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  #16 (permalink)  
Old Mar 5th, 2009, 01:51 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bonnie Scotland (original)
Am kinda holding off on writing a wee story until i've learned how to drive it better.
But, around town etc it's just like standard, on the motorways it sits comfortably at the speed limit.
I was amazed at just how quiet the conversion is, no throaty exhaust noise, but, plenty of induction whoosh

Hi,
Is this the same Bonnie Scotland who used to have a BBR 240 conversion ???
Come one spill the beans on how this car drives !

Cheers

Perm

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old Mar 9th, 2009, 07:04 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Perm (original)
Hi,
Is this the same Bonnie Scotland who used to have a BBR 240 conversion ???
Come on spill the beans on how this car drives !

Cheers

Perm

Yep, one and the same

Well, still not got to grips with it yet, but, that's more to do with working away from home and not having had real time to drive the car.
But, i can advise that i'm struggling to get the power down smoothly and effectively, which isn't a complaint, i just need to work on it a bit.
I can spin the wheels easily in 4th gear, which, is hard to control
The way the car is set up once traction is lost the TC actually remains in the off position until an engine restart, which, when you think about it is far more safer than having it cutting in all the time and continually cutting the engine power.
The engine light (Not the EML) is always on due to the boost being more than the 17psi warning level, so, if this annoys you then you are gonna have to live with this.
I did have it reset once, but, as soon as you hit the peak boost in either 18 or 21 psi then the light appears again.
As it slightly annoys me that the light is visible i'd appreciate any info on how to have the light extinguished, would prefer the non led removal route, any way to increase the setting might be useful. Again, this is not a complaint.
Roland explains it really well and why it can be a good thing to have it visible.

I have a 2 stage switchable boost setting, 18 and 21 psi, both settings give excellent driveability around town and i now leave it on the 21psi setting, i never need it in town anyway so it's not an issue for me.
Roland may have other opinions about that, but, i'm happy enough.

It is obvious that there is plenty of power there, not measured on a dyno, but the "feel" is different, i won't be going anywhere near a dyno so please don't ask me to quantify my "power" figures.

Motorway driving is also ok, it'll sit comfortably at the national limits and to the "allowed" motoway speeds, the only annoying thing here (and on A class roads) is that on slight uphill gradients the boost engages, obviously to give it more fuel, but, the induction noise can be irritating, but, this is easily overcome by a quick increase in speed to gain momentum and lifting off to maintain the speed sorts it out.
Initially the sound was welcomed for the obvious reasons and it still brings a wee smile, but, latterly i find it too intrusive, but, it's easily dealt with and doesn't bother me.

The exhaust note has diminished to the extent that even at my advanced years i will be seeking an alternative to increase the tone, this may actually help eliminate the boost noise
I've been advise that Milltek is the way to go, so, we'll see sometime in the future.
However, under spirited driving there is a significant back fire and i've had confirmed sparks flying out the back

Mileage was 21mpg but has increased to approx 25mpg and i'm hoping that i can educate the ecu a wee bit higher the more i drive it.
I don't hang about out of town (sticking to limits of course)

I'm still a bit reluctant to give it max in the current weather conditions, the roads have generally been slippy and i'd rather wait until the wintry stuff disappears before i do, however, i'm curious to know what other high performance owners have tyre wise on their cars?
I have Toyo Proxies and i must admit that the lack of straight line grip under hard accelration may be down to the wrong tyre choice.

Of course, with this engine conversion i thought it prudent to upgrade the braking and suspension, this was achieved with the Porsche brake kit, Bilstein suspesnion and all the strut braces ( i already had the front upper brace)

Again i've not really had a chance to examine the new levels of ride quality, but, you can definitely feel a difference and the stopping ability is far superior over the standard JCW brakes.

All my comments above are aimed at a genuine write up of MY opinions and others may have other ideas, my opinions are not meant to be negative, more how i feel the car is.
I'm not looking for any criticism or questioning my reasons for having the mods done but i will happily answer genuine queries to assist others in their quest for a more powerful MINI.
I already know that for the money you can buy a blah blah car but, i want a MINI

If you were to consider this turbo conversion i would advise that you start with a more basic model than a JCW, mainly due to the fact that it makes no difference to the outcome, however, you will have spent more up front.
I honestly believe that you would be better adding the brakes at the same time and if you can stretch to it add in the suspension.


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  #18 (permalink)  
Old Mar 9th, 2009, 07:32 PM
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are you planning on tracking the car at all at knockhill or is it more just for the street etc? I'm a bit further north than you, must have been a hell of a long drive
  #19 (permalink)  
Old Mar 9th, 2009, 11:01 PM
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COuld the lower of the 2 boost settings not be changed to 17 then the light would stay off except when choosing the higher setting & gunning it?
  #20 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 12:14 AM
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One of the best write ups I've read

Look forward to hearing how you get on with the car when the weather conditions are more favourable.

Thanks

John
  #21 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 05:31 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Floof (original)
are you planning on tracking the car at all at knockhill or is it more just for the street etc? I'm a bit further north than you, must have been a hell of a long drive

If it fits in with my work rota i intend to attend a track day at some point, but, as you know the weather at Knockhill is always hit or miss and i'll only do it in the dry

Quote: Originally Posted by mikeythemini (original)
COuld the lower of the 2 boost settings not be changed to 17 then the light would stay off except when choosing the higher setting & gunning it?

Excellent idea, but, erm, well, you know, i've kinda not used the lower setting
I might opt for the removal method, but then, once the traction light is on it kinda evens it up


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  #22 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 08:21 AM
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Thanks for the write up Alan....To a degree we can change the min boost setting (probably to below the traction trigger limit), but tbh I prefer it turning the traction off (same as most modified SC Minis to)....saves remmembering to manually turn it off ,as IMO under hard driving both ASC and DSC are a hinderance on any Mini . The beauty is the traction still works perfectly when 'forced' to drive slowly ie snow ,ice , deep puddles, and is only in these conditions that it is an effective safety feature anyway. I know as weve had alot of snow down here..and for the first time ever I prefered the ASC to function, which it did everytime on my 400bhp Turbo Mini .
Induction noise is greater on the 'top mount' intercooler GTT T conversions than the 'Front mount' ones, due to the differing position of the air filter. Alot of people love to here the suck and wastegate noise. Certainly a louder exhaust may be just the ticket. BTW we are producing a 'front section silencer delete pipe' for the R53 Cooper S Miltek Cat Back . These will be on exchange...and great on the GTT Turbo Minis in particular, which are notably quieter than modded SC Cooper S's
Reduced back pressure , less weight and more sporty sound.
Best Regards Roland GTT
  #23 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 08:42 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Thanks for the write up Alan....

You're welcome

Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
To a degree we can change the min boost setting (probably to below the traction trigger limit),

Thought you could, but, i'm happy enough, i hardly drive it on the lower setting anyway, so, it would always be on

Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Induction noise is greater on the 'top mount' intercooler GTT T conversions than the 'Front mount' ones, due to the differing position of the air filter. Alot of people love to here the suck and wastegate noise

It is certainly noticeable outside the car as well, as a BT telephone engineer will confirm when he heard me going past him recently

Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Certainly a louder exhaust may be just the ticket. BTW we are producing a 'front section silencer delete pipe' for the R53 Cooper S Miltek Cat Back . These will be on exchange...and great on the GTT Turbo Minis in particular, which are notably quieter than modded SC Cooper S's
Reduced back pressure , less weight and more sporty sound.
Best Regards Roland GTT

I'll be very interested in this, please keep me updated on the progress and availability


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  #24 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 09:55 AM
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Good review

GTT, GRS, Janspeed, JCW, OMP + various other bits - 232.6bhp, 191.2lbft on 1320's rolling road
  #25 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 04:25 PM
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hi, the GTT front section will be on exchange for a Standard Miltek front section.(ie one with silencer still integral to it). If we are supplying the complete system & fitting it, then effectrivly we can fit with GTT 'Front Silencer Delete' pipe now. I have one pipe 'in hand' so can be jigged and fabricated prior to your car coming down. This means we can fit within the day no problems.
  #26 (permalink)  
Old Mar 10th, 2009, 08:03 PM
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Roland please can you reply to my emails please??

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old Mar 11th, 2009, 05:33 PM
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Hi Supercooper...I cant see an email under the name supercooper..so I dont know which email you would like an answer on.
The 2 stage boost (on low setting) allows more throttle angle with less boost, which is the preferable more relaxed mode on motorways particularly when u get to an incline. ...give it a go Alan.....less induction noise to as runs less boost up the hill..
  #28 (permalink)  
Old Mar 12th, 2009, 10:09 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by roland2003 (original)
Hi Supercooper...I cant see an email under the name supercooper..so I dont know which email you would like an answer on.
The 2 stage boost (on low setting) allows more throttle angle with less boost, which is the preferable more relaxed mode on motorways particularly when u get to an incline. ...give it a go Alan.....less induction noise to as runs less boost up the hill..

Ok Roland, it's mx _brad86@tiscali.co.uk

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