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| Speeding along... Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. USA Local Time: 01:01 AM
Posts: 17
Offline | Is there a better cold air intake for the MINI GP than the JCW intake without getting too extreme? I'm lookin for a bit more sound from it and a little more HP, and maybe in the future a straighter exhaust. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| MINI2 Newbie Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Luxembourg Local Time: 07:01 AM
Posts: 31
Offline | Is this just a case of taking the top off the airbox and removing the disk?? Or does this need to have the vacuum pipe removed and plugged as well? I'm confused as to whether there is a blanking plate and a flap in the jcw airbox, or just the flap?? Haven't had a chance to have a look yet (5th day of ownership). Cheers. |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| . | just the flap needs to be removed no need to touch anything else.. the supercharger noise will be enhanced and also the noise you would normally hear over 4500revs is the noise you will hear from 1rpm once the flap is removed EMPTY SPACE NEEDS FILLING.... but it has to be something that wont get me banned ![]() ![]() |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Amiga 500 to PS3 20 Years | That's what happens when you make cars for the general public. The majority of people want a quiet car. Then there's a lot that want a quiet car but that makes a noise when you give it some stick. This is what the flap achieves. ![]() It was acceptable in the 80's |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Speeding along... Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa. USA Local Time: 01:01 AM
Posts: 17
Offline | How long would you say this would take to do? Usually the less time, the less complicated it is.... Also, has anyone noticed the attachment inside the hood beneath the hood scoop rubbing or "melting" do to it coming in contact with the cooler on the top of the engine? The service person gave me the idea that this may be a common occurrence with this JWC attachment and that it will only be replaced once. |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| MCS/JCW Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: London/Nottingham Local Time: 06:01 AM
Posts: 51
Offline | Anyone got pictures of the inside of the JCW airbox, as per my earlier post not technically minded and would be good to know how where exactly is the flap, say if your facing the engine bay/airbox?? |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| GP 0380 | Guys this is dead easy. Took me about 30 mins once I had finally got lid off, rear hooks can be tricky. You cant miss the flap its at the bulkead/cockpit side of the airbox. I would read this before attempting it. Removing Flap 1. Remove the clip on the pipe leaving the airbox lid (mine was a jubilee clip, standard clip on GP is a use once item). This is the pipe going to the engine, so I put a vinyl glove over it to stop any dirt going down it.(Not necessary) 2. Lift battery termainal connection on the side of airbox lid out of the way. 3. There are two torx screws at front of airbox lid, undo these, they are intergrated into the lid, so no risk of dropping them into the engine. 4. push the lid back with pressure, it should slide back about 10mm. Then lift the lid keeping it level horizontally. As there are two clips at the back of the box which sometimes arent easy to unhook. 5. Once I had lid off I covered the pipe with another vinyl glove to keep dirt out of clean sie of filter. 6. Be careful at all times as the vacuum pipe is still attached. 7. The flap at the back opening of lid will be visible and u will be able to operate it by hand. 8. Take a look at construction of the airbox to familiarise yourself with how it works. Looking at the outside of it, you will see four screws around the actuator that operates the flap. 9. Remove theses screws carefully, as you could drop them into the engine, put a sheet or towel below the lid is a good idea. 10. Once removed, the actuator will come away from the lid. Then you get lift flap away. **(I took the opertunity to gently hoover the filter on dirty side and the inside of the airbox.)** Rebuild it now. 11. Replace the actuator minus the flap, and replace the four screws. 12. Set the airbox lid back down on the the bottom of the airbox, making sure the rear hooks catch, and tighten up the two front torx screws. Make sure you dont catch the vacuum pipe in wrong place. 13. Take the two vinyl gloves off the pipes, and reattach the pipe to engine with jubilee clip. 14. Replace battery terminal on its mount. ***Remember you will need a new jubilee clip the correct size if its a GP or factory fit JCW conversion. Can be got in any good hardware store, or Mini dealership should be able to provide one. Also jubilee clip does same job but is reuseable.*** I did this modification to my S and its made a decent difference. Made my car whine below 4500rpm again, if its on a GP or JCW heavens knows, the whine will be awesome. ![]() |
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| | #19 (permalink) |
| MCS/JCW Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: London/Nottingham Local Time: 06:01 AM
Posts: 51
Offline | PmP PmP many thanks for your pointers, they were spot on I removed the flap this evening, just come back from a drive and you can definately notice the difference in the lower rev range, the torque just allows (and feels) the car to pick up speed more quickly, and the extra noise from the s/c at low revs is a great addition, cheapest mod and glad i have done, only take 20 mins/30mins half hour to do and i would recommend it to everyone (that is applicable). |
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| | #20 (permalink) |
| GP 0380 | Excellent. Ive a JCM airbox sitting here, looking help on reversing the vacuum pipe connections that occur when upgrading to JCW airbox. Have BMW instructions, but the diagrams arent clear, cant find the vacuum pump were the connections are altered, help someone, are the below the airbox? ![]() Last edited by PmP : Apr 6th, 2007 at 05:29 PM. |
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