you can get a 15% pulley and ECU fitted for under $2k (AmD is just one example brand you could investigate) and that will give you 20-25bhp gain at the front wheels
I have a 15% pulley, K&N Typhoon Intake, and UUC Exhaust to name the best bang for the buck. I got about 20hp at the wheels I'm guessing........cuz I was told by Eric at Helix that I should spank a JCW (which as far as I can tell I can) but I have yet to dyno the thing.
Pulley was $385 installed.
- Love the kick in the pants - this is BY FAR the best mod for the money.
Intake - $200 (installed myself)
- Half for looks, half for performance (doesn't really do that much)
Exhaust - $950 + $80 for installation.
- Great sound, not too loud, perfect match for my other mods.
Just for info, I have dyno plots that show a 25bhp gain at the wheels from an AmD pulley and oneclick upgrade. (Same dyno, no playing with dyno settings or anything - it's a legit gain)
I also have dyno plots that show a 0bhp gain at the wheels (same dyno same car) with a pipercross intake and a cat back exhaust (locally made, but very similair to the big name systems)
Intake and exhaust make really nice sounds, but in *my* experience, add no tangible power gains to the car.
Was the dyno and instal done @ ALS? I remember when I drove away with the AMD pulley and "one-click" remap I was blown away! For less than $2k I had JCW performance yet everything looks completely stock (nice and subtle). I've said it before and I'll say it again that BANG FOR BUCK you can't go past the combination of pulley and ECU remap. I really does make that much difference.
BMW E36 M3R Alpine White - Engine : 6 cylinder; DOHC 24 valve Capacity : 2990cc Power : 243KW @ 7000 rpm Torque : 323NM @ 3900rpm Produced : Jan - May 1995 How many :15 ONLY
under $2k?
i had a chat to the guy in melbourne at QSZ and he put me on to ALS and said for the AmD Pulley and ECU it would be $2400... ?.. must have gone up.
how do you find that scorpian exhaust? he said that costs 1950 +instal
do you think having an AmD ECU and a different pulley would be a problem?
i was thinking of getting an alta pulley (15%) soon then later down the track getting the AmD ECU..
Yep, definitely under $2k. From memory the "one-click" device was $1300 the pulley&belt $300 and labour x 2hrs @ $85 per hour.. However, I think I was the 1st person in Aust. to cross the AMD drawbridge and QSZ was aware of that.
I really do like the Scorpion exhaust! $1950 was exactly the amount I paid. It is a British-made stainless-steel piece which has been "sculptured" for performance and aural pleasure (sic). The muffler cans don't hang below the chasis line like with the JCW catback and one could only describe the sound as "agressive"
You can get the Alta pulley or perhaps a locally made one - the result is the same. Goto http://www.capa.com.au/main.htm they say:
upgrade kit for the MINI Cooper S
29th April 2003
Get more power from your Supercharged MINI Cooper S with our economical and effective 3-piece pulley upgrade kit. A 15% reduction in the supercharger pulley diameter increases the boost by more than 4 pounds resulting in a dyno measured 20+ horsepower gain AT THE WHEELS. Maximum boost is achieved at lower RPM's giving more power in the mid-range. This unique 3-piece design allows installation of the pulley onto the shaft without a press, and enables easy removal to change the pulley size. The Kit includes a new high quality 3-piece pulley and belt. Please contact CAPA for more information.
In the States there have been 100s of pulley installations without an ECU remap to no ill effect with many opting to do the ECU later.
Needless to say, once you've upped the boost you'll never go back! Power is addictive and the Mini can more than handle it.
Also, 2bob has had a reduced pulley installed locally - you might want PM him for details and price.
BMW E36 M3R Alpine White - Engine : 6 cylinder; DOHC 24 valve Capacity : 2990cc Power : 243KW @ 7000 rpm Torque : 323NM @ 3900rpm Produced : Jan - May 1995 How many :15 ONLY
A pulley is by far the biggest bang for the buck. 15%, 17% or 19% take your pick.
The next biggest bang, IMHO would be a larger rear anti sway bar
Then ditch the runflats and get some light weight wheels and some good performance tires.
You could do a different intake and exhaust but the gains from now on will be nothing like the other mods
That's exactly what I did...except I did the intake first (easy dyi install) and the exhaust (since I need that growl!)
THe SSR Competitions wheels that I have are awesome! 17"! Only 13lbs!
I also got the Pirelli P Zero Nero 215/45/17 M/S....EVen though I get the occasional rub (even after trimming my wheel well) I love 'em. The true test will come this summer (Edit: I mean WINTER).
I also got the RDR 19mm rear sway bar from Helix...as well as the short shift kit....and lemme tell you the short shift kit is awesome. I'm still waiting for Ian Cull to tell me that he went ahead and got his installed!
"Do or do not. There is no try."
- Master Yoda
Last edited by LordOfTheFlies; Jul 25th, 2004 at 12:38 AM.
VINI, dont be confused with the prices they are talking, some are USD and some are AUD...
IML got his kit from online rather than QSZ, the Aussie dealers for the AmD kits... this prorved to be a big saving for him... you just have to get it installed...
Depending on what state you are in, there are a few different installers... update your info, so we know which state you are in...
Todd
PROJECT POLARIS - Die Wiedergeburt eines kultautos
Basically there are a few screws that you have take out and a few plastic bolts. Very easy job and you just need to dremmel the parts that show rubbing........
However, it depends on your setup since I have +42mm offset wheels that are 17 x 7.5 with wider tires (215 instead of 205) and taller (45 aspect ratio with a wider tire means taller). Your situation might be different.
My rims are RS Watanabe 16 x 7.0, ET40 on 205/50/16 Yokohama/Advan AD07 tires. These tires seem to have exceptionally broad shoulders so that might be part of the problem (apart from offset) Have a look at my personal gallery for pics or check out
Because I'm only running -1.0 F and -0.5 R camber, would it help to add more negative camber, say go to -2.0F and -1.0R settings? I'm fully aware of the handling implications, so I just need to know from a rubbing stand point if it helps. I prefer more oversteer anyways..
Current suspension is H&R RSS club sport coilovers. I already have adjustable rear control arms, and thinking about getting the RDR front camber plates.
I had a chat to the guy at QSZ, i think he might own the company .. not sure..
But anyway. the ECU AmD has overseas is different to the ECU in australia.
He said that they spent about 4 days on the dyno and fiddling with the ECU settings to make the ECU for australian conditions. which are apparently things like fuel type and road conditions etc.
i talked to him a while ago. but he sure did convince me to get it from here rather then the net. thats just my opinion though.. i dont know everything on this topic
Read your other post - if you are getting rubbing with 16" wheels then I would look at your ride height instead of trimming the wheel well. Trimming reduced the rubbing but did not completely remove it unfortunately...but that's what you (and I) get for messing with the tire size and wheel offset!
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