens. Check that all the radiator gets hot. If you wait longer, the fan should come on, but it can be difficult to get that to happen with a diesel when idling in cold weather, unless you block the radiator or something.
You might have a water pump pulley that has come free of the shaft so the pump stops when hot, or a hose that has had an inner layer come away so that it blocks the inside. If the interior heater is working, the pump is probably OK.
I have the same trouble with my mini one diesel since two weeks now
The coolant water leaks through the header tank. It looks like the problem comes from an over pressure inside the cooling system.
I already returned the car twice to the dealer to solve the problem. The header tank was changed but my mini still loose water. The car will go back to the dealer next week... They suspect there is a problem with the head gasket or cylinder head ?!
It is also one of the first build (delivered in july 03) and has only 96000 km on the clock.
It's quite a while since i first posted about my overheating Mini but i'll give you a quick update just incase the info can help anyone else.
The car was back at the garage (well 3 different ones) 9 times with the same fault of overheating.
Thermostats replaced twice.
New water bottle
Engine had a new head and seal
The poor thing finally gave up travelling around the M25. I am told one of the valves disintegrated and made its way around the whole engine.
New engine installed at a cost of £7000 (warrantied, Phew!).
I've now sold the Mini and would never touch one again. Not because of the problems with the car, but because of the tortuous ordeal of having to deal with BMW service who were just completely unhelpful throughout.
If you've got problems with your Mini overheating, get it sorted before your warranty runs out !!
I have a Mini One Diesel - the car has just come back from the garage after a starting problem where the radiator was bled.
After travelling for 40miles on some occasions the temperature rises very quickly and then falls again.
I am very confused as it never happens when idling or stood in traffic - the usual overheating scenario.
I have been told by a friend who is more motor mechanically minded than myself that an air lock can occur - also sometimes the heating system doesn't throw out a great deal of heat but that is intermittent as well.
Please help!!! I drive a 2002 Mini Cooper and was involved in an accident. Light bumper bashing - bonnet, grill, bumper and radiator damaged. After getting her back from the panelbeater (repairs took FIVE weeks thanx to the service of BMW!!). I drove her for about 7 days when she started overheating. She's now back at BMW for the FIFTH time - after driving for about 30 km the gauge rises but the moment you switch her off, it goes back to the half mark immediately??? The fan kicks in, the heater works, she does not overheat at all when idling??? BMW bled her about 5 times as they thought that there was an airlock because the radiotor was changed, thermostat changed twice, radiotor cap and waterbottel cap changed and finally, they discovered a crack in the thermostat housing!! This was fixed and she lasted for approx. 200-300km when she did the same thing. Engine seems to stay cool when the gauge lifts, but the water is pushed out the waterbottel?????????????? They are now checking her for headgasket eventhough she does not push out water through the exhaust, nor is there water in the oil, nor is her performance any poorer than before???????PLEASE PLEASE give me some advise as, eventhough I am a woman, it frustrates the living daylights out of me confusing so many people about this problem with no solutions?????
I would like to offer some advice as my car is about to go in in this Friday for a new header tank and hose.
I noticed some months ago that it was leaking a little were the hose connects to the header tank. As the car was going in for an Inspection II service I requested they check it out and replace if required. I was told it was fine, they topped up the coolant and that was it.
As it is still leaking I decided enough is enough and ordered a new header tank and hose from Derek Woodman BMW (great service & a discount).
I also found out that I was meant to have the cooland replaced at 4 years and was never advised by the dealer. So this Friday after 48,000 miles it goes in for new coolant & a header tank and hose. They will fit the parts for free as I was annoyed they did not advise on a coolant change.
The point is, the header tank sits next to the turbo... After a few years of presure and heat the plastic tank and cap will start to leak... As the coolant leaks out we run the risk of low coolant and possible engine damage.
So best to change the tank and coolant before it is to late and always keep an eye on oil and coolant levels!!
Last edited by B1ANK; Aug 13th, 2008 at 08:31 AM.
I have a Mini One D, year 05. I started overheating approximately 2 weeks ago. The engine coolant is vanishing, in one trip I put 8 litres of water in. There is no obvious leaks, checked all hoses, no leaks. System pressurising ok. No water comming out of exhaust, oil level normal, so sure not head gasket. However have heard a slight hiss comming from the expansion tank cap after engine has been running for some time and turned off, but no signs of water being forced out. These problems only seamed to start when I changed the air filter for a K&N panel filter. As a precaution changed back to a paper filter last week. Everything seamed to settle down until today when I overheated again. Topped up coolant with 3 litres of water and left to stand, still no evidence of leakage. However remembered today the first time I have used AirCon for a couple of days, I am beginning to wonder if there might be a link. The car has been regularly serviced and completed 98,000 miles, I have never had a problem with it before. Can anybody advise, she is running fine otherwise. Help!!!!
It sounds like there is no solution to the overheating problem which I am having like those reported in the threads above. New radiator, new cap on bottle, new head gasket and on it goes. For a while the solution seemed to be to keep around 65 mph and it used minimal water on a 100 mile journey - although enough that it needed topping up. Now it is overheating every 20 miles or so on a motorway and needs a 3 litre top up. Current garage thinks it is the gasket. Probably is but not wasting another £2K. Time for a new car. Anyone want this one? Interestingly my earlier car, a Range Rover which also had a BMW diesel engine also needed stitching because it leaked water - although someone told me Mini engines are made by Toyota? Anyone know as keen to avoid similar problems with my new car.
Are the turbos water cooled or oil cooled. Seems mad its causing such a dilemma, does a coolant pressure test reveal anything. If the water is leaking into a cylinder removing the injectors and having a peep at the pistons may help diagnose as water in the cylinder would clean them up abit and you would notice say three black with soot and one shiney having been steam cleaned. Also have the water pumps been removed for inspection not just taken they are good just because they spin. Bleeding engine coolant systems are getting tricker I think it must be something to do with how long they take to warm up and how full the engine bays are that the header tank isnt the optimum position to gravity feed the system. We used to have a bottle in Peugeot that screwed onto the header tank that raised the fill level by say a foot and increased the size of the opening to aid bleeding. There are normally three bleed nipples, one the top heater pipe, one on the thermostat housing and one by the top of the rad. Fill the engine with water with all bleed nipples open, if water starts running out of them tighten the nipple, run the engine and undo the nipples slightly the one on the heater pipe water should come out quite quick retighten that, the other two are abit tricker as you will have to wait untill the thermostat is open to ensure the air is released from the top of the head. Be carefull as the water that runs out will now be very hot, once the thermostat is open(top pipe hot,radiator hot) and you are get just consistent trickle of water out of the slightly open nipples close them up and run untill the cooling fans kick in, there won't be pressure in the system as the pressure cap is still off, after the fans have kicked in make sure the water level is correct and refit the cap, run up untill the fans kick in again but assess the pressure of the system by feeling the top house(very hot) if it seems way to pressurized before the fans kick in. Let the engine cool and repeat once more.if is seems ok that you feel the system pressurize then subside when the fan kicks in. Turn the engine off leave untill stone cold, recheck the level, and keep rechecking from cold every day for a week and that the level has been consistent. This is how I bleed the system and advise the customer to the checks if the water level is consistently dropping I'd carry out a pressure test. This doesn't just bleed the system but it also checks the system as the thermostat should open at about 85 - 88c then drop the fan will kick in just before 100, 94-97 put a thermometer in the header tank to read it if you have one. You check circulation as you see the hot water come from the engine via the thermostat into radiator then the cooler water enter the engine dropping the temp. And the pressure of the system when the cap is on. Sorry for it being long winded but I thought I'd tell people that didn't know how to bleed And check there water system and that if you lose a decent amount of water(none in the header tank) that just by topping up may add air in the system and start the vicious circle of losing water due to pressurizing.PS interior heater on full temp but blowers off to bleed
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