Mini Cooper R50 Parts List for a Service - MINI Cooper Forum

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post #1 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Mini Cooper R50 Parts List for a Service

I am getting a new clutch fitted in 2 weeks. So I thought, I may as well give the car a good service. This will be my first one, so I am keen to get my hands dirty and save a few quid.

Could someone recommend some parts, and also tools required please.

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post #2 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 10:46 PM
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What is your intent Rob ?

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post #3 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:03 PM
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These are specific tools you will require

1- Oil filter socket 36mm
2- Spark plug socket 14mm
3- Waste oil catcher tub
4- Axle stands + trolley jack

When doing a service I'd also renew the sump plug, these can be picked up at BMW for about a fiver or invest in a good magnet sump plug.
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post #4 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:12 PM
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13mm for sump plug

Engine oil 5w30 BMW ll04 spec
I use total oil

Gearbox oil red line mtl or mtf94

Pas fluid pentosin ch11s

Coolant green or blue

Brake fluid dot 4


Also don't tighten the balls out of your sump plug because it's a steel sump plug going into a soft ally sump and it will strip!!.




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post #5 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Just to get used to doing a service and learning in the process. So I am looking for advice on what ways to do it and im what order
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post #6 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rdb85 View Post
Just to get used to doing a service and learning in the process. So I am looking for advice on what ways to do it and im what order
Generally I do the oil first and while that's draining I do the air filter, cabin filter,oil filter,spark plugs.

Once they are all done I put the sump plug back in and top up the oil 4.5 liters and check for leaks around the oil filter housing and sump plug.

After that biz I take it for a short drive, come home jack it up and change the gearbox oil

Brake fluid can be done by two people or one if you have a 1 man bleeder kit


25mn for the oil filter housing

18nm for sump plug.

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post #7 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:34 PM
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I wouldn't bother with the gearbox oil until after the clutch has been done coz they have to drain it and they usually use cheap shyte

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post #8 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:36 PM
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Critical will be a torque wrench for when your nipping stuff up, especially the sump plug and spark plugs. Be very careful with the sump plug and examine it when you take it out for any bits of thread as your screwing steel into alloy and most over tighten it and start to strip threads. Look for any sign of alloy thread on the plug and poke your finger in to feel for bits of swarf. Plugs pop out as they are never correctly tightened and as per the GTT article, strip the last 3-4 threads as they blow out. Same for the oilfilter housing, can be a tight *** to crack open and again, a lot are over tightened when reinstalled.

I have 3 torque wrenches, big medium and small (small is in inch/lbs), A good selection of torx bits as well as a decent socket set and a variety of long nosed pliers. If you looking at bushings, the appropriate tools and splitter's.

Also get the sliver bowls with magnets on the base to keep all the bolts and screws in one place and they are inexpensive. Also a decent rubber coated mallet for hitting things and even a bricklayers lump hammer can come in handy and a decent cheater bar.


Don't forget Modmini videos on YouTube, they are a must to watch several times to get the work order embedded in your mind before you start. I have been DIY cars and motorbikes for over 40 years and I still use them to give me a refresher regardless of the Bentley manual and Haynes manual I use.
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post #9 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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I have found a motor factor which Sean has mentioned will be better for parts. Just not sure on brands

https://m.gsfcarparts.com/liverpool?
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post #10 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information lads. I will have a read.

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post #11 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:41 PM
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I bet Mr Milpol still has the odd brickies hammer in his tool kit. I have trouble swinging my mel about under the bonnet but my cold chisels still come in handy

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post #12 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:42 PM
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This is the service list for the R50/R53
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Inspection 1.pdf (60.5 KB, 48 views)
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post #13 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Only tools I have so far are 200 piece Halfords tool kit. Screwdrivers and some Torx bits plus a 1/2 breaker bar and torq wrench which I've used on my locking nuts for my alloys.
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post #14 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:53 PM
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You will build on specific tools as you go along Rob and even make your own tools, I have made my own suspending bracket to support the engine when the gearbox is out when using the engine support beam. A locking bar to loosen or tighten the flywheel and also use it to tighten or loosen the pressure plate. Also made my own clutch slave compression tool. Another tool you will get off Ebay is the camshaft locking tool for when you either change the timing chain guides or take the head off. Again, Modmini has done the same (my inspiration) when he has done the same work so again, watching his videos is very informative. The blown engine series is also informative as is the clutch change videos and I use the same engine support beam.

Use of the engine support beam is a lot easier than supporting the engine block on a trolley jack and prob a lot safer once its setup. If you want to fabricate one, let me know and I will send you the specifications but they are available on ebay and not expensive.
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post #15 of 67 (permalink) Old Nov 26th, 2016, 11:55 PM
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25mn for spark plugs and oil file housing

18nm for sump plug and gearbox plugs.

When you are lowering the spark plugs into the head it is a good idea to use a piece of rubber tubing on the ceramic to get the spark plugs started on the threads coz they are unbelievably easy to cross thread the rubber tube will distort before any damage is done!

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