Bypass valve removal

[Scoobystu]

I am interested in taking the bypass valve off to make sure it is aligned correctly. The problem is there is very little space and I can only see 2 of the bolts holding it on.
I was looking at another option of removing the right hand supercharger inlet which the bypass valve is bolted to. I can see 3 bolts on this and they look easier to remove. There are a few other bit that will have to be removed aswell but again they look more accessable. This way I could take this inlet piece off with the bypass valve still bolted to it. Has anyone gone down this route? Or is there an easy way of getting to the 3 bolts that hold on the bypass valve.

thanks Stuart

[minti]

Quote: Originally Posted by Scoobystu

I am interested in taking the bypass valve off to make sure it is aligned correctly. The problem is there is very little space and I can only see 2 of the bolts holding it on.
I was looking at another option of removing the right hand supercharger inlet which the bypass valve is bolted to. I can see 3 bolts on this and they look easier to remove. There are a few other bit that will have to be removed aswell but again they look more accessable. This way I could take this inlet piece off with the bypass valve still bolted to it. Has anyone gone down this route? Or is there an easy way of getting to the 3 bolts that hold on the bypass valve.

thanks Stuart

remover chargecooler, remove pipe from front to air filter housing, remove pipe from throttlebody to airfilter housing and then remove the part where the bypass valve is attached to.
Thats the way I've done, cause i felt most comfortable with it, there might be different ways...... .

[Scoobystu]

Thanks for the reply.
I assume this is the best way as there are no more posts.
I will have a look into removing it tomorrow. Hopefully I wont drop any nuts when I unbolt it, as retrieving them looks very awkward.

Stuart

[sc1977]

Quote: Originally Posted by Scoobystu

I am interested in taking the bypass valve off to make sure it is aligned correctly. The problem is there is very little space and I can only see 2 of the bolts holding it on.
I was looking at another option of removing the right hand supercharger inlet which the bypass valve is bolted to. I can see 3 bolts on this and they look easier to remove. There are a few other bit that will have to be removed aswell but again they look more accessable. This way I could take this inlet piece off with the bypass valve still bolted to it. Has anyone gone down this route? Or is there an easy way of getting to the 3 bolts that hold on the bypass valve.

thanks Stuart

Can I ask why you are removing it? Are you having a problem? I have an issue with my car where under hard acceleration, the engine light comes on and the DSC light comes on and I experience loss of engine power. I've read a few other people where they are replacing this valve to fix the problem. Is this why you are examining it?

Thanks.

[Scoobystu]

The reason why I am thinking about removing it is that when they are set at the factory they are not adjusted correctly. The butterfly valve which is opened by the bypass valve sometimes doesnt fit snugly in the opening. Therefore letting valuable pressure slip past. I am interested in taking it off to check the clearance and adjust if necessary. Reading some of the posts regarding it means it can lead to a gain of around 5-8 bhp if it needs tweaking and can help to cure jurkiness.

Stuart

[Scoobystu]

I had a go at trying to remove it today. What a nightmare. How on earth do you get it out? I couldnt remove the pipe as there is no room. I had the intercooler manifold loose with the bypass valve attached but I couldnt get any of the pipes off the valve to take it out. I was concerned that if I did manage to prize the pipe off I wouldnt be able to get it back on again. Looks like I will have to leave it.

[obehave]

Quote: Originally Posted by Scoobystu

I had a go at trying to remove it today. What a nightmare. How on earth do you get it out? I couldnt remove the pipe as there is no room. I had the intercooler manifold loose with the bypass valve attached but I couldnt get any of the pipes off the valve to take it out. I was concerned that if I did manage to prize the pipe off I wouldnt be able to get it back on again. Looks like I will have to leave it.

Sorry to hear that.
With the right tools it's a bit of a pain but doable and worth doing.
Any MINI2ers close enough to yo that have done it.

Also I took off the throttle body. I didn't see you mention that but that helps quite a bit.

[Cooper_si]

Quote: Originally Posted by Scoobystu

I had a go at trying to remove it today. What a nightmare. How on earth do you get it out? I couldnt remove the pipe as there is no room. I had the intercooler manifold loose with the bypass valve attached but I couldnt get any of the pipes off the valve to take it out. I was concerned that if I did manage to prize the pipe off I wouldnt be able to get it back on again. Looks like I will have to leave it.

Ive done a few of these now...i did mine so that it came off with the right hand intercooler horn This after removing the airbox pipes, throttlebody, intercooler, etc etc

Just pleeeaaaassseeee watch you dont put too much pressure on the supercharger intake pipe, as theres a small tab that holds it in place to the charger, and any force downwards will snap this tab and cause to rough idle, bouncing revs and a bill for a new pipe...i know, ive seen it done

[Scoobystu]

I removed the intercooler and undun the 3 bolts holding the intercooler horn on. I also released the clip holding the pipe that goes into the airbox. The problem is all the pipes seem to be connected to a unit which may be the throttlebody or air flow meter. This is then connected to something bolted to the gearbox. Its this that I need to remove to pull the hole lot out in one piece, but access is the problem. Any ideas?

thanks Stuart

[Scoobystu]

I have eventually managed to do it. The only thing was I wasnt sure how far to unscrew the adjuster. I only went about three quarters of a turn until the butterfly valve was resting on the throttle body and not the adjuster and then turned it back a about a quarter of a turn so that the butterfly assembly was back resting on the adjuster.
There didnt look much of a gap before I started so maybe mine wasnt set too bad from the factory. I will give it a drive and see if it feels any quicker.

thanks Stuart