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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 02:42 PM
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Changing Serpentine Belt - question

All I want to do is change the S-belt on a stock 2004 MCS. (56,000 miles) The information I have seen refers to removing the motor mount and removing the tensioner and jacking up the engine. I know this is necessary to remove the SC pulley, but can I skip this and simply swap the belt without lifting the engine?

Any tips will be appreciated!

- Clyde
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Old Mar 19th, 2006, 04:40 PM
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Simply remove the front right wheel (the side with the belt) and then remove the wheel arch liner, its then a case of taking the tension of the belt (compressing the belt tensioner, i did this with a long screwdirver to push the tensoiner back and a thick piece of wire to lock it in place, you can see the route of the serpentine belt when the liner is off and at this stage the belt will be slack, make sure u have a diagram of the route then simply remove the old one and fit a new one, should take twenty mins tops, two people is easier
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 02:40 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. That's just what I wanted to hear!
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 04:35 PM
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Ditto for someone about to get into that as well! (After I fix the gearbox that is.....)
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Hi,

I've a cooper, and have had a squeeky belt for the last month or so when i start the engine and i have tried to fix it myself.
The Haynes manual recommend dropping the engine to get at the belt tensioner with a 3/8" drive ratchet, however this seems pretty darastic, so i tried the above method. I took the wheel well off , but couldn't move the tensioner. Are there any additional suggestions?

Otherwise its off to the garage!

Ta

Gerry

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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 07:10 PM
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You need a long screwdriver or something similar in shape/length, use this as a lever to push the tensioners arm back towards the car, you should see a small rod come out the back of the spring of the tensioner, you then need somthing (a good thick piece of wire like a coathanger or thin screwdriver to lock the tensioner in place (on the second hole that appears) - the tension should then be off the belt - its really trial and error but once you have the tensioner locked in place your flying, i found it easier for me to take the tension and a mate to put the wire in to hold it there

Hope this helps

Mark
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Old Mar 26th, 2006, 08:51 PM
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thanks mark,
i'll try that with a pal. I couldn't do it on my own - i wan't able to move the tensioner on my own - mainly due to the awkward angle i was working at.

Thanks again,

Gerry

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Old Mar 27th, 2006, 03:59 AM
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I changed mine, today. It was more trouble than I hoped, but it worked just fine. didn't have a suitable long screwdriver or prybar to pry back the tensioner, but I went to my local hardware store and picked up a 2' piece of 3/4" angle iron and a #10 x1/2 self tapping screw. I drilled a hole and drove the screw near one end. I put a 17mm socket on the top bolt holding the tensioner and used it as a fulcrum. I put the screw protruding from the piece of angle iron into the lower hole over the idler pulley and pulled back on the angle iron to relieve the tension. I put a small center punch tool into the 2nd hole in the tension tab that comes out through the spring.

After that, it was easy. The old belt came off and the new belt went on. Here is a link to a description of changing out the super charger pulley. There is a diagram of the S-belt circuit in the file: promini.com/technical/install_instructions/pulleyinstructions.pdf

THe belt I took off has nearly 57,000 miles and it looks fine. I'll wait at least another 57k before changing it again! I just wish the tires lasted as long as the belt!
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Old Mar 29th, 2006, 10:30 AM
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DIY fix to squeeking without removing the belt.

I followed R1's suggestion in this thread, clickety click here

Where R1 thought the alternator may be slightly out of line R1's Suggestion

My squeek was definately coming from the alternator area, so i started my engine, followed by "squeek, squeek", I loosened the 3 alternator fixing bolts about 3 turns, started the engine and "SILENCE!!" Wow!!. I tightened them back up and this morning was thefirst quiet start in about 2 months! I think there may be sucess!

Gerry

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Old Feb 18th, 2010, 05:01 PM
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i replaced my belt today. i followed the instrctions for the removal of the rs inner wheel well cover...the main thing to keep in mind is that some of the screws are plastic and strip out very easily. there is a indentation on each side of the plastic screw and you need to put a slotted screwdriver in the indentation then carefully unscrew the phillips head without stripping the screw...there was only 3 metal screws...it was actually vey easy to do
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Old May 30th, 2010, 06:41 PM
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DIY belt tool

The Haynes manual shows you how to build a tool to release the belt tension. I don't have it handy, but willpost ASAP.
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Old May 31st, 2010, 06:23 PM
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Getting a belt tensioner tool similar to the ad below should also make changing the belt much easier.

MINI Cooper - BELT TENSIONER TOOL FACTORY - R52/53 MINI COOPER S - new.MiniMania.com

05MCS BEP Alta 22mm rear anti-swaybar, Madness CAI, Alta 15%, NGK BRK7EIX, M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement plates, BSH Lower Engine Mount
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Old Jul 29th, 2011, 06:25 PM
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belt tensioner

I have a 2004 Mini and when I changed my belt today I found that the tensioner had a place to insert a 3/8th rachet. It need to be a little thin(thank you snap-on) but once installed from the top it was a snap to rotate the tensioner wherever I needed.
Check yours before investing in a special tool and if you have an old rachet I would suggest grinding down the socket attachment point to make it more accessable as it is a tight fit.
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