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| First Generation MINI Tuning Tuning the first generation MINI 2001 - 2006 |
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| Hi, I have EBC `s now. They are starting too develop grooves in them- only done, maybe 500-600 miles on track. up until recently I would have recommended them,it looks like they are going to have a short life unfortunately. Not much help i know but atleast you might know what to avoid K |
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| Wiggly, Check out the Tar-Ox G88 disks as sold by MED-Engineering or any decent MINI retailer. Together with greenstuff pads you won't find a tougher or more effective brake setup for the price, guaranteed. I'm still astonished how well my brakes perform (as described above) and I heartily recommend that setup. The only downside is the price but you get what you pay for...TUV approval, heat-treated rotors etc Cheers, Henry |
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Greenstuff I haven't changed my discs but have put greenstuff pads front & rear - the difference in amount of brake dust covering the alloys is well worth the extra they might cost. With the oem pads the front wheels were covered with black dust within days - now its 2 weeks since I changed them and there's hardly anything to see. The braking is just as good as the originals now that they have part bedded in, and are supposed to be better when fully settled in. |
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| i have ran ferodo ds2500 for about 2 months now and i can vouch they make about 3/4 of the dust of the oem pads.. they are still black within a week, but not as evident... their performance once heated up though has been... tremendously improved... only downside is when they are real cold they may not stop as well as oem i have stock disc by the way.. i heard power slot has worked well, but a buddy of mine warped them on just one track school on a brake heavy course... 03 Dark Silver MCS w/ White roof |
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| Wigley, The Disks are standard size and retain the standard calipers. How soon do you need these brakes? It's just that I will be putting a big brake kit on my car soon in anticipation of alot more power and would therefore be willing to sell mine on for a reasonable cost. The pads are hardly worn even after 2K miles and the rotors are unbelievably hard wearing :O By the way, 300 quid all in installed is blooming cheap for these rotors, pads and labour :O Cheers, Henry |
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| Grooved discs are fine, but not millions of grooves like the fashionable tarox disc (they shred your pads and offer such a little improvement in coolings its just not worth paying the extra). The most important thing would be that its heat treated to a decent level. I would aim for say 4, or 6 grooves, max. Drilled discs are pretty much always bad news. On Porsches and Ferraris they are cast, not simply drilled. They're also much thicker than on aftermarket applications, even the like of Brembo. I would not recommend EBC to anyone, not even Hitler. Ferodos are the ones to go for. To be honest, its fairly superficial though, you get major improvements in braking from larger discs and better calipers. Pads can give better bite and wear more but won't really improve braking distances. Many people have really old discs and pads, replace them with aftermarket and think WOW! but fail to realise a fresh set of OEM will give the same results.. The main problem with brakes is heat, lets remember, its all about friction. Together with better pad and BIGGER discs you want better brake fluid, and make sure there is plenty of air getting to those brakes Sorry if thats confusing, im doing this in between work..basically..i'd recommend for occasional trackday use.. OEM discs (or solids that have a better temp rating), braided brakehoses, Motul 600 fluid (DOT 4), Ferodo pads and thsoe fancy brake air intakes you can get from JCW. Have fun! -Rob |
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