[Nebdingo]

Today I took delivery of my ITG JCW Filter From Minspeed. and before I go on I must say I had good service from them. and will definatley use again.

I looked at a few air filters, but I chose this as its made specifically for the JCW airbox. AND ive used ITG before with good results, and now I'm glad I did, It fits PERFECT! Also, as I ordered it from across the pond, I copped the exchange rate at the right time, and it cost me £58 DELIVERED!!

Anyway... I thought I would knock together a little guide for doing the job as I couldnt find one. I know its not the hardest job in the world, but if it helps just one person i'll be happy.

Tools Required...

1X Torx T25 Driver
1X Small pair of grips/plyers
1X Small Flatblade Screwdriver
1X Small Philips Screwdriver
2X Hands.

1, Firstly, remove the top rubber trim, this just pulls off. and move out of the way.


2, From the top left of filter, and working anti clockwise, firstly disconnect the electrical connection by pushing in the little spring clip then pulling away from the airbox.


3, Then, the battery plus terminal just pulls up out of the clips and then move to one side.


4, At the front left of the air filter theres a small vacuum hose, the connection just pulls apart. sorry for the poor picture on this one.


5, Use a small screwdriver to "pop" off the clamp on the airbox outlet as shown.


6, Now with your Torx T25 undo the two connections at from of the filter.


7, Now the filter is free of all fittings, hold the filter firmly, push BACK (1) for about half inch then lift away (2)


8, New Filter Replacement.


9, remove the one philips screw at the top of the filter then remove the filter off its housing.



10, Fit the NEW filter in reverse order of step 9 not forgeting your philips screw for the clamp.


11, now your ready to return the filterbox. but be aware of these to lugs that need to hook into the back of the filterbox you have removed.


12, Refit in reverse order from point 7, remembering to hook the filter back in place. reconnect...

a, torx
b, clamp
c, battery+ terminal
d, electrical connection
e, rubber trim

The clamp is the hardest part. easiest way I found was a small pair of grips, and clamped back like this.


13, Job done! be proud!

Finally, start your engine and gently rev up to 4500 RPM and make sure your "flap" opens at the back of the filter, then give it a road test. The whole job took about 15/20 minutes.

The car DOES feel more responsive, especially lower down the rev range. and it will now breath better. power output is "claimed" at between 5/8BHP but lets not argue over that one lol!


anyway, Hope this is of help to someone.


Regards,

[miketheman2k]

Nice guide.

Does it sound any better / noiser under full throttle now?

Did you hurt your thumb doing the install? Looks painful

You should have taken the 4.5krpm flap off while you were in there

[MartinSSZ]

Thanks, would be interested to see if ITG will supply direct since they're a UK company (based in Coventry!)

[JAMIE1131]

How about vacuuming all that crap out the bottom of the airbox

[Nebdingo]

Quote: Originally Posted by miketheman2k (original)

Nice guide.

Does it sound any better / noiser under full throttle now?

Did you hurt your thumb doing the install? Looks painful

Cant say ive noticed and "noise" difference, tho I do think the supercharger sounds more "prominant" and yes... that IS a war wound from the filter change lol!

Quote: Originally Posted by JAMIE1131 (original)

How about vacuuming all that crap out the bottom of the airbox

Twas done my friend.

[rhardaker]

Nebdingo, thanks for these very clear instructions. I've just done exactly the same as you but I also removed the rubber bug and the flap. Some things I found:

1. Very easy to do as per the instructions.

2. Be careful when pulling the vacumn pipe apart as i woundn't want to have it come off the non-airbox end as it burried in a difficult place to get at - it does come apart easily at the junction as per instructions though.

3. A bit of twisting & tugging is required to get lid off (and making sure you have it back on correctly) do to the locating pegs at the back.

4. To remove the bung just press the rubber lip from inside the airbox out of the airbox and you can slide the whole bung up between airbox and engine bay partition. This give about a 1-2 inch diameter hole for extra air to get in.

5. I've seem people say to just unhook the flap and leave it in place but i reckon it could get fouled as the hook still goes up & down. It's very easy to just remove the flap and you know for sure there will not be a problem. There are 4 screws on top on the vacum unit - loosen these and as you lift the vacumn unit up the flap just drops out (after un-hooking it). It very easy to see what to do when you have the unit in your hands. I do not see the point of removing the vacumn unit, switch and pipework as it serves no extra purpose and makes putting things back more difficult. With my method it's only a few minutes job to get back to standard if so required.

6. I put a normal circlip back on the pipe pipe as I've had a hard time before with those factory ones and it makes it much easier to take off again to clean etc. 80mm is correct size.

7. Now for the best part....the test drive.... As other people have said - seems much smoother in bottom half of rev range now. Nice noise as you can hear the supercharger whine at just about any RPM when you accelerate. Seems a more constant and linear delivery of power right though rev range.

8. I'll report back on fuel comsumption because mine is very constant at 30-31. I suspect the first tankful may suffer as I listen to the new noises and grin

9. I also must thanks Vecchio Engineering. I rang mid-afternoon and got the ITG filter 9am next morning. £46 delivered.

Hope this helps you decide to do this.

PS. My existing filter was very dirty and full of flies etc. This is after 26,000 miles and according to service book it does not get changed until Inpsection II....I've still to have inspection I (about another 4,000 miles) and another oil change before then!!!

.Richard

[Diner_Dawg]

Great post. I wish someone would do a similar guide for the R56 Cooper!

[Hugo]

I would take the flap out with electrics and vacuum.

I fitted Works Airbox with flap removed and ITG filter and it actually helped fuel economy during the week when taking it easy. Then at the weekend opening it up the fuel disappears.

[ASTON]

Thanks for a great write up. I changed mine this morning and it was a great help. i also found this to..........ITG Air Filter for John Cooper Works & JCW GP Airbox - Welcome to Vecchio Engineering - The BMW and New Mini Tuning Specialists

[r1_kde]

very good write up, was not sure how to open the box, you saved me some time. cheers.

[pepsi jcw]

Quote: Originally Posted by rhardaker (original)

Nebdingo, thanks for these very clear instructions. I've just done exactly the same as you but I also removed the rubber bug and the flap. Some things I found:

1. Very easy to do as per the instructions.

2. Be careful when pulling the vacumn pipe apart as i woundn't want to have it come off the non-airbox end as it burried in a difficult place to get at - it does come apart easily at the junction as per instructions though.

3. A bit of twisting & tugging is required to get lid off (and making sure you have it back on correctly) do to the locating pegs at the back.

4. To remove the bung just press the rubber lip from inside the airbox out of the airbox and you can slide the whole bung up between airbox and engine bay partition. This give about a 1-2 inch diameter hole for extra air to get in.

5. I've seem people say to just unhook the flap and leave it in place but i reckon it could get fouled as the hook still goes up & down. It's very easy to just remove the flap and you know for sure there will not be a problem. There are 4 screws on top on the vacum unit - loosen these and as you lift the vacumn unit up the flap just drops out (after un-hooking it). It very easy to see what to do when you have the unit in your hands. I do not see the point of removing the vacumn unit, switch and pipework as it serves no extra purpose and makes putting things back more difficult. With my method it's only a few minutes job to get back to standard if so required.

6. I put a normal circlip back on the pipe pipe as I've had a hard time before with those factory ones and it makes it much easier to take off again to clean etc. 80mm is correct size.

7. Now for the best part....the test drive.... As other people have said - seems much smoother in bottom half of rev range now. Nice noise as you can hear the supercharger whine at just about any RPM when you accelerate. Seems a more constant and linear delivery of power right though rev range.

8. I'll report back on fuel comsumption because mine is very constant at 30-31. I suspect the first tankful may suffer as I listen to the new noises and grin

9. I also must thanks Vecchio Engineering. I rang mid-afternoon and got the ITG filter 9am next morning. £46 delivered.

Hope this helps you decide to do this.

PS. My existing filter was very dirty and full of flies etc. This is after 26,000 miles and according to service book it does not get changed until Inpsection II....I've still to have inspection I (about another 4,000 miles) and another oil change before then!!!

.Richard

Hi can any one tell me?
I have noticed the vacumn pipe has come off the non air box side on my girlfriends car where dose it go??? and what dose it do?? I have looked and cant see where it should go. i am gona buy the itg filter and remove the flap etc soon can it be put back on then or will i not need it then?
Thanks Kieren

[rhardaker]

Quote: Originally Posted by pepsi jcw (original)

Hi can any one tell me?
I have noticed the vacumn pipe has come off the non air box side on my girlfriends car where dose it go??? and what dose it do?? I have looked and cant see where it should go. i am gona buy the itg filter and remove the flap etc soon can it be put back on then or will i not need it then?
Thanks Kieren

Hi, I'll try and see where mine goes. The pipe is used to open the flap when the electrics allow it to be opened at 4500rpm+ so if you are removing the flap it is not required. The trouble is you will be losing vacumn pressure as the end of the pipe is not left in place or plugged closed. I think you will lose some power because of this (I'm not totally sure but hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong).

.Richard

[alexparkes]

Good guide!
May have to get myself one come pay day!!

[alexparkes]

One thing, is there an increase/difference in noise?

[alexparkes]

Just fitted mine.

Found that it gave me more room if I also removed the intercooler cover.

Easy job to fit

Replaced the hose clip with a jubilee clip, too. I hate those standard clips.

Only thing I did do was drop the clip that holds the electrical conector on and looking for a small clip on a gravel driveway is a bit hard!

Only drove it round the villiage and noticed an instant improvement. Very good VFM!!

[Space Cadet]

I have just ordered an ITG filter, hopefully it is going to arrive tomorrow so I will be able to fit it at the weekend.

Firstly thanks for the guide, very easy to follow, have printed it out and will use it at the weekend.

It seems to be a good mod to disconnect the flap that opens at 4.5k RPM, where exactly is the flap??

Is it the small round hole in the bottom part of the air-box, as in picture 11? Or is it actually in the top part of the air-box, presumably that fits into the large oval’ish sized hole in the firewall also as in picture 11?

Excuse my questions, its just that I haven’t opened her up yet so don’t know the lay-out.

Plus also what’s the consensus of what to do with the flap and/or hose (again don’t know exactly what I’m talking about yet), should I just tie it/them up somewhere so that they still open but just don’t affect the air-box, or should I remove them altogether? (If so what actually should I remove?).

Thanks, Mark