[alski]

help req,
about to start my mini door speaker install
thought i would look up how to do it.... thanks every one loads of info about, infact too much
been reading posts all morning and i am itching to get on with it
but i am confused, i have my dynamat and ready to start..
should i use foam as well to deaden / fill door?
should i make an enclosure to speaker rear using plastic pipe
are both of these ideas overkill?
speakers are pioneer ts-e176c [not amped]
from a alpine head unit [4 x 50w]

[zero_cool]

I would like to know this too as I am in a similar position

[marx87]

There is foam already there in the back for the 6 x 9's but none in the front, TBH i wouldnt like to say whether i recommend it or not, but just to let u know i replaced my full system and head unit but i had all the speakers amped. It should sound ok. Are u throwing in new wiring? or using the original?

[zero_cool]

I'm keeping the original wiring. I don't want to hijack your thread alski. Marx if you want more info on my setup it is here:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/interior-...audio-amp.html

Thanks for any advice you can offer mate.

[SteveM3]

Use as much dynamat as you can afford. I have Genesis P69 subwoofers in the rear and
had them without then with foam as a sealant before you get to the lights and I couldn't hear
any difference. Speaker components are designed to be free air so install them as such. If
you can then make some speaker adaptors from wood, mdf is fine, as it something solid to
screw into and also will help damp the installation. Can't use too much dynamat though .

[alski]

have used original wiring, note if your a facelift mini, 4th panel bolt is hidden under arm rest
you need to depress catch under soft pad to realease, i used blunt kiddies knife
found extra wire in door panel, not sure what that was for,
also be care full off puddle light wire when you lift off door skin
my tweeters fitted inside original housing, so used those wires [never fitted crossovers as not sure which wire to cut]
also found that speaker wire connector caught on window section slightly
would be less than an hours work if i had used stock tweeters, but for trip to halfrauds for crimps
and taking apart tweeter housing, also found dynamat not that plyible at 6 degrees c

with regards to foam i think you could, i may retro fit later, but only to front bottom corner
[not on speaker!]
inside door skin you will see 2 drain holes, these will need to be kept clear, i have placed mat inside door skin, and strapped additional mat over door spare/bace, these are now solid to tap
good luck

[marx87]

Quote: Originally Posted by alski (original)

have used original wiring, note if your a facelift mini, 4th panel bolt is hidden under arm rest
you need to depress catch under soft pad to realease, i used blunt kiddies knife
found extra wire in door panel, not sure what that was for,
also be care full off puddle light wire when you lift off door skin
my tweeters fitted inside original housing, so used those wires [never fitted crossovers as not sure which wire to cut]
also found that speaker wire connector caught on window section slightly
would be less than an hours work if i had used stock tweeters, but for trip to halfrauds for crimps
and taking apart tweeter housing, also found dynamat not that plyible at 6 degrees c

with regards to foam i think you could, i may retro fit later, but only to front bottom corner
[not on speaker!]
inside door skin you will see 2 drain holes, these will need to be kept clear, i have placed mat inside door skin, and strapped additional mat over door spare/bace, these are now solid to tap
good luck

I used the stock tweeters too but i fitted a crossover...not sure how itll sound without.