[Aqualung]

I now have a very short commute, 2.5 miles each way, and coupled with the fact that I'm traveling every week from Tue-Thu, my car doesn't see much action (don't let the wife drive it you see ). Even on the weekend, I'm usually stuck doing soccer in town and so a tank of gas is lasting me 2-3 weeks.

I'm wondering if I should put fuel stabilizer in given the long time it is remaining in the tank? Something like Sta-bil or something?

[obehave]

No, even that light usage should be enough.

[Aqualung]

Quote: Originally Posted by obehave

No, even that light usage should be enough.

Hokay, thanks.

[Crashton]

Like has been said no you don't need it. One thing that I'd add is don't let your MINI set with little fuel in it. Condensation will form in the gas tank. When I store my Miata in the winter I just top off the tank & it's fine for 4 months it sits idle.

Chuck

[gtshnzr]

I'd always put some Sta-Bil in the fuel tank and run the engine a bit before you disconnect the + cable. It also does not hurt to change the oil before you put the car up, instead of in the spring when you take it out. Just my 2 cents.

[Crashton]

Yep, Sta-Bil won't hurt. Neither will an oil change. I'd rather have fresh oil in there & not oil with a bunch of cumbustion by products.

Chuck

[SaratogaMini]

I put my Miata away for the winter also. As far as the gasoline goes I just top off the fuel tank and that is it. No Sta-Bil. The car is only off the road for 4 months. And I do try to take it for a run on those rare warmish winter days in upstate NY.

I do Sta-Bil the fuel in my boat. The boat is out of the water for 8 months. If you do use Sta-Bil follow the directions, more is not better.

Running through a tank of gas ever 2-3 weeks should be fine. Remember to top off the fuel tank during the very cold weather to keep condensation to a minimum.

[Aqualung]

thanks guys, yup, I try not to let it get below 1/2 a tank, esp in the winter if I'm not actively driving it and running it down....and I'm going for an oil change shortly, despite having 5k miles until my service check. My dealer was nice, I had booked it for next week but they suggested holding off until mid Nov as they could do it under the warranty, versus me paying ~$75 for it. At this rate, I probably wind down the 5k until next summer (or MoT '06)

[TOGWT]

Storing your vehicle, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in hibernation. All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage.

But a little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

Vehicle Storage

• Change the oil and filter.
• Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
• Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
• Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
• Spray distributor with WD-40
• Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
• Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
• Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
• Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
• Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
• Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
• Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
• Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
• Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
• Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
• Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
• Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings

· Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover

· Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.
· Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
· Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational

JonM

[Polmear]

Quote: Originally Posted by TOGWT

[list][*]Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
[*]Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.

I know this is OT, but:
first one---VERRRRRY BAD! DO NOT replace your fluid with DOT3. If you replace, use the spec: DOT4 or better.

second one--- DO NOT forget this one

I'm not too sure about some of your other recommendations...the label on my stabil bottle says 1 oz protects 2.5 gal; why use an "oil rich" polish? why not fully compress the seals? why would you want to store the tires in an overinflated state?