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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Indy Garages

Bit of a long shot but can anyone recommend any decent Indy Garages around Liverpool?

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 06:54 PM
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What are you getting done now Rob?

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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It's just quotes Sean. Looked at the subframe and it scared me. As if I get it wrong...
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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As my power steering pump has started to get louder, plus I need a hand fitting that exhaust.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2017, 09:32 PM
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Rob, by subframe, are you referring to the front subframe holding the PS pump ?

Its hard to get it wrong and looks a lot more daunting than you will find it is. From memory its only 10 bolts for the subframe, there is the PS reservoir that you need to guide past the back of the engine. Also the steering joint, lower ball joints, drop links and tie rod ends that need to be undone. Then, obviously Plus you need the car in front end service mode and on jack stands. When you reinstall it, aside from guiding the PS reservoir back into place, the subframe has 2 dowels (one either side) so you know it is located correctly once you raise it into place.

Just watch Modmini drop his front end out when he does either the R50 or R53 clutch change on his videos as he covers all of it.


Don't forget, the secret is to take your time the 1st time and its an easy 1/2 day job, the next time you will wonder what the fuss was all about ! honestly.


rgds Jeff
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Rob, by subframe, are you referring to the front subframe holding the PS pump ?

Its hard to get it wrong and looks a lot more daunting than you will find it is. From memory its only 10 bolts for the subframe, there is the PS reservoir that you need to guide past the back of the engine. Also the steering joint, lower ball joints, drop links and tie rod ends that need to be undone. Then, obviously Plus you need the car in front end service mode and on jack stands. When you reinstall it, aside from guiding the PS reservoir back into place, the subframe has 2 dowels (one either side) so you know it is located correctly once you raise it into place.

Just watch Modmini drop his front end out when he does either the R50 or R53 clutch change on his videos as he covers all of it.


Don't forget, the secret is to take your time the 1st time and its an easy 1/2 day job, the next time you will wonder what the fuss was all about ! honestly.


rgds Jeff
Thanks Jeff, yeah I know I just need to bite the bullet. Just a fear I have that it will go horribly wrong. Its in for its MOT on the 1st Feb so hopefully if I do the service then some general checks it should pass. If it needs a lot of work then I may have to sell it unfortunately
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 01:26 PM
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So long as the power steering pump is working then it will pass the test Rob. Milpol is spot on with the job being straight forward, all parts are bolt on - bolt off so you can't go wrong. If your ever unsure then take photos of how things should be as you go along

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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So long as the power steering pump is working then it will pass the test Rob. Milpol is spot on with the job being straight forward, all parts are bolt on - bolt off so you can't go wrong. If your ever unsure then take photos of how things should be as you go along

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I will take photos as I go along on my phone, as I dont have a digital camera. I like to go pro that Mod Mini uses that is a great idea,
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 03:37 PM
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your camera phone will be just fine Rob. I'ts always a good idea to have a squint over the Haynes or Bentley beforehand prior to doing a job if your unsure or its your first time
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I have my Haynes manual there will get it ready when I do my service.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I've noticed on the Mod Mini videos he uses quite a few pliers. I've ordered a set of Knipex Water Pump pliers. Do I need any others do you think?
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2017, 10:07 PM
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2017, 01:40 AM
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2017, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdb85 View Post
I've noticed on the Mod Mini videos he uses quite a few pliers. I've ordered a set of Knipex Water Pump pliers. Do I need any others do you think?
I have 2 x pliers I have purchased due to Modmini and they are bloody handy, aside from that, I would only ever use normal pliers of the size required. I will post a pic of them in the morning so you know the ones I mean. In regards to the Mini, work always looks daunting due to how much of the car you pull apart compared to what one would do on what you would call a standard vehicle. With the Mini, it is extremely compact with minimal workspace or access. This is because it is of a modular design so that as a module is removed, it then enables clear and unrestricted access to what you need to get to. This would seem excessive in a standard Nth/Sth vehicle but actually makes a lot of sense and makes the job a lot easier. Owners come undone when they try to avoid removing the required modules and therefore complicate the work by attempting a repair in what you would call a conventional method used in Nth/Sth engine designs.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2017, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I have 2 x pliers I have purchased due to Modmini and they are bloody handy, aside from that, I would only ever use normal pliers of the size required. I will post a pic of them in the morning so you know the ones I mean. In regards to the Mini, work always looks daunting due to how much of the car you pull apart compared to what one would do on what you would call a standard vehicle. With the Mini, it is extremely compact with minimal workspace or access. This is because it is of a modular design so that as a module is removed, it then enables clear and unrestricted access to what you need to get to. This would seem excessive in a standard Nth/Sth vehicle but actually makes a lot of sense and makes the job a lot easier. Owners come undone when they try to avoid removing the required modules and therefore complicate the work by attempting a repair in what you would call a conventional method used in Nth/Sth engine designs.
It does scare me when you see how much he pulls apart on his videos. I just dont want to be sat there like Recommended pliers would be great
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