57 Cooper S boot and passenger door - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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57 Cooper S boot and passenger door

I've got a 57 plate Cooper S and until recently I'd never had a problem with it from new... Now in the space of 2 months things are starting to go wrong.

Firstly, my passenger door lock wont open on the key fob. When I unlock the car the passenger door stays locked. I am able to open it manually from the inside though. I've been to Cooper Colchester and they diagnosed it wanting a 300 door lock. My question is, what part do I need to order and could I fit it myself?

Secondly, the boot won't open. This however, WILL open on the key fob but WON'T open manually?? They've told me I need a new boot plinth at 120. Again, is this a part I could fix myself if I were to get the part?

Also, how do I turn the service lights off? Im in the process of trying to sell the car but don't want to spend nearly 1K on servicing and repairing it first. Is there a way to turn the service warning lights off so they don't appear on start up?

Thanks in advance. This is one of the most helpful forums I've read for a long time. Regards, Ian
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 04:37 PM
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Hi Ian,

I have the same problem as you with the passenger side door. It sounds like your actuator has failed. If your handy throwing a spanner then you'd probably be able to change it yourself. There is a guide on youtube on how to change the actuator. The part you need is 65 from ebay Brand New Genuine BMW MINI One / Cooper / S Door Lock Actuator N/S R55 R56 R57 | eBay

Secondly, your boot problem. I too recently had this and I took the mechanism out and simply cleaned it up with wd40 and a wire brush. The job took no more than 20 minutes and was easy to do.

To fix it first open the boot lid with the manual cable under the rear seat then remove the boot card panel (star screws from memory). Then disconnect the wire feeding the boot switch. There are 4 torx screws on outside of the boot lid that you need to undo, once undone you can pop the chrome finishing out and remove the boot switch to clean up. Refit in reverse order.

Hope this helps
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2014, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks very much!
That is all a great a help.
I just watched a video by an American chap on YouTube and it looks like a fix I could do myself so I'll be ordering the part.
I'll take the boot card off at the same time and hopefully the lock just needs cleaning up like your one did.
Fingers crossed it'll be back to it's best in no time.
Cheers for taking the time. Regards, Ian
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2014, 03:16 PM
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No problem Ian, I will do my door actuator when funds are available. I have been concentrating on other areas of the car and I have purchased a full set of disks, pads and brake pad wear sensors. Next on my list is wheel sensors and paint to do the callipers so when I have them I will do the lot in one go. After that I will do the door actuator. Its only me who uses the car so its not a high priority
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 2014, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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I tackled the passenger door lock today... 5 hours later... It's fixed
It's certainly not a job for the faint hearted though. To make enough room to get at the lock I ended up taking the whole window and rails out. It was still a very fiddly job though. All back together now though and working a dream.
Unfortunately the boot lock is still not working though. I bought the wrong part. From the mini diagnoses I thought it needed the lock replacing but after replacing it I found it was actually the latch in the boot door that is broken. Maybe the sensor on the handle has broken? Im going to try getting a new boot plinth and see if this fixes the problem. The boot is very easy to fix though compared to the door!
The YouTube video was very helpful as a guide for anyone else trying to attempt it.
ATB, Ian
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 2014, 09:28 AM
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To make room to remove & replace the door actuator/lock you only have to loosen off the bottom of the window guide nearest the lock....you slide it towards the inside of the door panel and then you should be able to get the lock out and back in. Then you only have to get the window guide roughly back to its original position afterwards.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2014, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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In an ideal world I suppose that would work but it's near impossible to get the wire reconnected on the hook at the back. You'd have to have a dainty little hand to get in there. By taking the window out you have plenty of room to get at the door handle wire. Anyway, it's fixed and only cost a tenth of the price. Well worth the effort.
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