MINI Cooper Forum banner

Timing chain question on a possible used MCS purchase

5K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  Rorence 
#1 ·
I'm going to look and hopefully buy a 54plate r53 mcs with 75k on it andjust wondered if the timing chain tensioner is normally due around now or can they go on for much longer ?
 
#2 ·
they go when they go no rule of thumb some do 150k some do 50k not hard to replace on the tritec engine, i only ever use OM ones as cheap ones are rubbish, FAI or febi bilsteen are as good as OM if not a tad better it would seem, reving engine at 2500 rev just on and the over run and listen for chain slap noises best way to tell if things need looking at, just done a 2.0hdi engine today like that as chain that links cams together was ill, sounded fine on idle and on gas it was on the overrun where engine not loaded either way
 
#4 ·
fozworth, to replace the tensioner is a simple job if you can DIY. The only PITA part is access to the tensioner bolt, this is easier to get to if you remove the inner wheel liner and pop the heat exchanger (Oil Cooler) off to gain access. If you pm me I can send you a PDF I made about changing the tensioner. The only parts you need to purchase is a new tensioner and 2 x o rings for the heat exchanger. Removing the Heat Exchanger removes the need for a swivel bit on your wrench and allows a straight line when you want to correctly torque up the bolt on completion and saves skinned knuckles.
 
#5 ·
Cheers Milpol , yeh I'm aware of that little job ,it was the bigger job of changing the chain ,guides and gear wheels if necessary that I was concerned about and wanted to know prices on the labour side to do it .
I really hope the car doesn't need it and wondered if there was a difference in sound if your chain is slack or guilts are worn compaired to just the tensioner being on the way out?
 
#6 ·
yes hold at 2500 no load either way over run at that point,, as for changing chain kit fairly easy the oil pump is the timing chain cover as such timing dont need any specail tools to lock its got coloured links on the chain and marks on the sprockets, remove rocker box alternator bracket as well loosen off, easy job
 
#10 ·
The cam locking tool has an additional tool where you remove the tensioner and install the additional tool to measure the compression, this measurement tells you if the chain is serviceable or not, that's the only way to check for chain stretch aside from removing it and checking against a new chain. There is no sound to listen to except the rattle as the chain is slack due to a worn and stuck tensioner, if the chain is running slack, then the tensioner is stuck in the compressed position (age related normally) and your chain is beating the guides to death. If your chains stretched then you need to replace both cam and crank sprockets as a set along with the guides. With your stated mileage of 75k I would be looking at replacing the tensioner. That will either sort it or not and if you do need new guides or chain/sprocket set, you already have a new tensioner.
 
#12 ·
you dont need locking tools for the tritec engine and on a 54 reg it will be the tritec engine and not the vti vvt engine, tritec has only timing marks and coloured chain links,
after 2006 i believe was change over point to the vti engines which you totally correct on will need special locks tools and measuring the travel on the guide tensioner is one way the other and best way is to lock them off put preload on tensioner and see if cam locks will go in to place,, if dont then replace the lot
 
#11 · (Edited)
thanks Milpol, so to sum things up when I go look at this car tonight ,if there's no rattle on start up then that's great ,but if there's a rattle for around 10-15 secs and then it goes that's hopefully just the tensioner ,being it's only done 75k .But if the rattle doesn't go then it's more than likely the guides and therefore possibly worth considering at that point that I might have to factor a full chain sprocket swap which in that case I will walk away unless he drops by £700 quid which I was quoted .
 
#13 ·
#16 ·
which locking tool do you mean have you a link to it i'm curious now
 
#24 ·
i've never used that tool when doing the tritec lock off cam with two pairs of molgrips on the sprocket to hold then undo bolt, the bottom pulley is the main in arse need a special puller that hooks behind the spokes on the pulley and put pressure on it then give a hit with hammer normal set guide up by feel,, or use impact gun if have one is best. its funny how how when working day in day out on stuff how get around things with a bit of thought
 
#20 ·
Fozworth, for what its worth, make sure the car is cold and not started prior to inspecting it, if its been warmed up then let it cool off and restart it. Also listen for any rumble around the waterpump as the Super Charger most likely has never been serviced so any rumble may indicate a worn PTO on the super charger. Clutch and flywheel are a PITA to do but not difficult and I swapped mine out for a Valeo single mass unit which works great. Expect to change the rear (dogbone) engine mount under the car or atleast install the power flex insert kit. Also check the shock towers for deformation (take a 6" steel rule) and make sure they are flat and not domed. Bargain hard and don't be afraid to walk away and where possible, get vin numbers before you inspect and have Mini pull a workshop (not service) record from the Vin.
 
#21 ·
I'll listen for a rumble ref the water pump and the pre mentioned rattle .I don't mind replacing a tensioner or mount bushes but don't want to get involved in any major repairs as I don't have the funds .
As I'm travelling on a train for 3 hours I'm not able to do much of an in depth check but have bought plenty of cars over the last 30 years and I am very critical to a point (almost to critical) so hopefully I won't get stung but it's always a gamble to a certain extent as we know . I just wanted some extra info on the timing rattle issues which you have kindly helped with .
Fingers crossed it's all good .
 
#22 ·
Foz, as you know, any secondhand car is an unknown unless you strike an honest john that can prove any work done, that's why I keep all receipts and photo all work I do lest I have to sell and can prove the maintenance. Both Mike, Sean and I use a Delphi OBD tool for diagnostics so when you have the cash its a worthy investment, Mike has the link for the OBD tool.
 
#25 ·
Ok so it's a bitter sweet end really or something like that anyway .
So the mini was tidy especially for an all black car . Apart from one small parking dink it was very straight with no rust .
But and there's always buts . Right away I noticed the front bonnet was slightly on the **** as in the panel gap between the scuttle and bonnet was not an even gap ,not a big issue but it led me to looking further at the paint on the front and it had been painted as the finish was just slightly different ,again it's a 12 year old car so it's no real supprise . The front bumper top bolts were missing and the lower fixing were missing so the bumper was a little loose . As was one of the bonnet catches .All this lead me to think it had been done recently but it was all clear on the vehicle check and the job was pretty dam good with no dodgy panel gaps apart from the prementioned bonnet . He had told me that he had recently had the cam seal replaced as it was leaking oil and the under side on the drivers side was pretty oily but I've seen worse . The rest looked ok .
I then started it up and it was stone cold .There was no timing chatter but I did notice a slight chatter from the clutch end which when I depressed the clutch pedal went . I had this years ago and it turned out to be a thrust bearing but led me to change the clutch and flywheel while it was stripped . Once warm the noise did go a little and the clutch bite seemed pretty good with pedal not to heavy .there was also a bit of a clatter from the water pump end ? Not sure if that was the pump and wasn't sure if that would of cost a lot to repair .
The car drove well but with the clutch issue I asked if he would take 2k instead of 2300 thinking about 400 for a clutch job . He would only go to 2200 which wasn't enough for me . As I had travelled two hours on a train I came back with 2100 as that would pay for half the job ish . .But he said no so I was dropped back at the station and heading home . I managed to get on the earlier train and as wejust got up to speed he called and said ok 2100 but it was to late . I hope I didn't pass on a good mini .
I guess it just wasn't meant to be .
Looking at something different tomos as I need a "mini break" ��
 
#26 ·
Would be bitter sweet Foz but my gut tells me you did the right thing, if he couldn't be bothered to clean the oil away for a car sale after having a seal replaced and with the clutch chatter and missing bolts etc, I have a feeling there would have been other issues lurking. Plenty of other cars to consider when the right one comes up. Its hard enough having the cash to fix normal maintenance issues and age related wear and tear and unless you had a spare 2k in reserve for things like clutch units etc its your hard earned cash your playing with. I had a 3k reserve to play with when I purchased my R53 with known issues a few years ago, with maintenance and age related wear, I have now consumed that reserve with the main issue being a hole in the gearbox which I repaired but ended up getting a replacement gearbox which is overdue to be installed whilst I'm rebuilding the front end. When I look at what I have done on both the R50 and R53, I have spent a few dollars but have saved a small fortune even after buying specific speciality tools required for the jobs.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top